Intercooled or Non-Intercooled....
03-16-2007, 02:22 AM
#11
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Highland, Ca.
Posts: 1,097
RE: Intercooled or Non-Intercooled....
Definitely go with the intercooled unit. It will cost you more later to upgrade, plus you'll be much happier with it. If you can do it, go with the HO unit. Just because you have it, doesn't mean you have to use it..........yeah, right!
***One big note here- Even though the supercharger manufacturers claim 475rwhp, does NOT mean that you will get that. When I was having mine installed at ST Motorsports, Adam ran a baseline dyno on my car, and it was only 231rwhp stock. I about crapped my pants, and he told me that since these cars first came out they have noticed huge variances in rwhp from the stock 4.6L 3valves. Through a bunch of testing ST did, and finally dealing directly with Ford and Ford Racing, he was informed that every single Mustang GT's horsepoweris different due to the heads. The heads are all different, and in fact Ford is unable to give a specific cc flow for the heads, as each run of castings is different. Ford has a huge range of cc's for our cars. Adam said that the new GT's that are completely stock usually dyno anywhere from 230rwhp to 265rwhp. A 35 hp difference between two brand new identical cars is a massive difference. This is something not usually found in any American cars.***
***One big note here- Even though the supercharger manufacturers claim 475rwhp, does NOT mean that you will get that. When I was having mine installed at ST Motorsports, Adam ran a baseline dyno on my car, and it was only 231rwhp stock. I about crapped my pants, and he told me that since these cars first came out they have noticed huge variances in rwhp from the stock 4.6L 3valves. Through a bunch of testing ST did, and finally dealing directly with Ford and Ford Racing, he was informed that every single Mustang GT's horsepoweris different due to the heads. The heads are all different, and in fact Ford is unable to give a specific cc flow for the heads, as each run of castings is different. Ford has a huge range of cc's for our cars. Adam said that the new GT's that are completely stock usually dyno anywhere from 230rwhp to 265rwhp. A 35 hp difference between two brand new identical cars is a massive difference. This is something not usually found in any American cars.***
03-16-2007, 02:34 AM
#12
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Baytown, TX
Posts: 3,115
RE: Intercooled or Non-Intercooled....
Get the HO and drop the boost to what you want
475 I think they must mean crank power just look at what others are actualy getting
maybe FRPP should sell high flow 3vheads
475 I think they must mean crank power just look at what others are actualy getting
maybe FRPP should sell high flow 3vheads
03-16-2007, 04:10 AM
#14
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: United Socialist States of America, Comrade.
Posts: 742
RE: Intercooled or Non-Intercooled....
ORIGINAL: Stkjock
There you go.... midrange is your answer
ORIGINAL: likemike99
dude there are 3 options. the non-intercooled(6lbs boost- 405rwhp) $4493, the intercooled (8lbs boost-445rwhp)$4825 , and the H.O system- also intercooled(10-12lbs boost-475rwhp)$6117. get the midrange one.
dude there are 3 options. the non-intercooled(6lbs boost- 405rwhp) $4493, the intercooled (8lbs boost-445rwhp)$4825 , and the H.O system- also intercooled(10-12lbs boost-475rwhp)$6117. get the midrange one.
I think I am going with the expensive one, and go with a conservative pulley, like a 8 psi. that should get me in the 440hp range.
03-16-2007, 06:43 AM
#15
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location:
Posts: 220
RE: Intercooled or Non-Intercooled....
I am not an expert, but I have done a lot of research and talked to a lot of pros. Get the intercooled one or you will have pre detonation when the engine is hot and have to turn the boost down. These engines don't handle heat well. Also if you go with more tha 450 hp at the crank you should think about changing the rods. They are the weak link in this motor.
PS, I got 312 RWHP and 330 RWTQ on JBA's dyno with a Steeda CAI, SCT 91 octane tune, underdrive pulleys and charge motion plates (no exhaust mods). Not a bad increase for relatively small dollars.
[IMG]local://upfiles/63299/DAE945CE430445B2A0EB67A52C7746DB.jpg[/IMG]
PS, I got 312 RWHP and 330 RWTQ on JBA's dyno with a Steeda CAI, SCT 91 octane tune, underdrive pulleys and charge motion plates (no exhaust mods). Not a bad increase for relatively small dollars.
[IMG]local://upfiles/63299/DAE945CE430445B2A0EB67A52C7746DB.jpg[/IMG]
03-16-2007, 09:38 AM
#16
RE: Intercooled or Non-Intercooled....
save your money and do it right the first time...this is one mod that you don't want to rush into....
