kalli

Hi all,

Wanted to lower the engine in front by half inch for driveline angles to change, but centrelink seems to be too close to engine already. I have about 1" between centrelink and oilpan and only about 1/8" between centrelink and starter ?! Something seems wrong here ?!
Car was original 6cylinder, converted to 1972 302. I have no idea if there was changes made to steering. The only parts I replaced were tierod ends to fit the new spindles i got for disc brakes (CSRP)



anyone any idea?

Kalli

OCHOHILL

I think that is a 6 cylinder center link/drag link. They are straight and connect differently than a V8 link.

You can shop ebay to see different photos. Please note that the incredibly intelligent ebay sellers list theirs as a V6 center link.

You will definitely need a new idler arm, possibly new tie rod ends and maybe a pitman arm. Sorry, dude.

Since I answered your question I am going to hijack your thread. Did you ever try the 750 carb on your car?

kalli

thanks for that will check. it's the only part on the car that I never changed and if you say the V8 version would be bent then that would make an awful lot of sense to me. I'll go and check. most of the balljoints are shot anyway, so probably no harm in changing the lot ... will have to wait a month or two though :-(

as for the carb, the edelbrock fell through since buddy had engine trouble. But I could get my hand on a used 750 holley where buddy of mine replaced base plate. not going into car for 1 month or 2, so I might be able to give that a shot ...

edit: just checked parts catalogues and yes, ya the whole steering assembly seems to be different and I do have the 6cyl type.... I'll see what i can find from there. So i'll check a bit further around.
will probably just end up calling gazier and ask them to sort me out they know this stuff inside out anyway... need to save money first. maybe i can upgrade to quick steering kit at the same time (that GT350mod ...)


Kalli

TexasAxMan

I can tell you that yours doesn't look like mine. I started with a 6 cyl coupe as well, but bought an entire new suspension for it. I believe yours is still the 6 cyl parts.

I have about 2" of clearance between the drag link and the pan or starter. I only have about 1/4-1/2" between the crossmember and the pan, much like yours seems to be from the picture. The V8 one is not bent, but the tie-rods connect to it rather than the idler arm. I think you need new drag link, idler arm and pitman arm, in addition to the tie rod ends.

Either way I don't think you'll have room to drop the engine 1/2" because of the proximity of the oil pan to the crossmember. I'd love to drop my engine 1/2" for air cleaner clearance, but don't think I can without fabbing a new crossmember.

kalli

thx for the opinion. next weekend I'll probably go under it and have another look

BuckeyeDemon

when i was test fiting the 351W w/TKO in my 69, the center link was hitting the canton oil pan at full steering throw with 1/2 drop mounts.

i didn't have the spindles/strut rods installed. the TKO is mounted as high in the tunnel as possible (cut crossmember).

i know it's a different year, but possibly a data point.

tx65coupe

I too think that those are I6 parts.

buening

Here is a pic of my 70 centerlink with power steering. Different year car and with the hydraulic ram, but you can see how it dips down. This motor is dropped 1" and moved back 1.25" in this picture in order to fit my T56 transmission. No clearance issues with the headers, steering, or starter. The stock crossmember does NOT fit and I will be making a custom and beefier-than-stock one soon. It really isn't that hard if you have some beginner fabrication skills. I was actually stopped at 1" lowering by the front sway bar because it was hitting the crank pulley with the suspension unloaded.



You can also look into getting a mini starter to alleviate clearance issues.

buening

FWIW, I have about 1/4" or so clearance between the centerlink bulge (where ram bolts through) and haven't hit the pan with the motor running.