Drive By Wire
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 739
From:
RE: Drive By Wire
did you try the recalibration thing? turn key on wait for lights to go off, push to floor, immediately release, turn off key.
Mine it seemed to help lag at takeoff, but at lifting pedal it still hangs but at a lower rpm- heck, its worth a try.
only thing about driving the car that could be improved upon- the drive by wire response sucks. Ford should offer a over the counter 'offroad' reflash thats warranty approved- they'd sell a bunch of them. I HATE lifting on the highway- with clutch still engaged I get EXACTLY 6 seconds delay before any engine braking(except for the first 20-30 seconds after cold start on a 60-70 degree day- then if you lift in first it burbles and backfires...wish it always did that
Mine it seemed to help lag at takeoff, but at lifting pedal it still hangs but at a lower rpm- heck, its worth a try.
only thing about driving the car that could be improved upon- the drive by wire response sucks. Ford should offer a over the counter 'offroad' reflash thats warranty approved- they'd sell a bunch of them. I HATE lifting on the highway- with clutch still engaged I get EXACTLY 6 seconds delay before any engine braking(except for the first 20-30 seconds after cold start on a 60-70 degree day- then if you lift in first it burbles and backfires...wish it always did that
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 206
From: ST Louis, MO
RE: Drive By Wire
ORIGINAL: stangman05
Elektra where do you live in St louis that you can coast to work? I work in St. Louis too. Just curious?
Elektra where do you live in St louis that you can coast to work? I work in St. Louis too. Just curious?
For the rest of you I should explain that the decline is maybe a total of 20 feet over a mile. It is not a hill or even a mound. Very small.
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 43
RE: Drive By Wire
This Drive by Wire sucks; I hate it. I have had it cause some serious bucking problems and have downshifted from 5th to 4th and punched when I really needed the power right then and it fell flat on its face. Is there any TSBs about this? Can the dealer do anything to reflash the computer and fix this mess?
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 206
From: ST Louis, MO
RE: Drive By Wire
ORIGINAL: ford4v429
did you try the recalibration thing? turn key on wait for lights to go off, push to floor, immediately release, turn off key.
Mine it seemed to help lag at takeoff, but at lifting pedal it still hangs but at a lower rpm- heck, its worth a try.
only thing about driving the car that could be improved upon- the drive by wire response sucks. Ford should offer a over the counter 'offroad' reflash thats warranty approved- they'd sell a bunch of them. I HATE lifting on the highway- with clutch still engaged I get EXACTLY 6 seconds delay before any engine braking(except for the first 20-30 seconds after cold start on a 60-70 degree day- then if you lift in first it burbles and backfires...wish it always did that
did you try the recalibration thing? turn key on wait for lights to go off, push to floor, immediately release, turn off key.
Mine it seemed to help lag at takeoff, but at lifting pedal it still hangs but at a lower rpm- heck, its worth a try.
only thing about driving the car that could be improved upon- the drive by wire response sucks. Ford should offer a over the counter 'offroad' reflash thats warranty approved- they'd sell a bunch of them. I HATE lifting on the highway- with clutch still engaged I get EXACTLY 6 seconds delay before any engine braking(except for the first 20-30 seconds after cold start on a 60-70 degree day- then if you lift in first it burbles and backfires...wish it always did that
I just tried it again and I have a issue at hand. If I drive (on a empty country road) and drive 45 mph and put it in neutral and drive its starts off at 1400 RPM. The slower I go the higher the revs get. Once at a stop it will hit a peak of 2500RPM until I put in the clutch. Once I release the clutch the rpms will go back up to 2500 RPMs till I take off.
You cant tell me this is normal! It sounds like a software issue from FORD!
2nd Gear Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 401
From:
RE: Drive By Wire
ORIGINAL: olym4gery
Yes, and why wear a seatbelt until you think you might be in a crash.
ORIGINAL: 2006RedGT
If there is no one around then there is no reason for this.
ORIGINAL: olym4gery
If you have to make an evasive manuever, you should be ready to instantly accelerate.
If you have to make an evasive manuever, you should be ready to instantly accelerate.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,235
From:
RE: Drive By Wire
ORIGINAL: olym4gery
It's a poor practice.
If you have to make an evasive manuever, you should be ready to instantly accelerate.
Next, I'm still thinking the "neutral coasting" is messing with the computer. I don't believe the MT equipped vehicles have transmission sensors. Meaning "Spanish Oak" doesn't know what gear, if any, the transmission is in at any given time. So when the car is "coasting" "Spanish Oak is putting enough fuel into the engine to maintian the car's speed................... against a transmission that isn't in gear.
