marlyman

So what kind of symptoms would i be seeing if i was a tooth off on the install of my e303? Im getting detonation when i line up the notches on lower intake and bottom of distributor like BAD detonation loud not a popping but a BANG/POW (just one bang or pow at a time) So i advance the distributor as far as it can go until it touches my waterneck on lower intake...

I'm getting blue smoke but i keep changing between stock maf and a pro-m 75mm thats calibrated for 24# injectors, i have 24# injectors i got off ebay..when i put them on i noticed a better throtle response with the stock maf on compared to using the pro-m was sluggish an not torquey...could be cam / timing related?

Just lost power to fuel pump traced to pretty damn sure the relay under driver seat was looking at the diagram --- http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...nks-ign-ac.gif --- and i noticed maf power is tied into the fuel pump relay/power relay so could both the maf and fuel be just the fuel relay? or ? any insight greatly appreciated tryin to get back on the road!!!

marlyman

found this an was helpful prolly should search before posting ahem : )

Now this is only for fuel pump relay but still helpful


" Alright this is how you want your FP and relay wired up proper like:

Inside the relay next to the terminals, they should be labeled 1-2-3-4-5.

Pin 1 should be a Tan/light green wire, follow it out and it should splice out in 2 directions, one to Pin 22 of the computer, and one to the self test connector under the hood.

Pin 2 should be a Red/black wire, this leads to one end of the inertia switch in the trunk. The other end of the inertia switch should be a single Red wire, this splices out eventually as the main power source for most engine sensors. It should originate from Pin 57 of the computer.

Pin 3 should be a permanently hot(12v) Orange/light blue wire. This one leads out to the starter solenoid on the fender, and has a fuseable link somewhere near there.

Pin 4 should be a Pink/Black wire, that almost immediately splices out to Pin 19 of the computer and to the fuel pump.

Pin 5 should be empty.

What you wanna do is remove all the wire looming and trace them. Get rid of anything else seemingly spliced in ***** nilly. "

tinman

I would check the basic cam timing but if it's 'off a tooth' it was installed that way.
Who installed it?

marlyman

well yeah ahem im the one who put it in...so it definetly could be a possibility haha im no proffessional but ive done before an i know bout lining up the marks... i built the motor from ground up jus did the poor mans piece by piece instead of properly having everything blueprinted an there and now im payin for it hah aww >; (

just wondering what kind of like symptoms the motor would be having if say a cam was installed a tooth off .. i heard u can compensate by distributor a little bit which is i think what im doing and heard bout detonation / valve float which i also think is happening (the detonation only when i dont advance distributor all the way to waterneck)

And end all worse im getting some blue smoke out the catback goes away sometimes gets kinda thick other times most is during idle took for ride an dont think smoked to bad i been changing out my stock maf with a pro-m i got off ebay thats calibrated for 24# injectors which i also got off ebay...definetly seem a difference wit the new injectors on stock maf but I throw on the pro-m an seems sluggish...could be because timing is off due to cam being off a tooth?? IDK feels like im takin shots in the dark hoping i dont have to go in an reset rockers an get all new gaskets an uhggggggh headache but think its what needs to be done! damn it

tinman

That blue smoke you write about is probably oil past past the valve seals......

Duncan_GT

You installed the dowel pin in the cam and cam gear, correct? If you did (I'm 99% sure you have to for that thing to even run) and then lined the marks up between crank and cam gears, then it should be right. Did you possibly drop the distributor in and its a tooth off? What's your timing set at?

marlyman

Im pretty damn sure I had the cam an crank lined up as best as possible... it was a few months ago that I did it so hard to remember exactly what it was looking like...im leaning towards thecam being 1 tooth off bcuz I spent a whole day dropping in an pulling out my distributor to make sure it was done properly like fer sure fer sure no toot off no 180 out but I still have to advance the timing like all te way to the waterneck in order to not get detonation....

As a UPDATE to issues.... :

now ive been tryin to avoid doing it but I went through an pulled my heads off to go get them machined valve job maybe port but definetly valve seals. here is a pic of a air port(lower intake side) that had a good amount of oil just pooled up waiting to burn up and also ive added a pic of wat my pistons look like totally oiled up!! : ( oil definetly leaking in from those damn heads so pissd off....pistons were all brand new bottom ends only got like 20,000 miles if that...any ideas on a good way to clean up the pistons without risking damaging anything?? does it even matter that they'r all caked up?? could I have been a tooth off on cam which then kept some valves open too long or? or a simple valve job wit new seals probly fix my issue?? I'll post a couple more pics of inside the heads if helps...

Red arrows show where it was pretty oily..

marlyman

any ideas about cleaning pistons off?? : (

marlyman

Took my heads to get machined, $500 later i find out the springs werent capatible with the e303 and my valve guides an seals got totally wasted! whole reason i got the heads was cuz they were supposed to be already ready to compliment the e303 machinist said they're flat tappet springs that couldnt support the lift! such BS calld the SHAW CITY ENGINES the place got the heads from an the owner was a total dick ended up hanging up on me!

glad it wasnt rings....i posted a few pictures of what the pistons looked like ...tried scrapping as much off as i could wit a shopvac but if i have any burnt oil left on will it be a problem or will it just burn off eventually ??

bout to put the heads back on an then double check cam or just pull it out and make sure do a proper install...