5.0L General DiscussionThis section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 5.0L Mustangs.
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You guys are ragging on this kid for trying to fix it on his own????? I'll bet that maybe one person commenting in this thread works as an automotive tech. The rest of us had to learn the hard way and made a ton of costly mistakes along the way!!! And even the Tech makes mistakes still to this day! You guys seam to forget there is a learning curve when it comes to anything. And with experience comes the right tools. Code reader, fuel pressure tester, inline spark testers, etc. I'll commend anyone for having the ***** to get their hands dirty instead of taking the easy way out and handing the keys over to someone else. Nobody just flipped up a hood on a car and magically gets it! I've made a ton of mistakes in the last 30 years but I've learned from every one of them. Did you ever think that about 75% of the legit advice that is given on this forum is not completely understood from someone that has little wrench time? And god help the inexperienced when they have to start weeding out the bad advice just to get to the legit stuff they read on the interwebs.
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Last edited by bluebeastsrt; 07-21-2014 at 05:20 PM.
Congrats again robo, maybe you did it the long way, but you did it and you know your car better because of it. Plus it helps the next guy with similar problems because.............wait, we don't know what fixed your idle. You suck lol.
Blue...... Well said.
306 with all bolt ons, letter cam, ported E7's, T5 swap, full exhaust, 3:55's, 2" drop, and the worst paint you'll ever see or feel.
Dyno'd 300/316, 2745lbs-track scale
Best ET 12.4@108, 1.66 60ft on 8" ET Drags.
24 mpg (combined)
well you know from my initial post that what helped me in my case is most likely the iac change and not cleanup
This is the list of what i did. For others maybe something else will work from the list but thats what i did
I admit that changing iac day one could have resolvemy issue quickly but i dont regret what i ve done since now i have working parts where things can break so in theory im good for many years to come.
Not the best approach and not the mechanics approach perhaps but then again i m no mechanic nor want to become one.
Good stuff man. Glad to hear you have it sorted now!
I am in a similar boat with mine not wanting to idle at all and surges to beat hell if I hold to gas just enough to keep it running but from 500-1500 almost.
My car was abused badly before I got it. I've using the codes to track things down mostly. Some of the sensors I have tried to test with pulling codes and probing using a voltmeter have broken as I've removed the harnesses, ECU ECT sensor today for example, plus I just built the fresh engine so removing any unknowns helps when everything is different now.
Basically done except for this..
So good for you man, wish I had a nice idling car at the moment!
I got a BWD after market IAC valve from O'Reily's Auto and my idle problem has too disappeared. The one i had on there had an 180 degree plug for the wire harness too, really bad design considering the harness was mashed against the Air Duct going into the throttle body and was also pinching the IAC's wire harness. The BWD makes their plug 90 degrees, as it should be.
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