Braking bias may also be an issue. Although with ABS it's less of an issue. The brakes are "balanced" so that each gets a certain amount of braking force. Because of dynamic weight transfer, front brakes usually do appx 65% of the "stopping" Rears do appx 35%. The brake system should be balanced so that the fronts/rears are using the same percentage of the available traction. So one "axle" doesn't lock before the other. Part of that equation is engine power, supplied as if a AT transmission is in gear, or a MT transmission is in gear while the brakes are applied. Disrupting that balance will cause the brakes to be less effective at stopping the car.
It's a poor practice.
If you have to make an evasive manuever, you should be ready to instantly accelerate.
Next, I'm still thinking the "neutral coasting" is messing with the computer. I don't believe the MT equipped vehicles have transmission sensors. Meaning "Spanish Oak" doesn't know what gear, if any, the transmission is in at any given time. So when the car is "coasting" "Spanish Oak is putting enough fuel into the engine to maintian the car's speed................... against a transmission that isn't in gear.
Braking bias may also be an issue. Although with ABS it's less of an issue. The brakes are "balanced" so that each gets a certain amount of braking force. Because of dynamic weight transfer, front brakes usually do appx 65% of the "stopping" Rears do appx 35%. The brake system should be balanced so that the fronts/rears are using the same percentage of the available traction. So one "axle" doesn't lock before the other. Part of that equation is engine power, supplied as if a AT transmission is in gear, or a MT transmission is in gear while the brakes are applied. Disrupting that balance will cause the brakes to be less effective at stopping the car.
If the computer was feeding enough fuel to maintane the cars speed it would be well above 2200 rpm's while coasting. As for what the brakes should do, the car would react the same if you had the clutch depressed as it would out of gear in a panic situation. These cars aren't equipped with stability control so assumtions aren't made and the system expects YOU to properly react not the brakes, they simply do there job according to how much pressure is applied to the pedal. Aside from that of course ABS does it's job perportioning wise (sp).
1st Gear Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 147
RE: Drive By Wire
ORIGINAL: 5 speed GT
This Drive by Wire sucks; I hate it. I have had it cause some serious bucking problems and have downshifted from 5th to 4th and punched when I really needed the power right then and it fell flat on its face. Is there any TSBs about this? Can the dealer do anything to reflash the computer and fix this mess?
This Drive by Wire sucks; I hate it. I have had it cause some serious bucking problems and have downshifted from 5th to 4th and punched when I really needed the power right then and it fell flat on its face. Is there any TSBs about this? Can the dealer do anything to reflash the computer and fix this mess?
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 33
From: UK
RE: Drive By Wire
ORIGINAL: elektra
hmm, Interesting. So am I hurting my car with my driving techniques? I heard that it was okay but you go through brakes faster. Anyone else suggest David's veiwpoint?
hmm, Interesting. So am I hurting my car with my driving techniques? I heard that it was okay but you go through brakes faster. Anyone else suggest David's veiwpoint?
As for evasive action, obviously if you're in the middle of nowhere the inability to accelerate isn't a major problem like you said!
BUT I think you heard right that you'll be going through brakes faster. Especially down a hill, when you're driving normally, in gear, and lift off the gas the engine will brake itself; in neutral, it will gain momentum. Obviously, you'll have to work the brakes harder to stop you everytime you brake in neutral/coasting.
So I guess the upshot is, sorry if I sounded rude. I'm sure you're not damaging your car one bit. It's just a very strange driving technique to me - but apparently not so strange to other people who posted after.
1st Gear Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 147
RE: Drive By Wire
David, there's a reason no one in the entire country of England drives like that. There's a reason that anyone who does drive like that would fail their driving test.
Instead of going through all the computer stuff, just drive it in gear instead of coasting, and tell us how that works out for you.
Instead of going through all the computer stuff, just drive it in gear instead of coasting, and tell us how that works out for you.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 195
From:
RE: Drive By Wire
The only fix is with an SCT Pro Racers Package. You can set your idle to do anything you want.
I couldn't stand the high idle at start up cold or hot. That's an easy fix with the Pro. I'm sure you could fix the high idle at decelerating as well.
I couldn't stand the high idle at start up cold or hot. That's an easy fix with the Pro. I'm sure you could fix the high idle at decelerating as well.