PJC Racing

If you have an old pushrod you can make a length checker. Cut it in half, drill and tap both pieces where you cut for 1/4"x20 thread and intall some theaded rod between the two pieces of the pushrod with two nuts used as jamb nuts. Now you have a length checker. Or you can buy one of Comps tools through Summit or Jegs. You will need to find an old lifter and convert it over to a solid lifter to properly measure (check link at the bottom). Take the measurements and convert the overall length over with the formula found on Comp Cams website http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/Pushrods/
Most pushrods come in increments of .050". So that's your tolerance.

Here is a link that will help you out greatly in this process:

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,3....html#msg38894

PJC Racing

Exactly

You could try and do the compression test without correcting the valve train but keep in mind the values you find may wrong due to the fubar valve train geometery. BTW, how did this run before you did work?

my77project

Very little data on that unfortunately. I only ran it briefly. I'm rebuilding the car, and the motor came from the junk yard. I started it up, and ran it for a little, and then tore it down to make some changes.

Could you explain why you want a solid lifter? this doesn't seem to make sense to me. When you actually use it, the lifter is going to compress a bit just like it will when you turn over the engine. seems you'd get a more accurate measure using a hydraulic... unless of course it compresses TOO much when you turn it over slowly...

*sighs* this is turning into more of a mess than I had hoped it would. so if my pushrods were completely the wrong length, could it have worn out my valve guides extremely quickly? I mean, we're talking I ran this maybe a total of a few hours.

PJC Racing

You want to use a solid lifter/ hydraulic converted to solid to make sure you have an accurate measurement. Converting one over is very easy see if your local junk yard has one.

How hard did you run it in these few hours. I would say it not likely. Did you buy the heads used? Edelbrock did have some guide issues a few years ago.

my77project

I came by the heads in an interesting fashion. They were on the engine that was in the car when I got it, but the car hadn't been put on the road. When I took the heads off there was only a very thin layer of soot indicating that the engine had been run very little. They are a few years old, but I don't know precisely how many.

most of the time it spent idling or under normal road. I reved it up a couple times, but only briefly and not ridiculously high.

A valve guide still wouldn't explain the dirty oil though. I dunno...I'm worrying about it too much cause I can't get to it to do anything for a few days. I hate not being able to do something about it when I know something is wrong. crap.

PJC Racing

Sounds like you have alot to do my77. Keep in mind you know nothing about the entire long block. At this point you may want to tear down the block and heads, this is what I would do. Yes the heads, believe me they need to be inspected, I have been around this corner with Edelbrock heads a couple of times.

my77project

Alright, spent the day workin on it, and this is what I came up with. did a compression test. Seven cylinders read w/ing 5 psi of 150. Number 3 read a whopping zero. So I pulled off the intake and head. piston was fine, and no (visible) catastrophic damage to the rings. Checked the heads, and found that, indeed, the intake valve on cylinder 3 was slightly bent. I checked everything else, and it looked normal. I'm going to just replace the valve and put her all back together, making the valve train adjustments you recommended along the way.

lol, if I had the money, I would LOVE to tear it down and rebuild it. Actually, eventually I'd like to stroke it...but I'm a poor college student, and right now I'm going to have to settle for doing what it takes to get her on the road.

Thanks for your advice et all...I'll let you know how it runs once it's all put back together.

PJC Racing

I understand not having much in the wallet and replacing only one valve, it shouldn’t be done this way but when you’re in a pinch sometimes you have to do what you have to do. At a minimum disassemble both heads and inspect everything, you may have other issues. Replace what needs immediate replacement and start saving to replace the entire valve train. When you get the heads back together check PTV and do not forget to check for proper pushrod length. Don't get too excited and start the engine before doing these checks, you may put yourself back in the same boat. BTW, what size are the valves?

my77project

2.02 The pistons are fly cut for clearance. I will double check the clearance when I put it back on. However, I suspect that the valve was bent when the heads were installed on the original engine. my reasoning here is a little complicated, but I do have good reason to think that.