Lowering Requirments
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 617
From:
RE: Lowering Requirments
I lowered mine with the pro kit 2 weeks ago. Checked the rear end for movement afterwards and the rear is the exact same on both wheels when i measured with a plumb bob, so i didn't bother ordering a adj. panhard. I didn't do shock/struts yet because of the low use my car gets and didn't see it as necessary at this point in time. Eventually i will get some tokico's when the ride starts to get harsh.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 567
From:
RE: Lowering Requirments
[/align]sorry to change the subject but what rim combo is that? i know its the foose nitrous but it looks like you have a lip at he back? what size is it? or do you just order awidderrim and it comes with a lip?
[blockquote]
ORIGINAL: suoperdave84
You will need a camber correcting kit or the camber correcting bolts. The bolts are a lot cheaper but not as high quality and you can't always get them to work. I have a Steeda kit for sale in the For Sale section. PM me if interested.
You will also need an alignment right away. Have the shop that does your springs do it.
Some will say you NEED a panhard bar but my car did not need one at all. Also you will hear people tell you that you need new shocks....Eibach claims that you don't, and I didn't change mine. Yes it's a little stiffer but it rides fine. I have had the springs on for like 7 months now and everything is perfect.
You will need a camber correcting kit or the camber correcting bolts. The bolts are a lot cheaper but not as high quality and you can't always get them to work. I have a Steeda kit for sale in the For Sale section. PM me if interested.
You will also need an alignment right away. Have the shop that does your springs do it.
Some will say you NEED a panhard bar but my car did not need one at all. Also you will hear people tell you that you need new shocks....Eibach claims that you don't, and I didn't change mine. Yes it's a little stiffer but it rides fine. I have had the springs on for like 7 months now and everything is perfect.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,602
From:
RE: Lowering Requirments
ORIGINAL: Black07gt
[/align]sorry to change the subject but what rim combo is that? i know its the foose nitrous but it looks like you have a lip at he back? what size is it? or do you just order awidderrim and it comes with a lip?
[blockquote]
[/blockquote]
[/align]sorry to change the subject but what rim combo is that? i know its the foose nitrous but it looks like you have a lip at he back? what size is it? or do you just order awidderrim and it comes with a lip?
[blockquote]
ORIGINAL: suoperdave84
You will need a camber correcting kit or the camber correcting bolts. The bolts are a lot cheaper but not as high quality and you can't always get them to work. I have a Steeda kit for sale in the For Sale section. PM me if interested.
You will also need an alignment right away. Have the shop that does your springs do it.
Some will say you NEED a panhard bar but my car did not need one at all. Also you will hear people tell you that you need new shocks....Eibach claims that you don't, and I didn't change mine. Yes it's a little stiffer but it rides fine. I have had the springs on for like 7 months now and everything is perfect.
You will need a camber correcting kit or the camber correcting bolts. The bolts are a lot cheaper but not as high quality and you can't always get them to work. I have a Steeda kit for sale in the For Sale section. PM me if interested.
You will also need an alignment right away. Have the shop that does your springs do it.
Some will say you NEED a panhard bar but my car did not need one at all. Also you will hear people tell you that you need new shocks....Eibach claims that you don't, and I didn't change mine. Yes it's a little stiffer but it rides fine. I have had the springs on for like 7 months now and everything is perfect.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 567
From:
RE: Lowering Requirments
nice rims man
[/align]
[blockquote]
ORIGINAL: suoperdave84
They are just regular Foose Nitrous wheels. If you get 10" ones in the back they are set back some like that. I think they look a little deeper in the picture than they do in real life though.
ORIGINAL: Black07gt
[/align]sorry to change the subject but what rim combo is that? i know its the foose nitrous but it looks like you have a lip at he back? what size is it? or do you just order awidderrim and it comes with a lip?
[blockquote]
[/blockquote]
[/align]sorry to change the subject but what rim combo is that? i know its the foose nitrous but it looks like you have a lip at he back? what size is it? or do you just order awidderrim and it comes with a lip?
[blockquote]
ORIGINAL: suoperdave84
You will need a camber correcting kit or the camber correcting bolts. The bolts are a lot cheaper but not as high quality and you can't always get them to work. I have a Steeda kit for sale in the For Sale section. PM me if interested.
You will also need an alignment right away. Have the shop that does your springs do it.
Some will say you NEED a panhard bar but my car did not need one at all. Also you will hear people tell you that you need new shocks....Eibach claims that you don't, and I didn't change mine. Yes it's a little stiffer but it rides fine. I have had the springs on for like 7 months now and everything is perfect.
You will need a camber correcting kit or the camber correcting bolts. The bolts are a lot cheaper but not as high quality and you can't always get them to work. I have a Steeda kit for sale in the For Sale section. PM me if interested.
You will also need an alignment right away. Have the shop that does your springs do it.
Some will say you NEED a panhard bar but my car did not need one at all. Also you will hear people tell you that you need new shocks....Eibach claims that you don't, and I didn't change mine. Yes it's a little stiffer but it rides fine. I have had the springs on for like 7 months now and everything is perfect.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,179
From: Nor Cal
RE: Lowering Requirments
Ok things that you NEED to do it the right way are.
