1slow67

Not sure how lean. It may also be too rich. When tuning my carb on my 200 it will die if not rich enough. Mine will also die if too rich.

I can get perfect idle then when I get up to where the choke is fully open the car would die because it wasn't rich enough.

I probably shouldn't have put "sounded" in that post.

cashbgtp97

I'm watching my buddies car while he's on deployment. It's a 1967 Mustang Coupe (I don't know anything other than that). I'm still learning about it but it was having some problem. I immediately assumed it was just idling too low so I located the throttle line and turned the screw next to it til it stayed on. I've never had an older car w/ a carb, but after reading this thread i assume what i did was opened the carb up more increasing airflow at idle. will this cause further issues or is that a good solution to my problem? the only issue it had was just stalling at idle. does just fine when driving.

hope i didn't threadjack too much! just thought this was similar to the original issue! lol

-cash

Gun Jam

Nah you didnt Hijack anything this plane is empty...none of the people who replied to this back in 08 are even active members anymore. Next time just start a new thread a not revive one from a decade ago...it really chaps Rmodel's *** when people do that.

unless you had to open the throttle plates a lot its probably no issue. How may turns did it take on the idle screw before it ran okay?

I know on some holley carbs if the idle screw is too far in it will expose the transfer slot and render the idle circuit useless. It will cause problems if this is the case. If this is the case then there a problem causing a low idle issue. Example (low idle secondary to vac leak) but if it runs fine now it should be good!

-Gun

cashbgtp97

sorry for that late response, had to attend a funeral down south.

ya i googled my issue and found this thread, sorry for reviving the dead! lol

i turned it probably about 2 full turns (only turned it about 1/4 a turn each time). it runs fine now.