All about oil...........
05-13-2006, 03:48 AM
#11
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location:
Posts: 782
RE: All about oil...........
OH boy.............. Here we go.
The number 1 cause of oil breakdown is "shear" to the molecular structure of an inferior base stock motor oil. Synthetics came about because the major oil companies use inferior base stocks. Hence, they began to alter the molecular structure to improve lubrication by reducing shear.
Base stocks from major suppliers come in 2 catagories.... napthenic and aromatic, both are meant to be refined to gasoline, after refining, the by-product is where your motor oils come from. PAO's are polyalphaolefins, these are what are called synthetics, they do a better job, but not the best, as they are still enhanced from inferior base stocks.
Buy an oil that is "hydrocracked", and destined to be a lubricant out of the ground, not a byproduct of refining. These products will not only protect your motor, but also, give you extended oil changes (15 to 25K) A quality mineral base stock motor oil, even when dirty, will give you better protection, than most synthetics out of the bottle.
The majors (yes the ppl screwing you at the pumps) want you to change every 3000, they've drilled the message home, along with the advantages of synthetics. It's all marketing. What do you think MOBILE 1 would cost, if they didn't pay for commericials 24/7, shoving it down everyone's throat ?
Do your research, and buy the best.(it isn't the "name" brands) Do you see MEGUIARS or MOTHER's, on TV, it's Turtle Wax, Eagle One, Armorall, etc.
WOW.................. I'm tired.
The number 1 cause of oil breakdown is "shear" to the molecular structure of an inferior base stock motor oil. Synthetics came about because the major oil companies use inferior base stocks. Hence, they began to alter the molecular structure to improve lubrication by reducing shear.
Base stocks from major suppliers come in 2 catagories.... napthenic and aromatic, both are meant to be refined to gasoline, after refining, the by-product is where your motor oils come from. PAO's are polyalphaolefins, these are what are called synthetics, they do a better job, but not the best, as they are still enhanced from inferior base stocks.
Buy an oil that is "hydrocracked", and destined to be a lubricant out of the ground, not a byproduct of refining. These products will not only protect your motor, but also, give you extended oil changes (15 to 25K) A quality mineral base stock motor oil, even when dirty, will give you better protection, than most synthetics out of the bottle.
The majors (yes the ppl screwing you at the pumps) want you to change every 3000, they've drilled the message home, along with the advantages of synthetics. It's all marketing. What do you think MOBILE 1 would cost, if they didn't pay for commericials 24/7, shoving it down everyone's throat ?
Do your research, and buy the best.(it isn't the "name" brands) Do you see MEGUIARS or MOTHER's, on TV, it's Turtle Wax, Eagle One, Armorall, etc.
WOW.................. I'm tired.
05-13-2006, 04:10 AM
#12
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location:
Posts: 298
RE: All about oil...........
And people say Lejay doesn't have anything of value to offer. Maybe they should read more. BTW Keylime was hilarious. I don't care who you are that had me laughing for a while. Even if it did come at someone's misfortune.
05-13-2006, 05:02 AM
#13
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location:
Posts: 86
RE: All about oil...........
You know the lingo, but..ehhh...sorry but Castol isn't going in my Stang for 15-25k miles before a change. And yes, Castol is a hydrocracked oil. Even in BMW's with a suggested oil change every 12-15k miles with a ACEA-3 or BMW LL01/LL98 certified oil, ie BMW, Castrol 0W's from Germany, etc, extensive oil sampling has shown that breakdown of the oil occurs at 10,000 miles, after that excessive wear occurs.
Mobil 1 is just fine as a PAO synthetic.
For the record, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple are Group IV PAO synthetics
Castrol, Quaker State, Penzoil and Valvoline "synthetics" are Group III hydrocracked oil
Redline is a Group V PolyEster based oil
What does this mean to you? Not much. There is a lot of science behind all of this, a great deal of certifications and mumbo jumbo that doesn't mean much to the average joe, unless you are an Amsoil dealer trying to make a sale...heh.
In essence, pick the oil of your choice, change it at the interval you need to based on your driving.
Most of us fall into the "severe service" category of driving, which is frequent stop and go, driving at substained highways speeds in hot weather, dusty conditions or frequent short trips. With this in mind, 3000 mile changes are a good thing.
