brewcity

I cant decide. for the past month i have been calling around for a gear install and have finaly found the shop i want to do the install but now i have a friend that keeps telling me to go with the torque converter instead. he said it will help lower my E.T. by .5 or more. i would love to lower my E.T. but would also love to have the extra acceleration with the gears to bring down my 60' times. i am so undecided. so will people with torque converters please chime in. oh my mods are c&l street sct w/breenspeed tunes(running 93) and slp LM's and thinking about adding a B*A*M*A race tune

jerjan

go with gears, a high stall convertor will kill your mileage.

06tyrfryr

Ihave high stall and many other mods. tourqe converter is best for lowering your 60' times by far. I also still get 24 mpg on the highway with all my mods. the tci torque converter still retains lock up capability so you dont suffer mileage on the highway. town driving can suffer on mileage though.

LAK3RS

I haven't done my converter yet, but LT's and a converter are next up for me. So far, excluding tuning my favorite mods are..

1. E.T. Streets
2. 4.10 Gears
3. Spydershaft

I'm pretty sure if/when I do my PI 3200 stall I'll be pretty darn satisfied with it. It will probably be either 1 or 2...

s197richie

I am MT but if I had gone the slushbox route I would've done the CAI/intake combo (which you've already done), stall converter, 3.73s, DRs and rear ca's. I know this doesn't answer your question lol...I guess I'm saying do both (actually, do ALL)...just figure out which order you wanna use.
p.s. if you're running factory tires and rear ca's you might want to do both those before either of the things you've mentioned esp. if you're a track junkie...no since spinning and hopping your way down the track you know?

brewcity

ok heres another question can i just swap out the lca's or do i need to do more like a upper 3 rd link camber plates lca relocate stuff like that? ive been planing on doing the lca's just dont know whats all involved and didnt want to screw anything up but i think i am going to go with the gears first, cheaper install and easier tuning lol. i should do it all at once but the wife might get mad but i could always do the whole dont tell her thing but she drives it every once in awhile and i think she might notice lol. decisions decisions so many decisions

s197richie

Some places will tell you that just doing the lower ca's will stop your wheel hop issue almost 100%, while others say you're only doing half the job (two thirds actually since there's only one upper lol) and to do all three while you're in there. If you ever plan on getting a 1 pc ds you'll need an adj upper, and if you have any plans on lowering the car, that's where things could get tricky. I myself just got the steeda stop the hop pkg, which is the tubular non-adj upper/lowers (no plans on lowering or ds upgrade). Before, any clutch drop below 4K would shake the car apart. Now I can step off the clutch at around 1500rpm and -0- hop.
p.s. the lowers are quite the simple bolt-in but the upper is a real bitch. Remeber to do your final torqueing at ride height or you'll introduce a preload on the bushings.
...hope I helped!

brewcity

Thanks Richie your help is appreciated i do plan on upgrading the DS in the future so the upper adj. is the way to go then. did you install the lca's your self and if so how hard was it?

s197richie

no I had the shop at my work (dodge dealer) put them in...from what I hear, the lowers are tit, the upper is a bitch...like I said make sure you follow the torque specs and do the final torquing at ride height, on a drive-up lift or on ramps, no jackstands or you'll introduce a preload on the bushings.
So I guess you can slap in some tubular non-adj lca's for now and worry about the upper down the road...I think the steedas are $209 for the lowers...

lldsandsll

so you've got bitch **** huh?