McPherson strut suspensions usually don't need to be corrected after modest lowering, but the Mustang's seems to be a little more cambered than is typical with a less-than-1.5" drop. I finally saw mine from the front at a 30' distance and the camber looks a bit extreme, not a disaster and not enough to really worry, but a little more than is ideal for the street. It is definitely enough to cause premature wear along the inner shoulder of the tire, so it should be aligned if tire life is a concern for you.

 

How do the Tokico D's and the Eibachs handle? Ride quality compared to stock? I'm getting ready to take the lowering plunge. I'm looking at:

1) Tokico D's Shocks/Eibach Springs or Ford Racing Shocks/Struts (trying to determine need to adjustability vs. $$)
2) Adjustable Panhard bar (probably BMR)

What about doing
Control arms
Trailing arms
Adustable 3rd link

at the same time? Worth it or wait?

Also, what's the difference between the camber bolts and the camber plates?

 

So like someone said before just to confirm, what we need for alower is:

Eibach pro-kit
adjustable panhard bar
camber kit

? we get the shop to align it using our camber kit and panhard bar we purchased?

 

bump

 

Exactly. Though, you might want to call your alignment shop first. They might already have the "camber kit" in stock.

 

Alright will do, you said an alignment shop can be anything from a tire shop to a body shop right?

so

 

OK, got back from the alignment shop today and they told me that the mustang has a -1.5 camber from the factory. After they did the alignment they printed out the results for me and it showed a -1.6 from passenger side and -2.0 for the drivers side. He told me that this is minumal and I will get some inside wear, but not too much. He also told me that the camber could not be adjusted in these cars. why?

 

Yes, or you can just look in the phone book for Alignment shops. Call around and ask.


Becasue your alignment shop is a bunch of morons. The camber most certainly is ajustible, that is what many of the posts in this thread is about. Perhaps they meant that you didn't supply them with the parts needed to adjust the camber? I would go to a different shop. Perhaps bring your own set of camber bolts when you go.

 

Well I finally got around to lowering the rear of the car late last night and will be doing the front today. I installed the Eibach Pro and the Tokico D-Spec shocks and struts and man is the ride nice. In stock form going over rough road I would get a big bump then kind of like some residual bumps kind of the B-BBB Now with the Eibach and the Tokico's it is one bump and no residual. The ride is so much nicer. Cannot wait to get the front done.

I have thee Tokico's set at 5 full turns from hard which is what the booklet suggested and man is it nice.

Richard

 

Agleon, I have the Pro-Kit installed and have been riding without the camber bolts installed for about two months. When I get back from vacation, I will be installing the Eibach camber bolts which I purchased with the springs. It is quite noticable off without them and the like said above the front wheels lean in and if looking close enough isn't too pleasant.

If you want a full suspension for a quality ride (which includes struts/dampers which I do not think is necessary) then here's the addup

Estimate:

Eibach Pro-Kit $230
Eibach Alignment-Kit $30
Tokico D-Specs $520

You'll be at about $800 with tax and shipping. I personally wouldn't find the panhard necessary but that is IMO, along with the d-specs. Again though, IMO the ride is still smooth EXCEPT when you hit pot-holes which IMO is the only unpleasant time. I also have the CDC Classic Chin and have had absolutely no clearance issues at all (that was just for reference).

You should be extremely happy even if you go with the D-Specs as I have heard nothing but great things about them.

-Jeff