Battery died while driving, won't fully start with new
09-27-2009, 03:01 PM
#11
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 44
Distributor TFI module tested bad. Then i noticed the teeth on the bottom gear were broken off mostly. I'm guessing no rotation produces no spark o.0
I put in the new Distributor and drove it to my buddy's house to get it off commercial property. I would've preferred not to, but time wasn't really with me and I needed to relocate it before they saw it there a third day.
The idle is tremendously low and is very unresponsive to the gas pedal. I assume I should rotate it far clockwise, unbolt and remove it, turn it counter clockwise, put back in, rotate clockwise... rinse repeat until the idle is respectable. Assuming it would only take 1-2 tries.
How worried should I be that the gear teeth were eaten off? The gear that it mates with inside the little hole looked pretty good, from where I was standing.
Free fix for now, but rather daunting to see the shady Oreilly part get shredded in 1 month =[
I put in the new Distributor and drove it to my buddy's house to get it off commercial property. I would've preferred not to, but time wasn't really with me and I needed to relocate it before they saw it there a third day.
The idle is tremendously low and is very unresponsive to the gas pedal. I assume I should rotate it far clockwise, unbolt and remove it, turn it counter clockwise, put back in, rotate clockwise... rinse repeat until the idle is respectable. Assuming it would only take 1-2 tries.
How worried should I be that the gear teeth were eaten off? The gear that it mates with inside the little hole looked pretty good, from where I was standing.
Free fix for now, but rather daunting to see the shady Oreilly part get shredded in 1 month =[
09-27-2009, 10:14 PM
#13
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 44
Adjusting the distributor a bunch, it still had good teeth from the sketchy drive to my buddy's house.
have it idling at approximately 1k and it feels better than i can recall as of late.
i'll look into the oil pump and see if i can test it, but the car was somewhat low on oil (has a nasty leak around the pan, some out the rear), so maybe it just had way too few of oil.
the gear inside there is immensely stronger than the gear on the distributor, to my understanding. a friend said that you can remove the dizzy gear and replace it with a stronger one, which seems good except the distributor gear is a lot easier to mess with when compared to the one that spins it, so i think i'd prefer the dizzy gear to shread if anything.
but the lack of oil might have contributed. it bleeds inconsistently, but typically 1/2-1 quart every 1 to 3 weeks
i was told by a "good ole boy" that i could just drop the pan on next oil change and squirt in some high rated silicone and then bolt it back up. my mechanic said that sounded ignorant, so not sure if i want to give that a whirl.
it's a 7 quart canton so servicing the pan is quite a task to do properly (jack motor, or drop front end)
any further steps i should take, other than playing with timing and looking into oil pump/maintaining strong oil levels?
have it idling at approximately 1k and it feels better than i can recall as of late.
i'll look into the oil pump and see if i can test it, but the car was somewhat low on oil (has a nasty leak around the pan, some out the rear), so maybe it just had way too few of oil.
the gear inside there is immensely stronger than the gear on the distributor, to my understanding. a friend said that you can remove the dizzy gear and replace it with a stronger one, which seems good except the distributor gear is a lot easier to mess with when compared to the one that spins it, so i think i'd prefer the dizzy gear to shread if anything.
but the lack of oil might have contributed. it bleeds inconsistently, but typically 1/2-1 quart every 1 to 3 weeks
i was told by a "good ole boy" that i could just drop the pan on next oil change and squirt in some high rated silicone and then bolt it back up. my mechanic said that sounded ignorant, so not sure if i want to give that a whirl.
it's a 7 quart canton so servicing the pan is quite a task to do properly (jack motor, or drop front end)
any further steps i should take, other than playing with timing and looking into oil pump/maintaining strong oil levels?
Last edited by mtoliverjr; 09-27-2009 at 10:17 PM.
09-28-2009, 10:59 PM
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 44
assuming a bronze gear might be the right choice for the distributor. I found out I have a hydraulic roller cam from the guy who owned it before me.
probably should still look into the oil pump. and perhaps a shady tps is causing the idle to flux between 1k and 1.4k
probably should still look into the oil pump. and perhaps a shady tps is causing the idle to flux between 1k and 1.4k
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