i got my mustang on the x plan, but as far as a starting place w/ the haggling, i dont agree. when your doing x plan its a set price. like an employees discount. you cant use the x plan, then talk them down.
where the haggling comes in is w/ your trade. a good trick is, get them to give you a good price on your trade, then say oh BTW i tihn i might qualify for x plan, then they cant take back on the trade and you get a lower price on your staaang.
That's what my dad did on there GT, it's a fully loaded 07. My 07 GT/CS I got for about 27K + tt&l, and on top of that i put down 7500.

 

Because Federal Law requires a MSRP on a window sticker. Car cant be sold without it.

However since the TimexDecision there is no such thing as an actual retail price in the USA.Themanufacturer (Timex, Ford, etc) cansuggest a pricebut its up to the retailer what they choose to charge. That can be $4000 off like some V-6s or $20,000 over like some GT500s.

If you are not ordering I would search the vehicle inventory at all the dealers within 100 mi or so via Fords website. Find the cars you are most interested in then send in a request via the internet sales department for a price.

Most of the offers I got where between 2%above and 1.5%below invoice (dealers cost). However this isnt true dealers cost as they also have a little hold-back + dealer incentive. There are also some rebates you are likely to qualify for.

Invoice - 1% - Rebates would get you in the ballpark of what to expect. In June I bought a low option GT ($26,540 MSRP) for about $23,650 after $1000 rebate. I could have gotten a Loaded Automatic for about $4500 Off MSRP including $1645 in Rebates.

 

Thanks for everyone who posted and I think i can get a better deal on the GT when i go to purchase it. From $33k does ne1 have any idea of how low they can go? im thinking $30k... also what if you pay it off on the spot?

 

Both, shaker 500 and 1000 have serious issues with the CD changer. Instead of paying additional 1000 you might as well get the base CD player and then have an in-dash DVD palyer installed for probably cheaper... its up to you though. As for the deal part go to www.carsdirect.com. My 06 GT Auto with a keyless entry alarm came up to only 23500 just because I showed the dealer how much it runs for on that website. According to cars direct any dealer is suppose to match the price to the website price for u.

 

MY car was sticker at almost 32, and with explan and discount for it being a demo (meaning it was drove by an old guy and had 500 miles) got it for 27500 w/o tt&L

 

Thanks alot for the info... All my q's are answered and i think i can haggle my way towards a lower price. THANKS

btw what does tt&l mean?

 

/\ Tax, title, and licence

 

When I was car hunting, I had a loan that could only buy a used car. When I didnt see any I liked at dealerships, they were offering to get me a new car for the same price range (mid 20s). So I would assume you can get some left overs on the lots for that.
Never pay tax tag and license. If you are financing it through a different medium than them, make them throw it in... show them your blank check, and they wont let you leave without a car.

My car was used, only had 575miles on it becuase previous owner didnt like driving MT, so he traded it in for an AT. they wanted 28500 + tt&l (so woulda been 30k total). I showed them the check, payed 25.5k OTD. Wasn't bad for my first purchase... though next time I will talk down some more.

 

For reference, invoice is about 93% of final MSRP (including destination). So for an MSRP of $33k, invoice is $30.700, then subtract $1500 for a final selling price of $29.200 (+ttl).

Also, yes you can haggle on x-plan. Dealers don't like to do it, and they'll tell you the price is fixed - no haggle, but depending on how tight your local market is, if you push, they might discount x-plan. It won't be much, maybe another $500, but $500 is $500.