Adj. Panhard Bar: Neededto center the rear axle. Some people are off other's are not. Mine personally moved to the left 1 inch so it was a MUST Have item.
Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets: Needed to get the instant center of the rear end back and let the suspension travel in it's normal geometry
Shocks/Struts: Why have to do labor twice do it all at once and if you go with the D-Spec you can adjust the ride to suit you..
Adj. UCA or LCA I chose UCA this is need to adjust the pinion angle.
Camber Bolts to correct the Alignment again some car need them some do not.
And i QUOTE:
Adj. Panhard Bar: Neededto center the rear axle. Some people are off other's are not. Mine personally moved to the left 1 inch so it was a MUST Have item.
Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets: Needed to get the instant center of the rear end back and let the suspension travel in it's normal geometry
Shocks/Struts: Why have to do labor twice do it all at once and if you go with the D-Spec you can adjust the ride to suit you..
Adj. UCA or LCA I chose UCA this is need to adjust the pinion angle.
Camber Bolts to correct the Alignment again some car need them some do not.
And i QUOTE:
In a nutshell:
The first suspension mods you should consider are LCAs, Rear sway bar, Panhard Bar, and the Panhard Bar brace. These are great mods for any style of driving (street, drag, or road race/autocross).
If you want to lower your car and/or improve cornering, look at lowering springs and shocks. Note that when you lower your car you'll need the aforementioned stuff anyway. I recommend the Toicko D-spec shocks.
If you get more agressive with your handling desires and HP levels, then start with the UCA & mount, LCA relocation brackets, etc...
< Message edited by CrazyAl -- 2/20/2007 6:37:05 AM >
The first suspension mods you should consider are LCAs, Rear sway bar, Panhard Bar, and the Panhard Bar brace. These are great mods for any style of driving (street, drag, or road race/autocross).
If you want to lower your car and/or improve cornering, look at lowering springs and shocks. Note that when you lower your car you'll need the aforementioned stuff anyway. I recommend the Toicko D-spec shocks.
If you get more agressive with your handling desires and HP levels, then start with the UCA & mount, LCA relocation brackets, etc...
< Message edited by CrazyAl -- 2/20/2007 6:37:05 AM >
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,602
From:
RE: Lowering Requirments
ORIGINAL: white531
I am about to put 20' wheels and tires on my 07.What did you do about your tire air sensors.
I am about to put 20' wheels and tires on my 07.What did you do about your tire air sensors.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 152
From: Arlington, VA
RE: Lowering Requirments
ORIGINAL: 06GT4RAD
Ok things that you NEED to do it the right way are.
Adj. Panhard Bar: Needed to center the rear axle. Some people are off other's are not. Mine personally moved to the left 1 inch so it was a MUST Have item.
Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets: Needed to get the instant center of the rear end back and let the suspension travel in it's normal geometry
Shocks/Struts: Why have to do labor twice do it all at once and if you go with the D-Spec you can adjust the ride to suit you..
Adj. UCA or LCA I chose UCA this is need to adjust the pinion angle.
Camber Bolts to correct the Alignment again some car need them some do not.
And i QUOTE:
Ok things that you NEED to do it the right way are.
Adj. Panhard Bar: Needed to center the rear axle. Some people are off other's are not. Mine personally moved to the left 1 inch so it was a MUST Have item.
Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets: Needed to get the instant center of the rear end back and let the suspension travel in it's normal geometry
Shocks/Struts: Why have to do labor twice do it all at once and if you go with the D-Spec you can adjust the ride to suit you..
Adj. UCA or LCA I chose UCA this is need to adjust the pinion angle.
Camber Bolts to correct the Alignment again some car need them some do not.
And i QUOTE:
In a nutshell:
The first suspension mods you should consider are LCAs, Rear sway bar, Panhard Bar, and the Panhard Bar brace. These are great mods for any style of driving (street, drag, or road race/autocross).
If you want to lower your car and/or improve cornering, look at lowering springs and shocks. Note that when you lower your car you'll need the aforementioned stuff anyway. I recommend the Toicko D-spec shocks.
If you get more agressive with your handling desires and HP levels, then start with the UCA & mount, LCA relocation brackets, etc...
< Message edited by CrazyAl -- 2/20/2007 6:37:05 AM >
The first suspension mods you should consider are LCAs, Rear sway bar, Panhard Bar, and the Panhard Bar brace. These are great mods for any style of driving (street, drag, or road race/autocross).
If you want to lower your car and/or improve cornering, look at lowering springs and shocks. Note that when you lower your car you'll need the aforementioned stuff anyway. I recommend the Toicko D-spec shocks.
If you get more agressive with your handling desires and HP levels, then start with the UCA & mount, LCA relocation brackets, etc...
< Message edited by CrazyAl -- 2/20/2007 6:37:05 AM >
I'm not into paying extra for more labor because I didn't have something installed the first time. If it were my car, I would atleast do:
Springs
Shocks/Struts
LCA or UCA
Adj. Panhard Bar
Camber Bolts (may not need 'em, but they're cheap so buy a set)
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