t5 shifting problem-please help
#11
pull the tranny out and remove the clutch...right now the motor is out in my vert and on top of the clutch adjustment issue it had a really stiff pedal even after I swapped back to a stock quadrant, and funny part was I had to adjust the cable so it put pressure on the plate fingers and then adjust it 3/4 of an inch further, if I went to far clutch would slip. so I knew either the flywheel was under min spec for resurfacing or the pressure plate was snafu!!......when it goes back together it'll have a KC clutch I have sitting around that I know is good, you should have an 1/8 free play before fork/tob is up against the pressure plate fingers, if you have to adjust clutch so TOB puts tension on the fingers, there is a problem somewhere, often in the tranny or clutch assembly or bent clutch fork, as well as possible other things
#12
The factory quadrant in our fox Mustangs always ratchet for constant tension.
Why do you adjust for play?
I also stressed about this on my hydraulic clutched Dodge Ram. I noticed the bearing constantly riding on the fingers of the pressure plate. Those have a slave cylinder outside the bellhousing that push on a clutch fork arm, just like a Mustang. I custom made a rod that was shorter than the original rod between the slave and the clutch fork.
The bearing didn't touch until the after the first time I pushed the pedal. It also adjusted itself, just like the Mustang to constantly touch the fingers.
Another reason. I guess this is 3. If I adjust my 93 to stay off the fingers. I need to press my clutch pedal into the carpet to disengage the clutch. A bit of tension and I can shift gears, even engage reverse with the pedal 1/2 way down.
#13
I put the car up on jack stands and had a friend get in and push the clutch in while i looked in thru where the cover goes on the tranny.I could see the tob pushing in and out on the fingers.It looked to be working fine,but I dont know alot about a tranny.I replaced the fork when i put the clutch in it.I put a king cobra clutch in it,I replaced the fork,the pivot bolt it rides on,bearing retainer,flywheel,all the bolts for the pressure plate and the flywheel.I also put a billet quadrantand firewall adjuster from dynamic racing.The kit came with a steeda adjustable cable.So everything in it has been replaced.The clutch was stiff as h*** after I put all this in,but it shifted great for a couple of days then it when to shifting like crap.At this point I really dont know what to do.I was thinking about pulling it tranny back out and look to see if I might see something.
#14
he does not have a full factory set up and no a 60's mustang is not set up as such it has a Z-BAR with an adjustable rod.........if he has or for that mater if anyone has an adjustable cable, on a mustang meaning threads down on the cable end by the clutch fork then YES 1/8 inch free play max is what you should have, exactly taken from the warning instructions on my centerforce clutch install instructions..........you adjust for play because you don't want the TOB slammed up against the pressure plate constantly turning the TOB causing premature wear oh and fyi he HAS a steeda adjustable cable so my instructions on adjusting the cable end down on the tranny are correct, if he had a complete stock set up then what you state would apply, a properly adjusted firewall adjuster takes up all pedal slack and the 1/8 of play down on the fork is for pedal freeplay which inside the car will translate into 1.5 to 2 inches of freeplay which is right where you want it
Last edited by mjr46; 07-23-2009 at 11:34 AM.
#16
I also adjust my 60 stuff, yes with a zbar and a threaded rod. Just like most any car made back then, for play. Not alot but enough to keep the bearing from spinning.
Not contact but the less the better. It allows you to shift faster.
All the late model stuff, constant contact.
Not contact but the less the better. It allows you to shift faster.
All the late model stuff, constant contact.
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