process for swapping rear springs
I can't find a Haines manual on the 2006 Mustang, so I need some help on how to remove and install rear springs on an 06 GT vert. Looks as if the springs insert into holes below the body. Are they attached in these openings or are they just riding in them? I jack the car, set it on stands then use the jack for the rear axle. I'm installing Roush rears. Do I have to use the coil compressor or will there be enough travel for me to pull out the stock ones? Also do I have to go in through the interior in order to remove the springs? Thanks.
All you have to do is jack the car up and support it with jackstands. Then put the jack under the differential. Disconnect the brake calipers and support them so they hang on the brake lines. Since you have a convertible, you will have to remove the diagonal body stiffeners in order to lower the axle enough. These are a pain in the @ss since there is a bolt that holds them up right next to the gas tank. I also removed the sway bar bolts to allow the axle to go down even further. Then remove the bottom shock bolts and lower the axle down with the jack. The springs just sit in indentations in the bottom of the body and fit over a hump on the axle. Use your hands to compress the springs a little bit and pull them out by the bottom. When you take out the spring, the bottom cut end of the spring will leave an indentation in the rubber cushion. Make sure you line up the bottom cut end of the new spring with that same indentation. This will make sure that the sprinds are seated right.Then jack the differential back up and reinstall bolts.
Here is a picture of mine when I was installing them.
If you look next to the exhaust pipe, you can see the metal bar that holds the body brace up. It is connected at the top next to the gas tank. This is the hardest bolt to remove. Make sure you remember to tighten these bolts when you're done or else they will rattle like crazy and drive you nuts. Trust me, I know.
Also make sure not to place the jackstands under the control arm mounts or the axle won't lower much. I also made that mistake the first time.

If you're looking for an official ford manual, check http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.a...058NKHS9Q05XU4
The shop manual is kind of expensive, but I have seen them on ebay for really cheap. Much more thorough than any other manual. I also have the wiring diagram manual.
Rich
Here is a picture of mine when I was installing them.
If you look next to the exhaust pipe, you can see the metal bar that holds the body brace up. It is connected at the top next to the gas tank. This is the hardest bolt to remove. Make sure you remember to tighten these bolts when you're done or else they will rattle like crazy and drive you nuts. Trust me, I know.

Also make sure not to place the jackstands under the control arm mounts or the axle won't lower much. I also made that mistake the first time.

If you're looking for an official ford manual, check http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.a...058NKHS9Q05XU4
The shop manual is kind of expensive, but I have seen them on ebay for really cheap. Much more thorough than any other manual. I also have the wiring diagram manual.
Rich
I don't know about yours, but when I started lowering my rear (with the diagonal braces completely removed), I started to see body flex...
I used another set of hydrolic jacks under the rear frame members (where the rear bumper attaches), to eliminate body flex...
It won't fold in half or anything, but I just did not want to let it flex at all...
I also had to remove the braces completely to allow the rear to drop far enough.
I used another set of hydrolic jacks under the rear frame members (where the rear bumper attaches), to eliminate body flex...
It won't fold in half or anything, but I just did not want to let it flex at all...
I also had to remove the braces completely to allow the rear to drop far enough.
Thanks to Newbreed for the great explanation, but I need to correct something. If this were not a safety issue, I would let it slide.
Newbreed probably knows this but it just did not come across in his write up and it is important. Do NOT allow the calipers to hang from the hoses. This can damage the hoses and could cause the loss of brakes due to hose failure. NEVER allow the calipers to hang by their hoses. Instead, support the weight of the calipers using a piece of baling wire (for city folks, a clothes hanger makes a suitable substitute for this high tech item.)
Thanks again for the great explanation.
Newbreed probably knows this but it just did not come across in his write up and it is important. Do NOT allow the calipers to hang from the hoses. This can damage the hoses and could cause the loss of brakes due to hose failure. NEVER allow the calipers to hang by their hoses. Instead, support the weight of the calipers using a piece of baling wire (for city folks, a clothes hanger makes a suitable substitute for this high tech item.)
Thanks again for the great explanation.
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