Clean that Throttle Body!!!
09-02-2007, 09:29 PM
#12
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location:
Posts: 9
RE: Clean that Throttle Body!!!
This needs to be a sticky for the RPM dropping syndrom. I was at 31k before I found a thread on another stang forum about cleaning it. Mine was very dirty, had been running a JLT since about 12k miles.
09-02-2007, 11:50 PM
#15
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 1,660
RE: Clean that Throttle Body!!!
i have been having all these same problems mentioned above also but couldn't figure out what was causing it. I have tomorrow off for the holiday and will be cleaning my TB. I have had a Steeda intake for over 45K miles now. If it is extremely dirty, I will post the pictures accordingly.
Thanks in advance if this cures the problem...I will forever be in debt
Thanks in advance if this cures the problem...I will forever be in debt
09-03-2007, 12:01 AM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location:
Posts: 151
RE: Clean that Throttle Body!!!
ORIGINAL: Doc Holiday
, as the rubber hose supplied is a larger inner diameter than stock, which allows more un-metered air into the engine. The venturi effect from the air rushing through the intake literally sucks air from the crankcase, through the pcv hose and into your intake (past the MAF) without the ECU ever seeing the extra air. This can cause a slight lean condition, or hesitation problems, or fuel trim issues as well.
, as the rubber hose supplied is a larger inner diameter than stock, which allows more un-metered air into the engine. The venturi effect from the air rushing through the intake literally sucks air from the crankcase, through the pcv hose and into your intake (past the MAF) without the ECU ever seeing the extra air. This can cause a slight lean condition, or hesitation problems, or fuel trim issues as well.
09-03-2007, 01:34 AM
#17
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: S.Florida
Posts: 1,612
RE: Clean that Throttle Body!!!
dead on with that, everything else before it made my head spin. as for cleaning procedure, i heard that you should give itsome spray all over, hold the butterfly open and do it a bit more in the spots you may not have reached, let it sit a minute and then start the engine. it will burn everything through, might sound a bit funny for a couple seconds while working through. also, i may be wrong, but i heard that using tb cleaner isnt necessary for many many miles, talkin 100K+.
09-03-2007, 03:34 AM
#18
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 157
RE: Clean that Throttle Body!!!
ORIGINAL: takotruckin
the carbon is normal, it happens to ALL cars. a bg fuel induction service works wonders on anything with over 15k miles. it is not from the pcv system. that tube on the intake actually allows air INTO the engine, and it is after the MAF, so that it is metered. it goes through the engine to the other valve cover thru the pcv valve and into the intake manifold after the throttle body. a filter on that hose will accomplish nothing, other than just looking goofy. the correct way to use the throttle body cleaner is to remove the intake tube, and with the engine running, spray it into the throttle body. this way you are also cleaning the intake manifold and even heads/valves. you may have to use short bursts to avoid from killing the engine.
ORIGINAL: Doc Holiday
, as the rubber hose supplied is a larger inner diameter than stock, which allows more un-metered air into the engine. The venturi effect from the air rushing through the intake literally sucks air from the crankcase, through the pcv hose and into your intake (past the MAF) without the ECU ever seeing the extra air. This can cause a slight lean condition, or hesitation problems, or fuel trim issues as well.
, as the rubber hose supplied is a larger inner diameter than stock, which allows more un-metered air into the engine. The venturi effect from the air rushing through the intake literally sucks air from the crankcase, through the pcv hose and into your intake (past the MAF) without the ECU ever seeing the extra air. This can cause a slight lean condition, or hesitation problems, or fuel trim issues as well.
Wow, I absolutely cannot understand what you are trying to say here. First of all, since you agree that the hose is connected to the intake AFTER the MAF, how the hell can it be "metered"? Second of all, if you disconnect the intake tube while the car is running, you will have no air flow being drawn past the MAF anymore, which will stall you engine! Your technique sounds more like cleaning a carburator while the car is running. Please think about what you are saying BEFORE posting an arguement, K?
Third, the hose is connected to the valve cover and then to the intake tube (again...AFTER the MAF sensor) and serves to VENT the crankcase of excess pressures. This is a positive pressure that feeds the intake (AFTER the MAF) and into the throttle body. This carries an oily vapor from the crankcase and WILL foul up your throttlebody AND intake runners more than usual with a larger diameter hose (unfiltered).
