2000BlkGtConvgobucks

I am attempting to fix a automatic 2001 mustang v6 with 100,000 miles that will not start. I’m not a novice to mustangs, I have owned 3 GT’s myself that stretches over the past 12 years. The problem began with the engine periodically not starting. The car would start and be driven around all day, but then the next morning or afternoon, it would not start again. The very next day the car would run fine again. This continued for a couple weeks until eventually it would not start at all and the battery ran dead after several hours of failed diagnosis. I own an ecm scanner so I checked the car a couple times during the period that the car was partially working and the only codes it was throwing were egr, and a misfire (both common mustang bs). The car also has a “check gas cap” mil as well. The car is my girlfriends and she said that it has been on since she has had the car, I figure that it is unrelated. I attempted to jump the car a week later with my mustang and the car would not start. I checked for spark, which I had been getting before when the car was turning over but not starting, and now there was no spark. I immediately swapped out the single coil pack thinking that was the problem, but it wasn’t and the car still was not starting, nor was it getting spark (the coil was receiving both battery and ignition power). We finally decide to have the car towed by AAA to have one of their shop techs look at it. They come out to tow the car and the guy wants to try jumping it even after I told him I already had my car hooked up to it for 15 minutes. Low and behold the thing starts right up? The car was running really rough, but was completely drivable. We drove it to AAA, parked it and the next day they tell us that it was the fuel pump driver module that was malfunctioning. I went and pulled a module from the local junkyard and went to get the car. When we got to the car it started right up before I replaced the module. We drove home, then replaced the module and it started right up and ran fine for 2 entire days of running stop and go errands. Now the car is dead again. There is no spark again and I am about 95 percent sure the fuel pump is not turning on now, though I believe it was before. I’m gonna get under it with a stethoscope tomorrow to verify. I have checked all fuses and relays minus the “new” fuel pump module, only because I’m not sure how, or if you can check it. I’m now thinking it might be something related to ignition or the vats system, maybe even computer related. I’m at a total loss, I have put so many hours into this and have essentially gotten nowhere. Is it possible that the car could’ve actually blown 2 modules in a matter of a few days? Also. If the fuel pump is actually failing right now, I should still have spark, right? There isn’t a pressure sensor that would shut down spark other than the emergency popup button in the trunk? Anyways, any help would be greatly appreciated. I hope to hear some opinions, thanks in advance.

2000BlkGtConvgobucks

I just wanted to update on my no fuel/no spark situation. I hadn’t done much research when I first posted, I have made much more progress now. I’m confident that I have narrowed it down to a problem with the eec, I plan on testing it tomorrow, but was hoping someone else out there has had a similar problem. I have now checked resistance in every fuse under the hood and under the dash just to confirm my first continuity test that I performed a few days ago. I have replaced the ccrm and the crank position sensor even though the old ones were testing ok, I figured it was worth a shot and I can just take them both back whenever I figure this thing out. I have checked and found that the fuel pump is not turning on, but yet I do have power on both leads leaving the fpdm. So basically, I have power at the fuel pump, but im not sure if im getting the signal from the computer to turn it on. I still have no spark to any cylinders. I do have power to the coil. I have power out of the ccrm to the eec. I have ignition power to every point that I checked so far, which is just about everywhere (all sensors, relays, radio, pw windows/wipers, etc.). My theft light behaves normally and turns off a couple seconds after turning the key cylinder to accessories. I’m at a complete loss here unless the problem is in fact the computer, any sort of help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Mark

Daehawk

Have no idea myself but hope someone responds with some advice soon. Good luck!

PNYXPRESS

If the car cranks over but there is sporadically no spark and the fuel pump works some of the time I would start tracing wires looking for a short or grounding issue. Where do you park the car? Is it open to critters like squirrels?

2000BlkGtConvgobucks

I just wanted to wake this thread up one more time before i potentially shoot myself in the face and take the car to the dealership. Thank you for the replies btw. Yes, the car is parked on the street and we have squirrels everywhere, that is something that i had not considered, especially since it happened in the winter when it would have been a nice warm spot. Either way, the car has been sitting since the last post, i have not been able to look at it out of complete frustration. Luckily it is our 3rd car between my girlfriend and i so transportation hasn't forced any sort of irrational decisions, although moving the car across the street back and forth due to tow enforced street sweeping has been annoying as ****! So, please please please feel free to throw any ideas my way if you have any. Also, i haven't taken any cars to a mechanic in over 10 years nor has my family because they have always had me, lol. If anyone knows of anybody that really knows mustangs in the columbus ohio area, please let me know. I really don't want to go to the dealership, ive never had a good experience there, cant even buy parts half the time with out some sort of frustration. Thank you in advance.

corker

I'll try to provide some direction here. First off, I am not sure if the 2001 Mustang has the electronic return-less fuel system, meaning there is no return fuel line to the tank. The PCM controls the pump speed by pulsing the pump ground to the pump driver module based on a fuel pressure sensor feedback signal.
Please verify you have no spark - take a test light and hook one lead to battery negative. Remove a plug wire from the coil pack and stick the other end in and around the coil plug opening while cranking the engine. If no spark, remove another wire and check that coil plug opening for spark. If spark, we will move to fuel pump testing. If no spark, check your tach while the engine is cranking (this doesn't work for all cars) if your tach registers RPM while the engine is cranking, then your crank sensor is good. I know you replaced the crank sensor. Let's just start from the beginning and work forward. You will need a good wiring diagram to move forward, but first do the above things and report back.
Thanks,
Corky