Throttle body
#11
^ You and I will have to agree to disagree on the cam. A cam on it's own will make an otherwise internally stock 5.0 less potent IMO. 5.0's are torquey motors and a more agressive cam without the heads and intake to support it will deminish low end torque. The difference on the high end is negligible. The stock cam has a good enough profile to support a fairly stout motor, changing it only makes sense if you're going to do some good heads and induction upgrades. Or if you just want to hear some lope without any performance improvement...
Last edited by Baddog; 12-28-2008 at 06:00 AM.
#12
^ You and I will have to agree to disagree on the cam. A cam on it's own will make an otherwise internally stock 5.0 less potent IMO. 5.0's are torquey motors and a more agressive cam without the heads and intake to support it will deminish low end torque. The difference on the high end is negligible. The stock cam has a good enough profile to support a fairly stout motor, changing it only makes sense if you're going to do some good heads and induction upgrades. Or if you just want to hear some lope without any performance improvement...
lol, you take a throttle body and ill take a cam...we'll see who wins the race.
#15
#16
hmmm, i am not doing a cam yet, i am going to do the a whole heads, cam, lifters, and push rods, in a year i think. My friend was just telling me to do the nitrous as a joke so i can blow the trans and get a t5. Now i am thinking about just getting the pully's and new struts and suspension. The car is 15 and has 77k miles on and def rides way to rough. The bumps are horrible! But i want to make it faster so i am still in a dilema, speed over comfort.
#18
hmmm, i am not doing a cam yet, i am going to do the a whole heads, cam, lifters, and push rods, in a year i think. My friend was just telling me to do the nitrous as a joke so i can blow the trans and get a t5. Now i am thinking about just getting the pully's and new struts and suspension. The car is 15 and has 77k miles on and def rides way to rough. The bumps are horrible! But i want to make it faster so i am still in a dilema, speed over comfort.
#19
holley makes a good quality tb... smooth action and I agree 65mm can support a bit over stock.
If it were me I would look to the support structure surounding the powerpoint and then save up money to do other mods as a related-chunk at a time. At the point you are at esp if you are goint ud pullies get 3g alt & a good electric fan and controller... I recommend planning out your car all the way through (take the time and while you plan save $$ , knowing that you will change a few things but your overall plan should be layed out just IMO
plan out and change in related chunks for example:
-chassis
-cooling system
-induction
If it were me I would look to the support structure surounding the powerpoint and then save up money to do other mods as a related-chunk at a time. At the point you are at esp if you are goint ud pullies get 3g alt & a good electric fan and controller... I recommend planning out your car all the way through (take the time and while you plan save $$ , knowing that you will change a few things but your overall plan should be layed out just IMO
plan out and change in related chunks for example:
-chassis
-cooling system
-induction
#20
First, good luck on buying and installing a cam for the price of the TB. Second, I'm well aware that a TB upgrade alone produces little in the way of a performance gain. Having said that, with the dough one would drop to buy a more agressive cam and have it installed into a stockish 5.0 mill I would gladly take that $, invest it in what I have done to my car and show that lopey assed stock 5.0 tailights. Without the other components to take advantage of the new lift, a cammed stocker is a just a more expensive, less torquey motor. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock cam until you start making decent power which the OP clearly is not. Is the TB the best bang for dollar performance-wise? No...but it, in conjunction with all the other little bolt on parts improves the motor in a significant way. A cam without heads and better breathing usually sacks it's performance rather than improves it, that's why it's recommended to do the H/C/I at the same time while the motors cracked open to save on labour costs. Why walk, then crawl, then run? Do the cheap supporting stuff first and then go inside and take care of the expensive stuff all in one shot later on down the road as money allows, just my 2cents...
Last edited by Baddog; 12-29-2008 at 05:03 AM.
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