Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
10-23-2007, 05:20 PM
#51
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tempe, Arizona
Posts: 790
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
ORIGINAL: AmericanMuscle4.6GT
i was under the impression that powershifting meant "shifting under power".........that is, just kicking the clutch and shifting super fast without lifting the throttle.
sorry, but especially on these cars, you can't shift at WOT without the clutch. the engine/tranny just moves around too much.
i got a 13.50 @ 105.65 with just a CAI/tune. im close
i was under the impression that powershifting meant "shifting under power".........that is, just kicking the clutch and shifting super fast without lifting the throttle.
sorry, but especially on these cars, you can't shift at WOT without the clutch. the engine/tranny just moves around too much.
i got a 13.50 @ 105.65 with just a CAI/tune. im close
10-23-2007, 05:54 PM
#52
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
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Posts: 3,758
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
A couple of points that seemed off:
1) Keep your front tire pressure at normal driving levels. Having it too low will increase drag, while too high will put extra force down on the middle patch of rubber, but won't actually bow up the sides, so you end up with:
a)the same amount of surface area touching the ground,
b)added force on the center patch of rubber, and
c)the infinitesimally small chance of a blowout because the tire heats up and expands under friction, and you are going over 100mph.
I might add that when the tire acts in a pulling motion, as on a fwd vehicle, the friction pattern will be difference than a pushing motion like on our cars.
2) Experienced drivers should feather the clutch a little. Although the potential benefit is minimal when limited by traction, the ideal launch slips the clutch so that:
a)the engine remains at the rpm of peak torque, and
b)the rear axle receives as smooth as possible transfer of weight, and
c)the tires remain at the threshhold of static friction at all times, without slipping.
The quicker you dump the clutch, the greater the impulse force applied by the rubber to the ground. To demonstrate, push your palms flat together forcefully and slowly try harder and harder to slide them up and down. Now clap them together as you try to slide them up/down. Imagine one hand is a tire and the other is the pavement for both exercises.
Unfortuneately, this type of launch takes more skill than I or most any other can master, so it might not show forth the benefits it ideally has.
3) Do a small burnout to clean debris off of your tires, as they should be plenty warm from a previous run. Trying to forcefully warm them up will "bead" little ***** of rubber on the surface that prevent a full contact patch between tire and pavement.
4) Make sure to have no less than 1/8 tank of gas when you run. Although unclear at exactly what point it happens, having too little gas sends a message to the computer to cut timing in case of air bubbles or inadequate fuel pressure. Let's just say that running my car on the dyno with cool-downs in between produced the same numbers (+/- 1rwhp/1rwtq) three times in a row with 1/16 tank. I added 5 gallons of the same fuel as was already in use, and picked up 4.5rwhp/6rwtq. Anything above ~1/8 tank is added weight as stated.
1) Keep your front tire pressure at normal driving levels. Having it too low will increase drag, while too high will put extra force down on the middle patch of rubber, but won't actually bow up the sides, so you end up with:
a)the same amount of surface area touching the ground,
b)added force on the center patch of rubber, and
c)the infinitesimally small chance of a blowout because the tire heats up and expands under friction, and you are going over 100mph.
I might add that when the tire acts in a pulling motion, as on a fwd vehicle, the friction pattern will be difference than a pushing motion like on our cars.
2) Experienced drivers should feather the clutch a little. Although the potential benefit is minimal when limited by traction, the ideal launch slips the clutch so that:
a)the engine remains at the rpm of peak torque, and
b)the rear axle receives as smooth as possible transfer of weight, and
c)the tires remain at the threshhold of static friction at all times, without slipping.
The quicker you dump the clutch, the greater the impulse force applied by the rubber to the ground. To demonstrate, push your palms flat together forcefully and slowly try harder and harder to slide them up and down. Now clap them together as you try to slide them up/down. Imagine one hand is a tire and the other is the pavement for both exercises.
Unfortuneately, this type of launch takes more skill than I or most any other can master, so it might not show forth the benefits it ideally has.
3) Do a small burnout to clean debris off of your tires, as they should be plenty warm from a previous run. Trying to forcefully warm them up will "bead" little ***** of rubber on the surface that prevent a full contact patch between tire and pavement.
4) Make sure to have no less than 1/8 tank of gas when you run. Although unclear at exactly what point it happens, having too little gas sends a message to the computer to cut timing in case of air bubbles or inadequate fuel pressure. Let's just say that running my car on the dyno with cool-downs in between produced the same numbers (+/- 1rwhp/1rwtq) three times in a row with 1/16 tank. I added 5 gallons of the same fuel as was already in use, and picked up 4.5rwhp/6rwtq. Anything above ~1/8 tank is added weight as stated.
10-23-2007, 06:39 PM
#53
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location:
Posts: 3,758
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
A couple of items to address:
1) Adding octane booster will not help your stock car. Run 91oct pump gas if you want, but the car is designed to work just as well with regular gas.
2) Powershifting will noticeably improve your ET and trap speed in most cases. It's not hard to grasp the concept that more time spent in gear accelerating and less time spent in neutral not accelerating will result in a faster car. Yes, it can be harmful to the:
a)motor if you over-rev, though the stock limiter will save you,
b)transmission synchros by forcing them to allign, and
c)rear end because of the greater impulse force applied to mechanical components.
3) You should finish in 3rd gear in a manual (max speed 109mph at 6250rpm).
4) These motors like to rev. Don't short-shift. Shift at red line.
1) Adding octane booster will not help your stock car. Run 91oct pump gas if you want, but the car is designed to work just as well with regular gas.
