GidyupGo

Could be different thicknesses allowing more or less current to flow. Riostat?

balli

Oh...if there was only a way to get a Fuel Injected engine as responsive as a carb.

kindred169

I'm in agreement with you DMHINES. Where the pad contacts probably isn't the deciding factor here. I think the logic may be a little wrong. In giving it some thought, I have a different theory which relies on the ECU recalibrating. If you assuming that the ECU takes the initial resistance value as a zero point, a decrease in resistance results in an increase in acceleration. For simplicity lets say the ECU reads 25 ohms at the zero point. And let's say its programmed to divide this up into 25 "speed" selections (we know it's infinite, but this is for illustration). For every 1 ohm you decrease, you increase in speed by one selection. Now, let's say you move the pad placement further down. Now you're starting at say... 20 ohms instead of 25. Now, again the ECU divides it into 25 "speed selections" and we have 0.8 ohms decrease equals an increase of one speed selection. This means it takes less movement of thegas pedal to get the same increase in speed. You haven't removed the dead spot per say, you've increased the sensitivity of the pedal.

ohnoesaz

I think people are getting confused..... They're thinking 'throttle response'. That is wrong. That is something that can be improved with a computer tune.

What the original posted is talking about is actual physical dead space. Not a computer thing, but actual dead space. The brushes don't touch anything with the pedal not pressed. When it is pressed then it takes half an inch of pressure to cut through this physical dead space to even reach the contacts in the first place. That is what the original poster is trying to fix.

kindred169

Ohnosaez, I'm in agreement. The title of the post is misleading. It's all about increasing the sensitivity of the pedal, not in adjusting your throttle response.

01Steed

It's a rheostat.

GidyupGo

Yes and no. It is adjusting the response time of the throttle. If it turns on faster.......

flapjack

The "surging" I think you're talking about happens with every manual Mustang... at least the V6's. Basically, if you're in true neutral (not just with the clutch depressed), and your car is still rolling, your idle revs will run up to 1500-2000 rpm. As soon as the vehicle stops moving, or when you press in the clutch, it drops back down to normal idle.

So far, no one has been able to eliminate this by tuning. I think the common understanding is that the car tries to keep the O2 sensors a certain temperature. As you may know, resistance increases as a circuit heats up. You may have exactly the same AFR exhaust running down your pipes, but if you measure the O2 signal at different temp ranges, you'll get different results. Therefore, the car is unable to make corrections accurately. The solution is to try and keep the O2 sensor an average temperature, that way, the resistance across the circuit is the same (or close to it) at all times. This allows for more accurate fuel trims corrections.

Think about it, the idle surge happens more in the first few minutes you drive the car. After a while, the surging slows down, or even stops.

mightymouse

Need less to say i like the idea of just being able to just tap the pedal and the car responds rater than having to press the pedal to get a responce.

GidyupGo

I agree. It is something you just get used to though. Ours has a slight hesitation when cold first thing in the morning. It is getting down to 40* now at night and it is just a littl cold blooded. We don't give it much warm up time. Just a back down the driveway and wait for the garage door to close. Once we get down to the stop sign, it goes away. I may try gramps' idea with the spacer first.