New DSLR means new pics
04-14-2013, 08:54 AM
#4
Yup, it annoys me too. Actually went to the shop to have them cut new pipes for the new rear bumper to raise the mufflers. The shop I went to claimed that I had about an inch of clearance before I was rattling against the frame. 2, 2.5 inches is what I need to make it look right and I wasn't about to spend over $200 at a shop that couldn't get the job done. Trust me, I'm well aware of that issue.
04-14-2013, 11:25 AM
#6
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Alabama
Posts: 2,935
Nice! First tip I would say is to get a tripod.
If you want to use manual mode, this is a very, very condensed version of how. lol.
Three main settings, explained ridiculously briefly and in plain english terms:
ISO - The lower this number is, the less grainy the photo will be. Your lowest ISO should be 100.
Aperture - The lower this number is, the more "out of focus" the background will be, and the more "in focus" a small object you are focused on will be. f3.5 is likely your lowest aperture. I usually crank it up to around f9.0 for most broad pictures of cars so everything is crisp. When I am focusing on a certain part of the car (emblems, etc) I dial it back down.
Shutter Speed - This is why you need a tripod. A lower ISO requires a slower shutter speed. A higher aperture number also requires a slower shutter speed. Slower shutter speed = blurry pictures when shot handheld. I usually set my ISO to 100, set my aperture to where I want, and then just adjust the shutter speed to compensate.
There is a guide (I forgot the technical name for it) that will show you when you have the right shutter speed for your settings, so the picture will come out exposed correctly (not too dark, not too light)
Looks like this:
-3...2...1...0...1...2...+3
|
You try to get the little marker centered up with 0. You'll see it fluctuate when you change settings.
Hope that cluster **** of **** helps you out some
If you want to use manual mode, this is a very, very condensed version of how. lol.
Three main settings, explained ridiculously briefly and in plain english terms:
ISO - The lower this number is, the less grainy the photo will be. Your lowest ISO should be 100.
Aperture - The lower this number is, the more "out of focus" the background will be, and the more "in focus" a small object you are focused on will be. f3.5 is likely your lowest aperture. I usually crank it up to around f9.0 for most broad pictures of cars so everything is crisp. When I am focusing on a certain part of the car (emblems, etc) I dial it back down.
Shutter Speed - This is why you need a tripod. A lower ISO requires a slower shutter speed. A higher aperture number also requires a slower shutter speed. Slower shutter speed = blurry pictures when shot handheld. I usually set my ISO to 100, set my aperture to where I want, and then just adjust the shutter speed to compensate.
There is a guide (I forgot the technical name for it) that will show you when you have the right shutter speed for your settings, so the picture will come out exposed correctly (not too dark, not too light)
Looks like this:
-3...2...1...0...1...2...+3
|
You try to get the little marker centered up with 0. You'll see it fluctuate when you change settings.
Hope that cluster **** of **** helps you out some
04-14-2013, 12:27 PM
#7
Nice! First tip I would say is to get a tripod.
If you want to use manual mode, this is a very, very condensed version of how. lol.
Three main settings, explained ridiculously briefly and in plain english terms:
ISO - The lower this number is, the less grainy the photo will be. Your lowest ISO should be 100.
Aperture - The lower this number is, the more "out of focus" the background will be, and the more "in focus" a small object you are focused on will be. f3.5 is likely your lowest aperture. I usually crank it up to around f9.0 for most broad pictures of cars so everything is crisp. When I am focusing on a certain part of the car (emblems, etc) I dial it back down.
Shutter Speed - This is why you need a tripod. A lower ISO requires a slower shutter speed. A higher aperture number also requires a slower shutter speed. Slower shutter speed = blurry pictures when shot handheld. I usually set my ISO to 100, set my aperture to where I want, and then just adjust the shutter speed to compensate.
There is a guide (I forgot the technical name for it) that will show you when you have the right shutter speed for your settings, so the picture will come out exposed correctly (not too dark, not too light)
Looks like this:
-3...2...1...0...1...2...+3
|
You try to get the little marker centered up with 0. You'll see it fluctuate when you change settings.
Hope that cluster **** of **** helps you out some
If you want to use manual mode, this is a very, very condensed version of how. lol.
Three main settings, explained ridiculously briefly and in plain english terms:
ISO - The lower this number is, the less grainy the photo will be. Your lowest ISO should be 100.
Aperture - The lower this number is, the more "out of focus" the background will be, and the more "in focus" a small object you are focused on will be. f3.5 is likely your lowest aperture. I usually crank it up to around f9.0 for most broad pictures of cars so everything is crisp. When I am focusing on a certain part of the car (emblems, etc) I dial it back down.
Shutter Speed - This is why you need a tripod. A lower ISO requires a slower shutter speed. A higher aperture number also requires a slower shutter speed. Slower shutter speed = blurry pictures when shot handheld. I usually set my ISO to 100, set my aperture to where I want, and then just adjust the shutter speed to compensate.
There is a guide (I forgot the technical name for it) that will show you when you have the right shutter speed for your settings, so the picture will come out exposed correctly (not too dark, not too light)
Looks like this:
-3...2...1...0...1...2...+3
|
You try to get the little marker centered up with 0. You'll see it fluctuate when you change settings.
Hope that cluster **** of **** helps you out some
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