northy_polk

vwillo: did you start off using the lowest holes in the BMR reloc. brackets?

PERTANO

HB2 & HN2 are for lower control arm where it attaches at rear end.
HB3 & HN3 are for lower control arm at front on Chassis

Hope this helps.

HB2
Bolt
W704888S900

W704888-S900
Standard Part Locator(AB-172)
M14 X 95MM

HB3
Bolt
W711504S439

W711504-S439
M14 X 77


HN2
Nut
W704991S900

W704991-S900
Standard Part Locator(AM-99-T)
M14

HN3
Nut
W710089S440

W710089-S440
Standard Part Locator(AM-54-P)
M14

moosestang

You don't necessarily need a 4 wheel alignment. Use some common sense and a tape measure.I Measured from the center of front lower control arm mounting bolt to the axle tube on both sides, then adjusted the control arms to make the distance equal. There is probably a more precise way, but this is better than just making the lower control arms the same length.

Seeing as how the factory control arms are the same length, I think the relocation brackets are causing the axle to be crooked or more crooked than it was from the factory.

northy_polk

Moose: that kinda makes sense that the relocation brackets are to blame rather than the arms.but does this explain the rear end moving to the passenger side on hard acceleration or down shifting? i guess if the axles are not lined up properly then that might cause some confusion back there. . . .i don't know.

moosestang

Why buy new bolts from Ford? I mean the relocation brackets come with new bolts and they aren't from Ford. The stock bolts sure as hell don't look very strong, I wouldn't be surprised if a grade 8 bolt from the hardware storeis stronger.

northy_polk

i don't intend to buy any new bolts. i think somebody else was. if i said so it was just to appease the guy who said they are one-time use. :-) i agree that they are sturdy and with loctite they should be fine. the only ones left of the stock nuts/bolts after the BMR reloc install are the front two on the LCAs and the original panhard bolt/nut.

northy_polk

do they look like this [only red, these are J&M brand not Spohn like mine] and, if so, how do i get them out without damaging them?

VWILLO

Poly end of Spohns look like the one on the left except red (softer compound). I pulled mine out with my fingers. The black bushings are supposed to be much firmer (more noise & vibration) but are impregnated with some type of lubricant and aren't supposed to be asprone to squeaking. All the grease has stopped my squeaking for now, hope it lasts, I don't want to disassemble the LCAs all the time. I believe if the spacer on my spohns where 1/8 longer there wouldn't be a problem. Going to talk to them.

northy_polk

. . . or if the space was 1/8 inch narrower? it looked to me that the space looked rather "sloppy" and the sides of the channel that the poly end fits in looked like they could be bent in or out. but whatever. either way if the spacer were longer it would help the situation.

VWILLO

The spacer needs to be equal in length to the outer flanges of the poly bushings. The binding and squeaking are cominging from compressing the bushing in the body mounting locations when torqueing the bolt.