AfterMarket Seat Heat wiring?? 91 vert
#1
AfterMarket Seat Heat wiring?? 91 vert
Hope someone can help...I replaced my White Leather Sport Seat upholstery and slipped in a single heat pad in the lumbar area of each bucket seat. They work great on a direct connection to a battery so I'm ready to wire them up.
Each seat needs a 5 amp constant capability from an ignition switched source so I don't have future battery drain issue from a bonehead mistake. That rules out tapping into the lumbar pump wiring or 20 amp cigar lighter which are close. Each seat harness includes a 7.5 amp fuse so that gives a clue of power consumption.
Is there a good spot? I thought about maybe the stereo ckt since I have removed the oem amp when I upgraded my stereo which includes a remote turn on to 2 amps in the trunk (wired direct to battery). So that original ckt may have extra power capability now...
This is a LX convertible so it also lacks the rear defroster on that particular ckt...also not used is the 15 amp fuse in place for the fog lights (set up for gt/LX doesn't use that available fuse) but that would not be ignition operated anyway...
Is there a method to tie into unused areas of the fuse box? Help
Each seat needs a 5 amp constant capability from an ignition switched source so I don't have future battery drain issue from a bonehead mistake. That rules out tapping into the lumbar pump wiring or 20 amp cigar lighter which are close. Each seat harness includes a 7.5 amp fuse so that gives a clue of power consumption.
Is there a good spot? I thought about maybe the stereo ckt since I have removed the oem amp when I upgraded my stereo which includes a remote turn on to 2 amps in the trunk (wired direct to battery). So that original ckt may have extra power capability now...
This is a LX convertible so it also lacks the rear defroster on that particular ckt...also not used is the 15 amp fuse in place for the fog lights (set up for gt/LX doesn't use that available fuse) but that would not be ignition operated anyway...
Is there a method to tie into unused areas of the fuse box? Help
#3
Yep, heated seats for $69 shippped...works great!
So here is what I ended up doing (for those searching for answers):
So I had the 15 amp ckt (switched w\ ignition) for the old OEM radio & OEM amp & speakers...but I removed the load of the amp & speakers when I upgraded the stereo (6 speakers now fed off of (2) amps direct fed off of the battery). Was confident the ckt could carry the load (each seat turns out to only draw about 3.2amps/6.4amps total) so I ran the drivers side wire up the console cavity & tapped into the hot wire feeding my receiver. The passenger seat wiring also ran up the console to reach the formerly abandoned OEM amp hot wire (the hot wires were Yellow w/ stripe). I grounded both seats @ the stereo side mount screws..simple & clean. I mounted the on/off switches in the right side of the AOD shifter bezel as it was the deepest flat part to clear the switches & wiring.
I bought 2 single pad seat heat kits from seat_engineer on E-bay for $29 ea + shipping...under $70! The kits came with everything needed except the wire taps into the hot wires.
They work great...the heat @ the lumbar should hold up better than the bottom cushion location (wasn't able to fit a pad in the seat bottom because of the stitching location). Even if they last a few years, they can be easily replaced. It probalbly took me about 4 hours & 4 beers to do it...the only thing visible is the 2 heat rocker switches!
Now I did re-do the upholstery...but the heaters came in after the seats were finished...totally retro-fitted. the seats were out of the car when I slipped the pads into the backrests from the bottom, but I didn't even have to separate the backs from the bottom cushions. It was simple.
So I had the 15 amp ckt (switched w\ ignition) for the old OEM radio & OEM amp & speakers...but I removed the load of the amp & speakers when I upgraded the stereo (6 speakers now fed off of (2) amps direct fed off of the battery). Was confident the ckt could carry the load (each seat turns out to only draw about 3.2amps/6.4amps total) so I ran the drivers side wire up the console cavity & tapped into the hot wire feeding my receiver. The passenger seat wiring also ran up the console to reach the formerly abandoned OEM amp hot wire (the hot wires were Yellow w/ stripe). I grounded both seats @ the stereo side mount screws..simple & clean. I mounted the on/off switches in the right side of the AOD shifter bezel as it was the deepest flat part to clear the switches & wiring.
I bought 2 single pad seat heat kits from seat_engineer on E-bay for $29 ea + shipping...under $70! The kits came with everything needed except the wire taps into the hot wires.
They work great...the heat @ the lumbar should hold up better than the bottom cushion location (wasn't able to fit a pad in the seat bottom because of the stitching location). Even if they last a few years, they can be easily replaced. It probalbly took me about 4 hours & 4 beers to do it...the only thing visible is the 2 heat rocker switches!
Now I did re-do the upholstery...but the heaters came in after the seats were finished...totally retro-fitted. the seats were out of the car when I slipped the pads into the backrests from the bottom, but I didn't even have to separate the backs from the bottom cushions. It was simple.
Last edited by dwb91lx; 03-23-2013 at 11:41 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mrmrultimate
Texas Regional Chapter
2
09-10-2015 09:43 AM