[IMG]local://upfiles/50057/85AAADB2FE454B69983589E17F639448.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/50057/CAFA6071B2074447ABC39CDAE9C7B2E6.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/50057/85AAADB2FE454B69983589E17F639448.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/50057/CAFA6071B2074447ABC39CDAE9C7B2E6.jpg[/IMG]
03-18-2007, 05:03 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Babylon, NY
Posts: 3,031
RE: Intercooled or Non-Intercooled....
OH and BTW, that non IC whipple kit will likely NOT get you 405rwhp. I spoke to Lethal about this and the figure is more like 370-380rwhp. This does seem more in line with 6psi.
03-18-2007, 06:05 PM
#18
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ft.Myers, Florida
Posts: 1,064
RE: Intercooled or Non-Intercooled....
Going anything over 9ish psi is VERY risky on our bottom end. I agree with others in saying get the best one, because either way you are spending a ton of money, may as well do it right. Personally i would NOT go over 8 psi on the stock bottom end. And yes when they are saying 450 and 475hp they are talking crank, so really we are talking right around 400 wheel, which is a LOT, so dont be disappointed.
And to the guy with 312 hp on very very MINOR bolt ons.... wow. A 60 hp gain from pulleys and a tune? 312 crank would make a bit more sense here putting you around 250-260 wheel. UD pulleys add about 3-4 rwhp, i know, we did the before and after. Im not calling you a liar by any means, just saying i have seen s197's with LT headers, camed, cai,tune, and pulleys hit right around the 300 hp mark all day.
And to the guy with 312 hp on very very MINOR bolt ons.... wow. A 60 hp gain from pulleys and a tune? 312 crank would make a bit more sense here putting you around 250-260 wheel. UD pulleys add about 3-4 rwhp, i know, we did the before and after. Im not calling you a liar by any means, just saying i have seen s197's with LT headers, camed, cai,tune, and pulleys hit right around the 300 hp mark all day.
03-18-2007, 06:42 PM
#19
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,544
RE: Intercooled or Non-Intercooled....
The intercooled option is easily the best choice.
As others have said, the intercooler drops the intake charge temperatures significantly. This reduces the tendency for predetonation to occur...and if you are wanting to play it safe, this is a MAJOR benefit. You can always get the HO intercooled kit andchoose a smaller pulley to stay sane on the boost levels. That way you will have a very safe boost pressure AND you will also have a cool intake charge.
I would also do a dyno test with A/F measurements so you can make sure your mixture is correct. Running the correct A/F is key to preserving your engine.
As others have said, the intercooler drops the intake charge temperatures significantly. This reduces the tendency for predetonation to occur...and if you are wanting to play it safe, this is a MAJOR benefit. You can always get the HO intercooled kit andchoose a smaller pulley to stay sane on the boost levels. That way you will have a very safe boost pressure AND you will also have a cool intake charge.
I would also do a dyno test with A/F measurements so you can make sure your mixture is correct. Running the correct A/F is key to preserving your engine.
03-18-2007, 06:54 PM
#20
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,136
RE: Intercooled or Non-Intercooled....
ORIGINAL: ohsixgt1217
Going anything over 9ish psi is VERY risky on our bottom end. I agree with others in saying get the best one, because either way you are spending a ton of money, may as well do it right. Personally i would NOT go over 8 psi on the stock bottom end. And yes when they are saying 450 and 475hp they are talking crank, so really we are talking right around 400 wheel, which is a LOT, so dont be disappointed.
And to the guy with 312 hp on very very MINOR bolt ons.... wow. A 60 hp gain from pulleys and a tune? 312 crank would make a bit more sense here putting you around 250-260 wheel. UD pulleys add about 3-4 rwhp, i know, we did the before and after. Im not calling you a liar by any means, just saying i have seen s197's with LT headers, camed, cai,tune, and pulleys hit right around the 300 hp mark all day.
Going anything over 9ish psi is VERY risky on our bottom end. I agree with others in saying get the best one, because either way you are spending a ton of money, may as well do it right. Personally i would NOT go over 8 psi on the stock bottom end. And yes when they are saying 450 and 475hp they are talking crank, so really we are talking right around 400 wheel, which is a LOT, so dont be disappointed.
And to the guy with 312 hp on very very MINOR bolt ons.... wow. A 60 hp gain from pulleys and a tune? 312 crank would make a bit more sense here putting you around 250-260 wheel. UD pulleys add about 3-4 rwhp, i know, we did the before and after. Im not calling you a liar by any means, just saying i have seen s197's with LT headers, camed, cai,tune, and pulleys hit right around the 300 hp mark all day.
You didn't hear, he got the "factory freak" before his mods he was putting 280 to the ground/. I am kidding. I amazed everytime someone says they get over 300 rwhp with pullies,tune and CAI. boy did I get screwed.lol