Iskwezm

I just soldered on RCA's

This is what i show for the wiring for that year

Subwoofer + Violet/green To the left front and right front subwoofer amplifiers; also brown/blue to the rear subwoofer amplifier.
Subwoofer - Green/white To the left front and right front subwoofer amplifiers; also white/blue to the rear subwoofer amplifier.

or

Red for left front and right front subwoofer amplifiers; green/red for the rear subwoofer amplifier w/fuse no. 20 of 30 amperes.
Left Front Mid + Brown Left front subwoofer amplifier to pin no. 1 of left front subwoofer; also gray/yellow to pin no. 3.
Left Front Mid - Blue/brown Left front subwoofer amplifier to pin no. 2 of left front subwoofer; also violet/white to pin no. 4.
Right Front Mid + White/orange Right front subwoofer amplifier to pin no. 1 of right front subwoofer; also white/violet to pin no. 3.
Right Front Mid - Gray/blue Right front subwoofer amplifier to pin no. 2 of right front subwoofer; also gray/orange to pin no. 4.
Subwoofer 1 + NCA No colors are available for the rear subwoofer speakers. See left and right "front mid" lines above for the front subwoofer information.
Subwoofer 1 - NCA
Subwoofer 2 + NCA
Subwoofer 2 - NCA
Amplifier Location The left front and right front subwoofer amplifiers are on each side of the dash; rear subwoofer amplifier is in right rear of luggage compartment.

newfiveoh

If your LC2i doesnt sound good the PAC harness wont either. Its just a LOC in a harness made to plug into the radio so you dont have to splice. You could try a cleansweep or different brand instead. The best solution is junking the factory HU for an aftermarket. It sucks, I'm torn over the same thing. I dont like the look of the aftermarket HU kits but I want good sound.

starbai

Thanks for this, gonna try to utilize it. I'm not sure I'm comfortabe in my abilities to solder on RCA's but perhaps using this signal with the LC2i will work better? or even a normal passive LOC.

As soon as scosche pulls their head outta their asses and releases their kit I'll be picking one up as I already have a nice 7" screen Dual Din stereo from my previous car that I can utilize

newfiveoh

Scosche has been pushing that back for a long time. I'm not 100% sure if it will come out. Last I heard it was pushed back to June/July now.

wayne613

RCA connectors are pre-amp level, so you'd have to tap/solder before it hits the amp. Like I stated previously, this can be done off the back of the radio as well. If you're ok with splicing into the factory wiring you could also do it directly off the wires from the 8pin harness instead of getting aftermarket reverse and normal harnesses to do the cut-up work.

To use that LOC, it would need to be after the amp has amplified the signal.

starbai

So what I am understanding here, the true, best way to do this is to solder on RCA connectors on to those wires coming off of the 8 pin (smallest) connector of the headunit.

Guesss I'll have to learn!

wayne613

Which is what I pointed out with the reverse harness, as I recall you didn't wish to molest you're factory wiring, yes? Otherwise not only are you going to need to splice your wiring, but if you can't find solder-less RCA terminals to use you will need a portable soldering iron that doesn't suck, as you can't just yank the factory line out to work on it. Or solder it to short lines on the bench, then crimp to the spliced wiring.

I wouldn't say it's "the true" way. There's usually many ways to successfully do something like this. Your amp has high level inputs I'd bet as well..Anyhow...Point being, after-market sound work isn't this way or wrong. Hooking it up wrong is, but not how you go about it.

Any point on those sub lines will do it (since it's bandpassing the standard 4 speaker outs), where is up to you. Radio harness spliced, buying ones to splice, tapping down the line to the LOC, tapping before it goes into the amp(s) and putting on RCA's to run to your amp, etc...

starbai

I'd assume, the easiest place to intersect then is right BEFORE the wires go into the two factory amps in the driver kick panel.

I'm going to go over the colors that Iskwezm posted and try to see if i can make sense of which ones I should tap into, before amp.

My Amp, actually DOES have speaker level inputs. It requires me to purchase a connector from kenwood for $5, well worth it if I can figure it out. I can't find any documentation online that explains what wire is what in that harness from Kenwood... its a 10 pin connetor. My guess is + and - Front L/R, and Rear L/R, and a sub input + and - .


So assuming that that harness does have a Subwoofer + and - Input for my Amp,

AND I can figure out a positive and a negative pair of 'sub outputs' I can just use some T-Taps and tap the appropriate wires.

I know in the back of the headunit which ones it is. But I hope to use Izwakm's info above to figure out which two wires I need to tap in the driver's kick panel.

starbai

Well guys, I've fixed my problem.

I completely forgot that my amp itself has all kinds of Gain, and Input controls. Including a Bass Boost feature.

All these things were turned up and on, I have no idea why, but that combined with the AudioControl LC2i, made for HORRIBLE SOUND.

Once I turned off the bass boost and started playing around with the Gain and Input control on the AMP itself. It started sounding MUCHH better.

I was then able to tweak the AudioControl unit a bit, and the sound is AMAZING! I was shocked as to how good it actually ended up sounding!

So all said and done I probably wont bother trying to find a different signal elsewhere in the car. Yea it CAN be done, and yea it probably DOES sound better tapping it before the factory amp, or behind the headunit, but for what my goals were, this definitly sounds MUCH better.

As for the 8" sub recommendation, I dont doubt it one bit. My father and i have an 8" JL W6 in the back of our 81 Corvette that sounds better than this one 12" Type-R in my trunk! But I already had the 12" sub so free works for me for now...

Thanks to everyone for the advice... but this LC2i, now that I know is working well, seemed at the beginning to be the easiest way to install this, and now that things are setup right, I know it probably IS!