Jeffk

Stilllll s-h-a-k-i-n

I really am at a loss. I can't figure out if it's the Pirelli P-zeros, warped rotor or something else entirely. It's in the steering wheel, not the body of the car. Even at the most intense portion of the shake my rear view mirror is still rock steady.

The tires aren't that old, maybe 5-8K on them. Some aggressive driving on them and a few triple digit runs.

rotors are factory original with 43K on them. I am seeing more brake dust on the front wheels here in the last few weeks than I have since I bought the car 9 months and 14K ago. With the front wheels up in the air if I spin the passenger side wheel I can hear light contact across approx. 1/3 of the rotation between rotor and pad.
There is not pulsing in the brake pedal when applied though.

Yeah, I'm kind of frustrated and no longer look forward to driving the car because it just irritates me but it's my daily so I have to.

crankedGT/CS

with so few miles, maybe take rotors to shop to be resurfaced next day off....cheap and simple enough.... start eliminating with easiest and most likely first.

Jeffk

I'm sorry, I didn't follow up on this one but Eric, you're correct. I took a day off and had the rotors turned. No more shake!!!

Old Mustanger

This balljoint gives you a 1/2" drop. If the OP is already dropped, he may not want this.

Old Mustanger

There is an internal disc spring that is very strong in Balljoints that will prevent any movement (by hand) until the balljoint to totally bad. But the balljoint can still be clunking at low speeds even tho you can't move it by hand.