07rousche 4.0

I am on here as another name but i cant remember it so, I have a 94 GT with a brand new t-5, brand new rear end with 3.73s, windsor jr heads, crane 2040 cam kit, shorty headers for a couple more days till my LT's get here, forged keith black flat tops, for now gt40 intake but swapping to truck intake. So anyways im sure im forgetting things but you get the points. This car sould not be a turd but is a HUGE turd. seems like something is soaking up all the power before the trans even... in the process of tearing off the top end right now since it likes to overheat after i replaced the rad, the rad cap, and hoses so i can check out the head gaskets just incase. If the gaskets were fine I think it would be really bad timing that may be causing the overheating and would explain it being a turd.

On the 94-95 stangs are the timing pointers??? (metal thing you set timing off of next to the crank pulley) bent out? Or did the guy who owned this car before me mess that up to?

Anybody want pictures?

projectresto83

the timing pointer shouldn't be bent out...should be close to the balancer all the way across the balancer....

Remember the 94/95's are not as fast as the foxes for 2 reasons...weight and the tune on the computer.... the foxes are lighter and the tunes are better..

Have you been tot he track or raced anyone?

88 orangepeel notch

Define " HUGE turd", post some times or something to compare it to. Will a Prius give you a run? Is it doggy on the bottom then pulls good past 3k.

dawson1112

One thing I noticed on the 94 I had was the rear control arm bushings were really soft , upon applying torque to the drive shaft the pinion would raise up and the rear of the car would feel like it was sliding out. This was putting a bind on the drive line and sucking up power. My solution was to install some new bushings in my control arms and lower the car. Lowering with some progressive rate springs , and stiffening the control arms really made a difference in the way the power was put down to the ground.
Maybe you need a new clutch. With the setup you have you should have enough power to break the rear tires loose as you hit second gear.


Check the harmonic balancer and make sure the outer ring has not slipped , with age the rubber cracks and comes apart and allows the outer ring to slip . Once this happens you can no longer use it to set the timing. Bring #1 up to tdc compression and make sure the balancer 0 is in line with the pointer. If at tdc on #1 cylinder the 0 is not lined up with the pointer the balancer needs replaced.

mjr46

without times as stated, it's hard to guess if in fact anything is wrong......when I go from a 10 sec car to a 12-13 sec car then I FEEL AS IF one vs the other is a turd then I hop in my vw diesel/non turbo then there we have the definition of TURD!!

pedalhappy

Well the gaskets were not screwed but I did find that it actually had e7 heads and they only had the whole crane valvetrain. I bent the pointer back and timing is set to 0 on tdc exhaust stroke. I can't start it yet because in destroyed the stock headers so I'm waiting for my long tubes to come in. So the E7's explain the tardiness and yes it feels like a Prius would pull it lol, I can break the tires loose the if I pop the clutch but that's it. So I realize it should be slow so I really have nothing to complain about. If my headers come in before Tuesday I'll install them and set the timing to 14 and see how it goes but my vacation is about over and I'll have to go to Italy again.so my goal is to have DSS build me a monster 408 so when I get out I can drop that sucker in

pedalhappy

Oh yea so my tablet was signed in to my real account already, guess I was putting in the wrong username but I'm roush 4.0 lol

BaltRavens

Well if it has 330 rear wheel horse power it should get down the road. That would be a 12sec car but I guess some people see 12 sec cars as turds when they run 9s, 10s and stuff. lol

pedalhappy

That was a car I used to have lol, it was a cobra that looked bad