2005-2009 S197 Appearance Section For all appearance mods to the 2005-2009 S197's

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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 01:46 PM
  #1  
torchredv6's Avatar
torchredv6
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Default wheels and lowering

hey guys, i'm a newbie on this site, found it yesterday and i spent hours looking through some threads, great website.

Anyways, i have a small problem that needs to be solved, i have an 05 v6 and i just bought the Eibach sport plus lowering kit, which lowers the car 2'' rear and 1.6'' at the front.

My problem is that i'm planning to buy the black machined 2010 GT500 replicas from american muscle, and my head is twisting i don't know if i should get the 19'' or 18''.

I wanted to ask you gentlemen if i could fit the 19's with the lowering kit, or is it too much?

Also, i really would like to see a similar setup from your cars, lowered with these wheels, please specify if they are 19'' or 18''.

Thank you i really appreciate this.

Yeah i'm really **** when i'm buying things internationally
Old Jun 4, 2010 | 03:57 PM
  #2  
D'prived's Avatar
D'prived
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My opinion is if you are going to lower it I would stick with the 18".
Old Jun 4, 2010 | 09:33 PM
  #3  
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Misbehavin
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You'll have a much better tire selection with the 18" wheel. There just isn't much out there for a 19" wheel. Most guys with GT-500's that had 19" wheels used to replace the wheels when their first set of tires were worn out for that very reason.

Don't forget to pick up an adjustible panhard bar as the rearend will likely be offcenter after lowering. You'll also need to get camber plates or camber bolts and have a front end alignment done. You'll probably want to replace the shocks and struts with those springs as well, as that's a fairly large drop and the spring rates are dramatically different from the stock ones.
Old Jun 4, 2010 | 09:43 PM
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torchredv6
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Originally Posted by Misbehavin
You'll have a much better tire selection with the 18" wheel. There just isn't much out there for a 19" wheel. Most guys with GT-500's that had 19" wheels used to replace the wheels when their first set of tires were worn out for that very reason.

Don't forget to pick up an adjustible panhard bar as the rearend will likely be offcenter after lowering. You'll also need to get camber plates or camber bolts and have a front end alignment done. You'll probably want to replace the shocks and struts with those springs as well, as that's a fairly large drop and the spring rates are dramatically different from the stock ones.
yeah that's what i was afraid of, i bought the lowering kit for about 490$, and the camber plates were about 300, i didn't have that money to spend at the time, but how will it affect the car if i drive around with just the springs and the roll bars for a while, how different is it from stock beside looks, and how will having the stuff you mentioned differ from not?

I'm sorry ut when it comes to suspension i'm clueless
Old Jun 4, 2010 | 10:00 PM
  #5  
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CutterWolf
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With that kit your can run anything from 18" to 20"s with out any issues what so ever with rubbing. I know a lot of people who did not need camber plates or panhard bar after lowering it with that kit and are still running on stock shocks and struts. So don't feel like you have to get all that stuff right away. Sure they are nice and all and will improve on the ride but they are not needed if you can't swing it cost wise right now.

Last edited by CutterWolf; Jun 4, 2010 at 10:08 PM.
Old Jun 4, 2010 | 10:11 PM
  #6  
Misbehavin's Avatar
Misbehavin
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Originally Posted by torchredv6
yeah that's what i was afraid of, i bought the lowering kit for about 490$, and the camber plates were about 300, i didn't have that money to spend at the time, but how will it affect the car if i drive around with just the springs and the roll bars for a while, how different is it from stock beside looks, and how will having the stuff you mentioned differ from not?

I'm sorry ut when it comes to suspension i'm clueless
I'm not sure what you're referring to by roll bars...

I haven't personally ridden in a vehicle with those springs, without appropriate shocks, and definitely aren't familar with them in a V6. However the dampening will not feel heavy enough, and the car feels bouncy if you're using the stock shocks and struts. At least it does to me, and those I know who have used those springs.

I will say that if all you were wanting to do was to get the car aligned, the camber plates are overkill. Camber bolts would have run around $40-50, and that's what the factory shop manual even recommends when servicing.

Last edited by Misbehavin; Jun 4, 2010 at 10:13 PM.
Old Jun 4, 2010 | 10:34 PM
  #7  
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torchredv6
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thanks for your help guys, i'll have the kit in my hands in the next few days, i'm going to order the wheels in about 2 weeks, i'm leaning towards the 19's, i just love the look of these, i haven't seen them in person but on pictures the 18's are just a little too small, that 1'' does magic in my opinion, but when i order the wheels i'm going to take the other stuff as well, just to be on the safe side.

Thanks a bunch for your responses, i have one more question though, just buying the kit and installing without the camber adjustments, does it have any severe consequences ?
Old Jun 5, 2010 | 07:48 AM
  #8  
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Mike Maples
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Originally Posted by torchredv6
Thanks a bunch for your responses, i have one more question though, just buying the kit and installing without the camber adjustments, does it have any severe consequences ?
I also recommend the 18's mainly for tire selection options and because I prefer some sidewall.



As for the camber after lowering...you will probably have about -2 to -2.5 degrees of negative camber after lowering. This will make the car handle great but will wear the inside of the front tires over time. You will have to be sure the toe is reset or it will grab every crack in the road and wear the tires in record time.

Camber bolts will get you back to maybe -1.25 to -1.5 degrees of negative camber which is the max that you can run and be to factory specs. The recommended factory spec is -.75 degrees with a +/-.75 degrees of tolerance so anywhere between 0 and -1.5 degrees is within spec but that is a very wide tolerance.

I used the Steeda Billet Plates with shims and with the max positive camber shim in place I'm running -.75 on the left and -.625 on the right wich is just about as close to perfect as I can get.
Old Jun 5, 2010 | 08:10 AM
  #9  
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torchredv6
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is it ok for me to use the steeda billet plates with this, i read somewhere that it's not recommended to use different brands for this, your car looks great btw,what lowering kit do you have ?
Old Jun 5, 2010 | 08:43 AM
  #10  
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Mike Maples
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Originally Posted by torchredv6
is it ok for me to use the steeda billet plates with this, i read somewhere that it's not recommended to use different brands for this, your car looks great btw,what lowering kit do you have ?
I have the Roush Lowered Suspension. Mixing brands on the springs and struts may be a bit of a no-no but the camber plates are a stand-alone proposition so no worries about them being Steeda. The thing I like about the plates and shims is, once they are set right they can"t move. Even if you hit a curb or take a pothole, these plates are fixed in place.
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