Change brake fluid or just bleed?
#1
Change brake fluid or just bleed?
Next week I'm picking up my almost new 05 GT (8200 mi), so next weekend I'll be at the track. I've read alot about the S197's brakes fading pretty quick, so I order some Hawk pads and some ATE Super Blue. My question for all you more experienced racers is this:
Do I completely swap the brake fluid before I hit the track or do I just bleed them after and replace with the Super Blue?
Thanks
Do I completely swap the brake fluid before I hit the track or do I just bleed them after and replace with the Super Blue?
Thanks
#2
RE: Change brake fluid or just bleed?
Definitely, completely bleed it and replace totally with the new fluid. Brake fluid should be changed out every couple of years anyway, and you'll get much stronger braking as a result.
#4
RE: Change brake fluid or just bleed?
replace the fluid and the pads before going to a road coarse. The stock pads will not hold up to the intense heat of track braking and start to fade. The DOT 4 fluid needs to be completely flushed throught the bleeders, no mixing. This I believe is the most important part of tracking, stopping when you want to.
I ran with Hawk Blue pads, but wanted to buy Hawk HT-10 pads( they were out). After the event change back to the staock pads for daily driving.
I ran with Hawk Blue pads, but wanted to buy Hawk HT-10 pads( they were out). After the event change back to the staock pads for daily driving.
#5
RE: Change brake fluid or just bleed?
Most guys that do HPDE stuff on a regular basis completely bleed the system with new fluid every year. Switching between the ATE blue & gold makes it easy to know when you're done.
And it's good stuff - I spent a weekend at Beaverun in my '96 Cobra vert with just Hawk HP+ and ATE fluid. Twice a lap to 110. Zero brake fade after 170 miles on the track. I know it's notan '05, but it's every bit as heavy!
And it's good stuff - I spent a weekend at Beaverun in my '96 Cobra vert with just Hawk HP+ and ATE fluid. Twice a lap to 110. Zero brake fade after 170 miles on the track. I know it's notan '05, but it's every bit as heavy!
#7
RE: Change brake fluid or just bleed?
Not exactly on the subject, but a huge improvement to your brakes would be some cooling ducts, like from Quantum. Mine are on their way, along with Hawk pads and some Valvoline synthetic dot4. My first event is coming this weekend @ Buttonwillow.
#8
RE: Change brake fluid or just bleed?
Gentlemen,
I have several brake questions.
[ul][*]Is there any real differences in brands od DOT4 fluid? Mine states the boiling point of 311 degrees F.[*]I've been to Buttonwillow 2 times. I have a pretty good setup, but am still learing to drive the car, so probably not going fast enough to really heat things up.[*]I have 13" Cobra front rotors with Hawk HP+ pads. The rears are from an '88 MK VII. I can't find anyone that supports better pads. Someday I will be able to go faster and will need more braking. any suggestions?[/ul]
Thanks
I have several brake questions.
[ul][*]Is there any real differences in brands od DOT4 fluid? Mine states the boiling point of 311 degrees F.[*]I've been to Buttonwillow 2 times. I have a pretty good setup, but am still learing to drive the car, so probably not going fast enough to really heat things up.[*]I have 13" Cobra front rotors with Hawk HP+ pads. The rears are from an '88 MK VII. I can't find anyone that supports better pads. Someday I will be able to go faster and will need more braking. any suggestions?[/ul]
Thanks
#9
RE: Change brake fluid or just bleed?
First off what kind of car and brake setup are you running?
I have an 89 coupe w/ PBR dual-piston calipers up front, sn95 discs in the back and my car weighs 3175 w/ driver.
I road race in TX and I run Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid. It has a dry boiling point of 480 and a wet boiling point of 330. I typically flush the brake system before each event with new fluid ($6 / liter). This has worked great for me and I have never had issue.
I am assuming your car is a street / track car.
Depending on your caliper you should have a ton of brake pad options. If you are going to be stepping up your braking power I would suggest a second set of pads and rotors for dedicated track time. I wouldn't try to find something that will work for both street and track.
If you like Hawk the HT10 is an option. I currently run EBC yellow stuff and PFC01, depending on the track I am driving. I also know alot of people that run Carbotech XP10's and love them.
Let me know some details on your car and what you want to accomplish in braking and I can help give a more precise recommendation.
I have an 89 coupe w/ PBR dual-piston calipers up front, sn95 discs in the back and my car weighs 3175 w/ driver.
I road race in TX and I run Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid. It has a dry boiling point of 480 and a wet boiling point of 330. I typically flush the brake system before each event with new fluid ($6 / liter). This has worked great for me and I have never had issue.
I am assuming your car is a street / track car.
Depending on your caliper you should have a ton of brake pad options. If you are going to be stepping up your braking power I would suggest a second set of pads and rotors for dedicated track time. I wouldn't try to find something that will work for both street and track.
If you like Hawk the HT10 is an option. I currently run EBC yellow stuff and PFC01, depending on the track I am driving. I also know alot of people that run Carbotech XP10's and love them.
Let me know some details on your car and what you want to accomplish in braking and I can help give a more precise recommendation.
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