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Lets Talk Intake 302 V8

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Old 05-23-2010, 04:22 PM
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Gregski
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Default Lets Talk Intake 302 V8

So I am buttoning things up nicely on my '76 302 V8, next to go on is the intake manifold (part # D50E-9425-GA). You all helped me before with similar questions so you shouldn't even flinch when reading these.

What are the little pieces for in the middle of the second gasket picture below?

Does the intake gasket go on dry or do I put some concocktion on it, if so what?

What's the sheet metal cover on it's belly for, can you take it off, if so how?

The small hole in the middle in addition to routing some exhaust back in, to be burned again, is it to balance the exhaust flow in the two heads?

Aside from not having the EGR port on the top do the First Generation 60's 2V intakes flow better than the Mustang II era ones?







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Old 05-23-2010, 10:38 PM
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vonkysmeed
 
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What are the little pieces for in the middle of the second gasket picture below?
The second set look to be for either a 302 or a 351 and would use different valley gaskets, but he rest would be the same or similar on either engine.

Does the intake gasket go on dry or do I put some concocktion on it, if so what?

Depends on who you are. I have put mine on using a coating of antisieze on my gaskets (head, intake and exhaust) to ease in disassembly and fill any minor scuffs on the surfaces since I have had to take engines apart that had this done and those that did not. Much easier with the antisieze.

What's the sheet metal cover on it's belly for, can you take it off, if so how?
Leave it alone. It is there to help with the airflow I believe. It is not an optional part that can be removed.

The small hole in the middle in addition to routing some exhaust back in, to be burned again, is it to balance the exhaust flow in the two heads?
Again, that set has been made for multiple engines and may not use all features. This is on the intake and would not pull exhaust from the other side of the head. It is also on the Water passages between the block and the head. Read the instructions that come with the gaskets, they will tell you if you can remove them or to just leave them in place.

Aside from not having the EGR port on the top do the First Generation 60's 2V intakes flow better than the Mustang II era ones? If you are looking for better flow, Look for a smog legal intake from Edelbrock or similar. I believe it is model 2121 if you do smog your car. It is at the cut off and am not sure that if 75 has the same free ride that my 73 car has.

Good Luck.
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Old 05-24-2010, 11:12 PM
  #3  
Gregski
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Apparently my questions 1 and 4 are related:

What are the little pieces for in the middle of the second gasket picture below?

"They are to open or block the heat riser passages. If you live in a warm area, block 'em off. If you're going to run it in the cold, leave 'em open." Thanks 23Alt from another forum.

The small hole in the middle in addition to routing some exhaust back in, to be burned again, is it to balance the exhaust flow in the two heads?

The small port in the middle is an exhaust crossover to help atomize the fuel better when cold, nearly all factory intakes have it. If you live in a warmer climate, you can block off that crossover and help performance slightly by keeping the intake charge cooler, so goes the theory anyway.

The exhaust "crossover" or "heat riser passage" is not there for the EGR. It is there to heat the carb to prevent icing and help engine warm up. When the EGR came along they just taped into the crossover passage.
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:48 AM
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kalli
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on that note. if you buy an aftermarket aluminum intake, you're better off blocking it off as well (again, you don't want the heat in there). personally i'd always block them off if it wasn't a daily driver for the winter.

since it wasn't covered yet. I wouldn't go near those cork gaskets for front and back. use a quarter inch bead of silicone. the cork gaskets are prone to slip and leak. anyone who used them before will move to silicone after that.
Since you never changed an intake (i guess), it is possible to torque the bolts according to spec in the sequence. once done, redo it over and over again until no bolt turns anymore at the given torque. It can take up to 4 or five times going round until this thing is properly seated.
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Old 07-08-2010, 09:06 AM
  #5  
Gregski
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Default intake manifold going back on

well it's been a while, but after a couple detours, like learning how to weld, and building my own engine test stand, I finally got back to matters at hand, so here's a picture update of the intake manifold going back on, and don't be afraid to visit my web page where you can see more pictures of this project, and thanks for looking and your comments

Small Block Ford 302 V8



look at all the crud that came out when I pressure washed the water passage



cleaning up the gasket surface



someone gave me a great tip to use four studs as guides, see if you can spot them



I used Permatex Ultra Copper RTV Silicone, just because that's what I had left over, not sure I dabbed it right, you be the judge.
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