Lifter tick started during road trip
#12
5W-20, in Phoenix, in the summertime?
Load that puppy up with 10W-40 or even 20W-50 (what sort of cold temps do you see there?). 20W provides perfectly good cold start properties down to 20°F (I run it year round here in NE Florida in the wife's 185k Highlander--have been for 5 years); 10W is good to -5°F...
Load that puppy up with 10W-40 or even 20W-50 (what sort of cold temps do you see there?). 20W provides perfectly good cold start properties down to 20°F (I run it year round here in NE Florida in the wife's 185k Highlander--have been for 5 years); 10W is good to -5°F...
#13
I bought it when it was 70s and intended on changing before summer, just never did. But being a high mileage motor 10w 30 should be good year round here. Ill have a new motor by next summer for sure so ill stay heaver.
#14
"before summer"? How many miles on the oil that's in there now?
#16
FWIW, 4k is 1.0k to 1.5k miles more than I go between changes. I bet the 5W-20 has broken down to 5W-10 or 5W-5 and just loading another shot of 5W-20 (not recommended, use 10w-30/40 as a minimum) would quiet things down a bunch.
My '93 Miata (15psi boost running 20W-50) always let me know when it was time by ticking like a Timex on start-up and hot idle--around 2300 miles after the last oil change.
The Mustang is more subtle, but if I let it go that long, around 2800 miles it tells me it's time...
My '93 Miata (15psi boost running 20W-50) always let me know when it was time by ticking like a Timex on start-up and hot idle--around 2300 miles after the last oil change.
The Mustang is more subtle, but if I let it go that long, around 2800 miles it tells me it's time...
#17
I'm doing a rebuild on mine. My existing 2v came out in fantastic shape, minus the broken pistons
It has about 100k miles, and I changed the oil every ~5000 and used Mobil 1 5w20 initially, but switched to Motorcraft 5w20 around 60k miles. I have always used Motorcraft filters. The cylinder walls look beautiful still and the heads look brand new inside. There's very little signs of wear in the engine. I'll take some pictures tomorrow.
It didn't burn a drop of oil before it blew. It's seem a lot of supercharged and nitrous miles. I feel like I've done well with it. Another note, it's had the bad timing chain tensioner TSB since like 12000 miles (ticking, especially at idle) and the dealership refused to fix it while under warranty. Still, the chain, tensioner and guides look ok. They just made noise their entire life.
It has about 100k miles, and I changed the oil every ~5000 and used Mobil 1 5w20 initially, but switched to Motorcraft 5w20 around 60k miles. I have always used Motorcraft filters. The cylinder walls look beautiful still and the heads look brand new inside. There's very little signs of wear in the engine. I'll take some pictures tomorrow.
It didn't burn a drop of oil before it blew. It's seem a lot of supercharged and nitrous miles. I feel like I've done well with it. Another note, it's had the bad timing chain tensioner TSB since like 12000 miles (ticking, especially at idle) and the dealership refused to fix it while under warranty. Still, the chain, tensioner and guides look ok. They just made noise their entire life.
#18
Put some 10w 30 in it. And no love. I broke out the listing device and when i put it on the back of both heads (closest to firewall) i can really feel it! Its more prominent on the ps, but can feel it on the ds pretty well. So I'm at a loss. I am going to pull the valve covers and see what i find.
Anyone know if you can pull the ds with the hydroboost in place? With it being both sides makes me thing its in the bottom end, maybe PS rod/piston and its resonating threw to the DS.
Anyone know if you can pull the ds with the hydroboost in place? With it being both sides makes me thing its in the bottom end, maybe PS rod/piston and its resonating threw to the DS.
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musnicki
Classic Mustang General Discussion
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09-23-2015 07:11 AM