DIY: 1 piece driveshaft install
Great write-up moosestang. That was very unselfish of yourself and the pictures were great. Do you recommend this? It took you four hours you said but could of been two hours. Someone who talked to my wife about his mustang recommended an aluminumdriveshaft is this the same thing? Don't laugh o.k.?
the stock driveshaft is two pieces. It has a universal joint on one end and a cv joint on the other with a carrier bearing holding the two pieces together. It's odd to say the least. The new one I got is one piece of tubular steel with a universal joint at each end. It attaches to the rear pinion flange using an aluminum adapter and attaches to the transmission just like the stock shaft.
It's all in my original post.
It's all in my original post.
ORIGINAL: my77stang
i never really paid attention but lemmie get this straight....
stock driveshaft has tw u joints and the new one only has one?
i never really paid attention but lemmie get this straight....
stock driveshaft has tw u joints and the new one only has one?
I recommend any 1 piece shaft over the stock one. The stock shaft is supposed to help with NVH, but with my che k member brace and torque limiter allready adding engine vibration, I didn't notice any increase aside from the voom, voom sound which I allready mentioned. The lack of clunkiness when upshifting or downshifting is what I was looking for and what I got. The car feels much more solid.
I believe the power house aluminum shaft uses two cv joints and of course it's lighter, but serves the same purpose.
Anyone can do this install, it's easy, but be aware that if you have a long torque wrench you'll need to get the car up pretty high to be able to torque the bolts properly. My torque wrench is 21 inches long 20-150ft lbs. I'm going to pick up a shorter one for tight jobs like this that don't require high torque.
I believe the power house aluminum shaft uses two cv joints and of course it's lighter, but serves the same purpose.
Anyone can do this install, it's easy, but be aware that if you have a long torque wrench you'll need to get the car up pretty high to be able to torque the bolts properly. My torque wrench is 21 inches long 20-150ft lbs. I'm going to pick up a shorter one for tight jobs like this that don't require high torque.
ORIGINAL: Daniel60
Great write-up moosestang. That was very unselfish of yourself and the pictures were great. Do you recommend this? It took you four hours you said but could of been two hours. Someone who talked to my wife about his mustang recommended an aluminumdriveshaft is this the same thing? Don't laugh o.k.?
Great write-up moosestang. That was very unselfish of yourself and the pictures were great. Do you recommend this? It took you four hours you said but could of been two hours. Someone who talked to my wife about his mustang recommended an aluminumdriveshaft is this the same thing? Don't laugh o.k.?
ORIGINAL:
For a second there I thought I was going to have to buy an adjustable upper control arm to get more angle adjustment, but after removing the rear of the control arms and spinning the adjustable end links in as far as possible (left 2 threads to be safe) I got the angle I needed.
For a second there I thought I was going to have to buy an adjustable upper control arm to get more angle adjustment, but after removing the rear of the control arms and spinning the adjustable end links in as far as possible (left 2 threads to be safe) I got the angle I needed.
They actually look more centered now than with the stock shaft. As I said my Che lca relocation brackets might have contributed to the need to adjust the lca's so much just to get a 3 degree upward angle. Next time I get a free day off I plan to try and bolt them to the stock location and see what the angle is at. I bet I have to tilt the pinion up quite a bit with my jack in order to get the holes to line up.
ORIGINAL: 07GT
One thing you might want to check is where your tires now sit within your wheelwell, front to back. If you had to shorten yourLCA's to the max, it will move your rearend forward quite a bit. I had a similar situation on a cobra kit car and ended up having to get an adjustable UCA. Anyway, I'm glad you got rid of the vroom, vroom noise and thanks for the info. Enjoy!
ORIGINAL:
For a second there I thought I was going to have to buy an adjustable upper control arm to get more angle adjustment, but after removing the rear of the control arms and spinning the adjustable end links in as far as possible (left 2 threads to be safe) I got the angle I needed.
For a second there I thought I was going to have to buy an adjustable upper control arm to get more angle adjustment, but after removing the rear of the control arms and spinning the adjustable end links in as far as possible (left 2 threads to be safe) I got the angle I needed.
Nice job Moose.
The clunky 2 piece shaft is very annoying, and I feel ashamed I'm driving around in my 30k car that clunks whenever I shift... Real good job Ford. Was under the car today, a nice day and the oil needed changing. I really wish I had access to a lift to do jobs like these. I think I'll just save up and do a LT setup + Driveshaft + Brace w/ Torque Limiters at the same time. Thanks again.
The clunky 2 piece shaft is very annoying, and I feel ashamed I'm driving around in my 30k car that clunks whenever I shift... Real good job Ford. Was under the car today, a nice day and the oil needed changing. I really wish I had access to a lift to do jobs like these. I think I'll just save up and do a LT setup + Driveshaft + Brace w/ Torque Limiters at the same time. Thanks again.