Mobil 1 is just fine as a PAO synthetic.
For the record, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple are Group IV PAO synthetics
Castrol, Quaker State, Penzoil and Valvoline "synthetics" are Group III hydrocracked oil
Redline is a Group V PolyEster based oil
What does this mean to you? Not much. There is a lot of science behind all of this, a great deal of certifications and mumbo jumbo that doesn't mean much to the average joe, unless you are an Amsoil dealer trying to make a sale...heh.
In essence, pick the oil of your choice, change it at the interval you need to based on your driving.
Most of us fall into the "severe service" category of driving, which is frequent stop and go, driving at substained highways speeds in hot weather, dusty conditions or frequent short trips. With this in mind, 3000 mile changes are a good thing.
05-13-2006, 05:28 AM
#14
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Apr 2006
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Posts: 782
RE: All about oil...........
Very good reply, a little on the arrogant, like............... I'm gonna get you,........... but, I really like it !
NO, I'm not an amsoil dealer. SHEESH, you hurt my feelings.
Did I even suggest Castrol to you ?
But, hey, fire away. I love it !!!
While you are quoting all of your ACEA-3, and rambling mumbo jumbo, whatever.......
Type up........... ALMASOL or MONOLEC, hit search,........... read for awhile, make notes, and get back to me.
castrol............. sheeeeesh!!!
Do you have a nightjob @ BK ?
NO, I'm not an amsoil dealer. SHEESH, you hurt my feelings.
Did I even suggest Castrol to you ?
But, hey, fire away. I love it !!!
While you are quoting all of your ACEA-3, and rambling mumbo jumbo, whatever.......
Type up........... ALMASOL or MONOLEC, hit search,........... read for awhile, make notes, and get back to me.
castrol............. sheeeeesh!!!
Do you have a nightjob @ BK ?
]
05-13-2006, 01:31 PM
#17
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location:
Posts: 619
RE: All about oil...........
All you ever wanted to know about oil and then some: www.bobistheoilguy.com
I use Motorcraft 5W-20 and FL-820 oil filters with a 3000 mile change interval.
Mike
I use Motorcraft 5W-20 and FL-820 oil filters with a 3000 mile change interval.
Mike
05-13-2006, 04:59 PM
#19
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location:
Posts: 737
RE: All about oil...........
I changed mine last week for the first time(@3k)...
prefilled the filter for minimal 'dry start'(the mustangs filter sits at about 45 deg- so you can fill about 2/3 up before mounting- nice) and after putting in the rest of the 6 qts, it was right at the top of the dipstick mark...perhaps the stick is a bit off? or perhaps half a qt goes up past the deepest part of the sump and has little effect on dipstick height?
with the myford website stuff you can keep a log AT FORD of your at home maintenance(but keep reciepts too). to show mileage/dates serviced, and services performed. As the factory recommends 5w20 for a pretty highly stressed little powerhouse, figured safest bet for warranty is to use their oil...I feel better sticking to shorter change intervals too- if the oils looking darker than new, just cant be good as new to me...
prefilled the filter for minimal 'dry start'(the mustangs filter sits at about 45 deg- so you can fill about 2/3 up before mounting- nice) and after putting in the rest of the 6 qts, it was right at the top of the dipstick mark...perhaps the stick is a bit off? or perhaps half a qt goes up past the deepest part of the sump and has little effect on dipstick height?
with the myford website stuff you can keep a log AT FORD of your at home maintenance(but keep reciepts too). to show mileage/dates serviced, and services performed. As the factory recommends 5w20 for a pretty highly stressed little powerhouse, figured safest bet for warranty is to use their oil...I feel better sticking to shorter change intervals too- if the oils looking darker than new, just cant be good as new to me...
05-17-2006, 12:45 PM
#20
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sparta, Tennessee
Posts: 17
RE: All about oil...........
Thanks for the information guys. So my impression from what little I know is the synthetic does not break down as quick. But due to the nature of combustion engines, contaminants get in the oil and at a certain point, even though the viscosity is still good, but the oil needs to be changed due to being dirty. So irregardless of oil types, 3k is recommended.
thanks,
Don
thanks,
Don