2) Powershifting will noticeably improve your ET and trap speed in most cases. It's not hard to grasp the concept that more time spent in gear accelerating and less time spent in neutral not accelerating will result in a faster car. Yes, it can be harmful to the:
a)motor if you over-rev, though the stock limiter will save you,
b)transmission synchros by forcing them to allign, and
c)rear end because of the greater impulse force applied to mechanical components.
3) You should finish in 3rd gear in a manual (max speed 109mph at 6250rpm).
4) These motors like to rev. Don't short-shift. Shift at red line.
10-23-2007, 07:55 PM
#54
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,138
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
ORIGINAL: bodyputtyless
Correction;
The GT stock convertible is faster in the 1/4 mile then the stock GT coupe. Reason: Extra weight is right where it needs to be, over the rear axle area.
As they say "you can look it up".
Also, I agree that a qualified driver can overcome time through a manual gear box, I'll wageran automatic will consistently out run a unskilled manual driver everytime. (BTW this is the catagory most fall into)
The stock GM Corvette convertible costs $64,000. It has a 350 V8 that produces 400 hp. The GT Convertible Mustang costs $32,000. It has a 281 V8 that produces 300 hp and is 4 tenths slower in the qtr mile. Again, a qualified driver can make up the 4 tenths a lot of the time.
Correction;
The GT stock convertible is faster in the 1/4 mile then the stock GT coupe. Reason: Extra weight is right where it needs to be, over the rear axle area.
As they say "you can look it up".
Also, I agree that a qualified driver can overcome time through a manual gear box, I'll wageran automatic will consistently out run a unskilled manual driver everytime. (BTW this is the catagory most fall into)
The stock GM Corvette convertible costs $64,000. It has a 350 V8 that produces 400 hp. The GT Convertible Mustang costs $32,000. It has a 281 V8 that produces 300 hp and is 4 tenths slower in the qtr mile. Again, a qualified driver can make up the 4 tenths a lot of the time.
Doesn't sound quite right.
It will probably have better traction/less wheel spin starting out, but it still needs to over-compensate for the added weight during acceleration, which would make it slower.
From what I looked up online, Motor Trend road tested an '05 coupe and an '05 convertible. They ran the coupe at 13.5 @ 103.6 and the convertible at 13.8 @ 100.9 in the 1/4 mile.
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/...ang_specs.html
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/...ecs_price.html
10-23-2007, 08:05 PM
#55
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
Don't worry about it. You and I are almost the same height and weight. I'm 5'11"-6' and weigh anywhere between 140 and 145. Yes i'm am what I would consider cut, but I see myself as too skinny obviously. I'd rather be to skinny than to fat any day though. I'm also 34 years old and everyone keeps telling me it will catch up with my some day. I drink probably 5 cokes a day to boot. A day at work for me is probably the equivalent of an aerobic workout so that probably doesn't hurt. Stay skinny brother.
ORIGINAL: imyy4u
first off, for the haters, yes it IS possible (although very rare) to have less than 2% body fat. this was measured by hydrostatic weighing where they submerge your whole body in water on a special scale and calculate from there - it is accurate to within one hundredth of 1 percent - not like those skin calipers which can be off by a few percentages. is it unhealthy to have that litte fat? you bet! am i unhealthy for having that little fat? you bet! do i care? hell no! haha although i am trying to gain some more body fat - i can eat and eat and eat and not gain a pound...hmm...
haha as for pics of me, im too shy to post them :-)
as for what track i run at, i ran this at chicagoland speedway in joliet, il.
first off, for the haters, yes it IS possible (although very rare) to have less than 2% body fat. this was measured by hydrostatic weighing where they submerge your whole body in water on a special scale and calculate from there - it is accurate to within one hundredth of 1 percent - not like those skin calipers which can be off by a few percentages. is it unhealthy to have that litte fat? you bet! am i unhealthy for having that little fat? you bet! do i care? hell no! haha although i am trying to gain some more body fat - i can eat and eat and eat and not gain a pound...hmm...
haha as for pics of me, im too shy to post them :-)
as for what track i run at, i ran this at chicagoland speedway in joliet, il.
10-23-2007, 08:08 PM
#56
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
I'm talking about using the clutch and not releasing the gas between shifts.
ORIGINAL: imyy4u
powershifting basically means shifting without using the clutch...just slamming the car from one gear to the next. very very bad for the transmission, but great for times in the 1/4 mile. i don't recommend it unless you know what you're doing, and even then, it will destroy your trans.
powershifting basically means shifting without using the clutch...just slamming the car from one gear to the next. very very bad for the transmission, but great for times in the 1/4 mile. i don't recommend it unless you know what you're doing, and even then, it will destroy your trans.
10-23-2007, 08:11 PM
#57
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,527
RE: Why I can get a 13.4 in the 1/4 while 100% stock and you can't...(Stock Drag Racing Tips)
I am also about 6'0 and weigh about 160 lbs. I eat like there's no tomorrow and have been told since I was 13 that my 'metobalism would catch up with me' but it never has and doubt it ever will.
When I used to work out, I have to consume 12000 calories per day to gain 2 lbs of muscle per week. Actually it was a PIA and I spent way too much money on supplements so I stopped caring about being 'buff'. (being married helped there too...lol)
Yes, my wife hates my metabolism...lol
When I used to work out, I have to consume 12000 calories per day to gain 2 lbs of muscle per week. Actually it was a PIA and I spent way too much money on supplements so I stopped caring about being 'buff'. (being married helped there too...lol)
Yes, my wife hates my metabolism...lol
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