Alternator
11-09-2006, 10:25 PM
#11
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 742
RE: Alternator
The "take of the battery cable" only tells you if the alternator is "shot". They can loose a diode or two and still operate, just at a much reduced capacity. Take it to your fav auto parts store and get them to test it.....tells all.
11-09-2006, 11:25 PM
#12
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 394
RE: Alternator
The "take off the battery cable" can also fry an otherwise good alternator. Has a tendency to blow diodes in the rectifier.
FYI, to calculate the requirements;
1100 Watts at 12 volts = 92 amps
(Note this is only at full load, which the amp will not be pulling all the time)
Heater/AC Fan 15 to 20 amps
Fuel Pump Maybe 5 amps
Headlights around 10 amps
Miscellaneous electrical components 5 amps or less
So adding it all up on the high side 92+20+5+10+5 = 132 amps if everything is running at maximum draw. Also, the drag of an alternator doesn't have much to do with the pulleys, it has to do with the amp load being pulled. More power generation = more torque required to supply the power at a given RPM.
FYI, to calculate the requirements;
1100 Watts at 12 volts = 92 amps
(Note this is only at full load, which the amp will not be pulling all the time)
Heater/AC Fan 15 to 20 amps
Fuel Pump Maybe 5 amps
Headlights around 10 amps
Miscellaneous electrical components 5 amps or less
So adding it all up on the high side 92+20+5+10+5 = 132 amps if everything is running at maximum draw. Also, the drag of an alternator doesn't have much to do with the pulleys, it has to do with the amp load being pulled. More power generation = more torque required to supply the power at a given RPM.
11-10-2006, 07:11 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location:
Posts: 304
RE: Alternator
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