groho

well, finally got off my backside and ripped apart the back end of the coupe. No turning back now. Been dealing with lean, drv side was 3/8 lower then pass side at the fender. Previous owner got rear-ended and the repair work was showing it's age. Doesn't sound like much but it was visually obvious from the back. Got the rear and lower panel off, and already the car is nearly level. I'll say one thing, it sure is a PIA trying to find to find spot welds after getting through all that bondo. This is my first shot at panel replacement. Hope I get it right.

Stepman

I thought that was going to be something scary. I cut mine off to the back of the doors. I know how you feel though. Take your time with it and measure eeverything 4 or 5 times before putting it back together. Keep checking after each step. The worst thing you could do is rush it. Also keep in mind that body work is more art than anything...not everything will fit perfectly like you want it to.

Post more pics as you go.

THUMPIN455

Looks good so far, wish the cars I get were that clean when I take them apart. Like Stepman said, take your time just dont procrastinate or let things get in the way. It will come along nice if you take your time but dont quit.

Its a coincidence but I just started another project too, I need it drivable by June and really I should have finished something else first, but I need this one going soon. It isnt a Ford though, but we can see who is done first, not a contest, just a curiosity..

zmetalmilitia

Ain't that the freakin truth!

groho

update pulled the left down panel today, and got most of the spot welds tapped on the right. Should be able to finish the right side tomorrow. Noticed the body movement, load and unload, flex in the frame as I remove panels, very little but measurable. Question, currently my jackstands are under the rear end...something tells me I need to move my support to the rear subframe and remove the rear leafs to unload the rear....Correct?

JMD

Yea, you need to move the support to very near the front of the spring mount on the "frame" IMO.

There ain't much holding that rear shackle, and that will likely make things hard to line up when you go back together.

groho

Update. . . Sorry my camera battery needs recharged, no pic's this time. . .JMD provided some excellent advise. Moved my jack stands next to the front leaf-spring eye and dropped the rear shackles. both down panels are out, and trunk, rear are gutted, and put in some temp bracing supporting the rear cowl. I think my spot weld cutting bit has outlived it's life. The subframes are in excellent condition. With all the bad panels off, the tension has been released in the sheet metal and the subframes and trunk are now measuring identical. Will pick up panels next week. Pics to come when I get the camera charged.

fakesnakes

Your new jack location will make it easier and keep the body from flexing too much. It is often helpful to use a plumb bob and a straight edge to drop some reference marks and measurements on the floor of the garage. That way you know exactly where everything started, just don't move the car! Also, use your trunk lid as a guage to make sure the rear quarters don't spread. With the amount of steel you have removed, I'm sure they have shifted by now.

JMD

Huge point!

So long as everything fits right and looks right, you are pretty much ok.

I cut all kinds of stuff out of my 39, I used very little bracing, and I cut it out once it got in the way.

When I went back together, I made damn sure the doors, trunk lid, and fenders fit right before making tha comitment to weld up "solid".

There is a lot to be said about keeping thinks in the right place with proper bracing, but IMO, it is much more important to make sure everything LINES up as it should when going together. A 1/16" of an inch at the front of the fender might be a 1/2" at the back...

Don't be surprised if you have to MAKE things line up right, in my experience, replacement panells seldom fit just right out of the box.

Just be smart and take your time mocking everything up as much as practical before commiting with finish welds.