Headlight switch keeps burning out
#11
So its clear:
The rheostat part of the switch does not feed the headlights or tail lights.
Putting relays in the front head light circuits is a good way to get maximum power to your headlights
Putting relays in for the dash lights is rediculous and IMO, should not be done.
If you continue to blow out the swtich rheostat, something is using too much amperage. Since it started after the tach and water temp guage was installed you either have a miswire or way too much candlepower (Lux) in the bulbs being used. You don't say what size fuse you're using for the dash lights but i suspect it's too big if it's allowing the switch to fry. I think it should only be 3.5 amps or so.
The rheostat part of the switch does not feed the headlights or tail lights.
Putting relays in the front head light circuits is a good way to get maximum power to your headlights
Putting relays in for the dash lights is rediculous and IMO, should not be done.
If you continue to blow out the swtich rheostat, something is using too much amperage. Since it started after the tach and water temp guage was installed you either have a miswire or way too much candlepower (Lux) in the bulbs being used. You don't say what size fuse you're using for the dash lights but i suspect it's too big if it's allowing the switch to fry. I think it should only be 3.5 amps or so.
#12
Well the only part of the switch "burning out" is the rheostat or more specifically the spring on it. Its basically getting to hot and breaking ( i can see two tiny breaks in the spring which disrupts the flow of power). So my headlights arent the problem. My wiring is the Painless wiring for a 67 mustang so none of it is original. The fuse that blows is a 30 amp which runs the headlights, dashlights and i think thats it. Im going to install my new headlight switch with the tach and water temp gauge lights disconnected to see if that is the problem. They both use LED lights so i dont understand why they would head up that switch. The part numbers for the tach and water temp gauge are 1238 and 1296 both autometer.
#14
Do you have a multimeter to see how much amperage is going through the dimmer (rheostat)? Obviously it's too much for it. Here is the wiring schematic, you only have the one wire from the lower plug, 3rd to the right going to the 12V+ from the dimmer wire right?
http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/2650-1165-00rC.pdf
If so I would try this:
QUESTIONS:
If after completely reading these instructions you have questions regarding the operation or installation of your instrument(s),
please contact Auto Meter Technical Service at 866-248-6357.
You may also email us at service@autometer.com.
Additional information can also be found at http://www.autometer.com/tech_faq.aspx
http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/2650-1165-00rC.pdf
If so I would try this:
QUESTIONS:
If after completely reading these instructions you have questions regarding the operation or installation of your instrument(s),
please contact Auto Meter Technical Service at 866-248-6357.
You may also email us at service@autometer.com.
Additional information can also be found at http://www.autometer.com/tech_faq.aspx
#15
Well the only part of the switch "burning out" is the rheostat or more specifically the spring on it. Its basically getting to hot and breaking ( i can see two tiny breaks in the spring which disrupts the flow of power). So my headlights arent the problem. My wiring is the Painless wiring for a 67 mustang so none of it is original. The fuse that blows is a 30 amp which runs the headlights, dashlights and i think thats it. Im going to install my new headlight switch with the tach and water temp gauge lights disconnected to see if that is the problem. They both use LED lights so i dont understand why they would head up that switch. The part numbers for the tach and water temp gauge are 1238 and 1296 both autometer.
#16
Does anyone have any new headlight relay suggestions? Overheating headlight switches both on the dash and the floor have always been a problem in old rigs.
#17
I went with halogen lights and installed relays to handle the load on the switch. I also made a new wiring harness because the original wiring was causing the driver side headlight to be dimmer. This made a big difference in the lights brightness.
Pictures and info:
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id15.html
You can buy a premade harness and relays here for $30:
http://www.lmctruck.com/features/fbr/FBREL1.htm
It is for a Ford Bronco but the connectors are the same for Mustangs with a single High/Low bulb.
Pictures and info:
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id15.html
You can buy a premade harness and relays here for $30:
http://www.lmctruck.com/features/fbr/FBREL1.htm
It is for a Ford Bronco but the connectors are the same for Mustangs with a single High/Low bulb.
#18
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lincolnshibuya
V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs
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12-08-2015 04:37 PM