The rubber hose that comes with the aftermarket intakes (like the JLTII) is about $2 at a parts store. Try using a see-through filter and see how much crap is going past your TB, into your intake, and into the combustion chamber.
09-03-2007, 08:05 AM
#19
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Fenton, MO.
Posts: 645
RE: Clean that Throttle Body!!!
ORIGINAL: Doc Holiday
Wow, I absolutely cannot understand what you are trying to say here. First of all, since you agree that the hose is connected to the intake AFTER the MAF, how the hell can it be "metered"? Second of all, if you disconnect the intake tube while the car is running, you will have no air flow being drawn past the MAF anymore, which will stall you engine! Your technique sounds more like cleaning a carburator while the car is running. Please think about what you are saying BEFORE posting an arguement, K?
Third, the hose is connected to the valve cover and then to the intake tube (again...AFTER the MAF sensor) and serves to VENT the crankcase of excess pressures. This is a positive pressure that feeds the intake (AFTER the MAF) and into the throttle body. This carries an oily vapor from the crankcase and WILL foul up your throttlebody AND intake runners more than usual with a larger diameter hose (unfiltered).
The rubber hose that comes with the aftermarket intakes (like the JLTII) is about $2 at a parts store. Try using a see-through filter and see how much crap is going past your TB, into your intake, and into the combustion chamber.
ORIGINAL: takotruckin
the carbon is normal, it happens to ALL cars. a bg fuel induction service works wonders on anything with over 15k miles. it is not from the pcv system. that tube on the intake actually allows air INTO the engine, and it is after the MAF, so that it is metered. it goes through the engine to the other valve cover thru the pcv valve and into the intake manifold after the throttle body. a filter on that hose will accomplish nothing, other than just looking goofy. the correct way to use the throttle body cleaner is to remove the intake tube, and with the engine running, spray it into the throttle body. this way you are also cleaning the intake manifold and even heads/valves. you may have to use short bursts to avoid from killing the engine.
ORIGINAL: Doc Holiday
, as the rubber hose supplied is a larger inner diameter than stock, which allows more un-metered air into the engine. The venturi effect from the air rushing through the intake literally sucks air from the crankcase, through the pcv hose and into your intake (past the MAF) without the ECU ever seeing the extra air. This can cause a slight lean condition, or hesitation problems, or fuel trim issues as well.
, as the rubber hose supplied is a larger inner diameter than stock, which allows more un-metered air into the engine. The venturi effect from the air rushing through the intake literally sucks air from the crankcase, through the pcv hose and into your intake (past the MAF) without the ECU ever seeing the extra air. This can cause a slight lean condition, or hesitation problems, or fuel trim issues as well.
Wow, I absolutely cannot understand what you are trying to say here. First of all, since you agree that the hose is connected to the intake AFTER the MAF, how the hell can it be "metered"? Second of all, if you disconnect the intake tube while the car is running, you will have no air flow being drawn past the MAF anymore, which will stall you engine! Your technique sounds more like cleaning a carburator while the car is running. Please think about what you are saying BEFORE posting an arguement, K?
Third, the hose is connected to the valve cover and then to the intake tube (again...AFTER the MAF sensor) and serves to VENT the crankcase of excess pressures. This is a positive pressure that feeds the intake (AFTER the MAF) and into the throttle body. This carries an oily vapor from the crankcase and WILL foul up your throttlebody AND intake runners more than usual with a larger diameter hose (unfiltered).
The rubber hose that comes with the aftermarket intakes (like the JLTII) is about $2 at a parts store. Try using a see-through filter and see how much crap is going past your TB, into your intake, and into the combustion chamber.
I agree Doc.
The hose going from the passenger side valve cover is after the MAF (toward the engine). This is the air intake for crankcase ventilation and also serves as a pressure relief in the crankcase at WOT. Which, by the way if your PVCshould fail, crankcase pressure will build up forcing oil out through the passenger side hose and straight into the throttle body. This design is to make absolutely sure that oil and/or oil vapor will never be expelled into the environment
N/Aengines, at our horse power, may not have to be too concerned. But the fellows thathave high horsepower and/or F/I engines should be concerned due to excessive crankcase pressure build up. This is were a vacuum pump would come in handy. Not having a vacuum pump is robbing potential horse power.
http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/vacuum-pumps.html
I use a slip on air breather on the Passenger side valve cover.
This is all pretty well covered in the Ford Mustang Service Manual. They even have a cute little picture showing the air flow path.
