BlackMagic1

Mobil1 5w30 at walmart yesterday was $19.95 for a 5qt jug.

Black2007

Lets examine the economics of this....$30.00 for oil vs $30,000 for a car...Hummmmm. If I wanted to save money somewhere, it wouldn't be to short change something that is going to offer optimum protection for the second largest investment you will make...taken to the extreme would you knowingly invest in something cheap to protect ....say your home?

I don't hesistate to suggest to you to use a quality name brand synthetic....regardless....you gotta committ to change oil at 3000 mile intervals...and invest in the best filter available...that would not be one of orange color...OK...it should be white..with the FL820s on it provided to you from the guys from Big Blue Oval...yes they too are a couple of bucks higher at WallyWorld...but like the oil, cheap is not what we are here for.

Regardless of what you read...wear in engines results from not so much the dreaded "thermal breakdown" as it is from carbon and water....yes...the by products of combustions. Oil if it is working properly hold those contaminaints in suspension and carry them to the filter where they are trapped. Running any oil for extended periods or under adverse conditions ( pulling a trailer or when there is a lot of dirt in the air) shortens motor oil and filter life. Periods of commuting where you idle the car is slow death. At idle, cars do not lubricate as well and damage results ....bottom line...a high quality conventional oil that is changed at 2000 mi intervals with filter protects better than a synthetic that is changed at 6000 mi intervals. Why you ask..because of the removal of contaminaints ...and the higher quality of premium conventional oils.

This may sound revolutionary, but getting the dirt out of the engine is the key. Oils that are tested to manufacturers specifications and provided by name manufacturers are safe bets to provide good to protection. No synthetic oil can suspend dirt any better than conventional oil. The benefit of synthetic is the consistency of the molecular make up of the oil and the strength of the molecular bond between its separate elements...conventional oils are by their nature, not as strong...but their strenght is more than enough...so long as they are clean. Get any oil dirty and the engine will die...

GTlust

Where is that WTF smilie?

[sm=WTFsgign.gif][sm=wtf.gif]

There they are, what walmart do you shop at? Last time I was there it was $27.

GTlust

Even Ford doesn't recommend 3,000 miles anymore. How about I use full synthetic and change the filter every 3,000 miles, but change the oil every 6,000. Would that be better than conventional oil and filter change every 2,000?

Silencer06

I hope you're driving a V6. If you have the V8, you should be using 5W20....and Wal-Mart doesn't sell 5W20.

Silencer06

+1+1+1+1+1+1. I couldn't possibly agree more emphatically. NEVER try to pinch pennies when it comes to considering a product that is the lifeblood of your vehicle.....especially these babies we all love so much! Now if you're driving around in an old Vega or a Yugo or something, then yes, get the cheapest junk you can find and help it die! Don't shorten the life of your Mustang though. Please, please, please.....use quality oil and search for savings in other less vital areas of your life.

ProStang

Quote:
Ahh - so "ain't worth it" vs "bad for it" - that makes more sense... Synthetics are usually only "bad for" motors that have lots of miles and have never seen them... It disolves all the crap in and around the seals/joints/breaings and your motor starts to weep from every oriface and loses oil pressure...

Thats such BS, like every board I am on this MYTH still goes around !!!

IF the car is maintained proper, there is no sludge to clean out. Good God people, dino oil is fine to use and DOES not slidge up as easy as you think. New oils are far more advanced with cars running WAY hotter then the 80's cars.

I seen hundreds of cars in my lifetime and the sludged up ones where over cooled short trip cars period.

A car has a leak or it does not. Syn does NOT makea car leak any more then dino oil. SYN oil is cheap insurance plain and simple. The ONLY fact is that oil should be tested at a lab and stop listening to Billy Bob Myths on the internet band wagon.

For me, my 01 Cobra gets Motorcraft Full Syn 5w-30 oil with Motorcraft filter.

From the guy who has never had sludge in his cars...........

Good Read:

Oil sludge is a solid or gel in motor oil caused by the oil gelling or solidifying, usually at temperatures lower than 100 degrees Celsius. Sludge can be a major contributor to engine problems, and can require the engine to be replaced if the damage is severe. Sludge is usually caused by the presence of water in the oil, and can accumulate with use. Ways to minimize sludge production and accumulation include performing frequent oil changes, using synthetic oil, and following the manufacturer's engine maintenance routine.

The following engines were reported by their manufacturers to have a problem with sludge accumulation:

1998-2002 Chrysler 2.7 L LH V6
1998-2002 Dodge Stratus/Chrysler Sebring
1998-2002 Dodge Intrepid/Chrysler Concorde
1998-2003 Saab H engine B205/B235 I4
1998-2003 Saab 9-5 B235 2.3 L
1999 Saab Viggen B235 2.3 L
2000-2002 Saab 9-3 B205 2.0 L
2000-2003 Saab 9-3 convertible B205 2.0 L
1996-2001 Toyota 3.0 L 1MZ V6
August 1996-July 2001 Toyota Camry
June 1998-May 2001 Toyota Camry Solara
July 1997-May 2001 Toyota Sienna
July 1996-May 2001 Toyota Avalon
November 2000-July 2001 Toyota Highlander
August 1998-July 2001 Lexus ES300
January 1998-July 2001 Lexus RX300
1996-2001 Toyota 5SFE I4
August 1996-July 2001 Toyota Camry
June 1998-May 2001 Toyota Camry Solara
August 1996-April 1999 Toyota Celica
1997-2004 Volkswagen VW 1.8t I4
1997-2004 Audi A4 1.8t
1998-2004 Volkswagen Passat 1.8t