Suspension: coupe vs. convertible
I'm looking for suspension parts and have come across "does not fit convertibles."
I found this during a google search on the 2005 vert:
"softer springs, reducing the rates by 9 percent front and 14 percent rear. The anti-roll bars are a smidge skinnier at both ends, and the front struts and rear shocks have been revalved to match the revised springing. The intent of these revisions was to reduce the shock loads going into the topless chassis, to help minimize body quivers. But a side effect is a handling package that actually performs better than the coupe...there are times when the GT coupe can be herded into occasional episodes of rear-wheel hop. But the convertible's beautifully damped suspension makes this a nonissue."
I am basing my decisions on the coupe. Am I asking for trouble if I upgrade the vert suspension?
I found this during a google search on the 2005 vert:
"softer springs, reducing the rates by 9 percent front and 14 percent rear. The anti-roll bars are a smidge skinnier at both ends, and the front struts and rear shocks have been revalved to match the revised springing. The intent of these revisions was to reduce the shock loads going into the topless chassis, to help minimize body quivers. But a side effect is a handling package that actually performs better than the coupe...there are times when the GT coupe can be herded into occasional episodes of rear-wheel hop. But the convertible's beautifully damped suspension makes this a nonissue."
I am basing my decisions on the coupe. Am I asking for trouble if I upgrade the vert suspension?
Eventually, a little of everything.
A performance shop will do installs, so I'm looking at items such as LCA's and a K-member brace to add while they have my car (switchig to 4.10's.)
A performance shop will do installs, so I'm looking at items such as LCA's and a K-member brace to add while they have my car (switchig to 4.10's.)
I'll start out with the LCA's and K-Member brace like I planned.
The person who does the install might also have some suggestions.
I'll be sure to take a picture while it is up on lifts for future reference.
The person who does the install might also have some suggestions.
I'll be sure to take a picture while it is up on lifts for future reference.
Very smart thread here...
Vert handling performance is often overlooked.
If it was me, after all those mods, I definitly weld subframe connectors under the body for stiffening. I'll even do this on a high horse power coupe (500+rwhp).
Road racing fans will chime in with more input I'm sure...
Vert handling performance is often overlooked.
If it was me, after all those mods, I definitly weld subframe connectors under the body for stiffening. I'll even do this on a high horse power coupe (500+rwhp).
Road racing fans will chime in with more input I'm sure...
Now, see, why do I think I have subframe connectors already?
For example, this Steeda product does not fit:
http://www.steeda.com/products/three..._box_brace.php
Also this:
Fits 2005-Current S197 Mustang GT and Shelby GT500 except Convertible.
# Fits the 2005-Current Ford Mustang GT and GT500 (Coupe Only) with the 8.8 rear axle
# Triangulates the rear axle, preventing bending and twisting during high power launches
# The brace is integrated into the differential cover for added strength with a removable plate for easy access to differential and ring & pinion without removal of brace
# Integrated tie-down points provide a convenient location for trailer tie-down
# Bolt in design requires only two 3/8" holes to be drilled, no welding or fabricating required (Certain vehicles may require 2 additional holes to be drilled)
# Clears stock and aftermarket exhaust systems without modification
Installation Note: Convertible models require removal of stock subframe connectors
Help!
For example, this Steeda product does not fit:
http://www.steeda.com/products/three..._box_brace.php
Also this:
Fits 2005-Current S197 Mustang GT and Shelby GT500 except Convertible.
# Fits the 2005-Current Ford Mustang GT and GT500 (Coupe Only) with the 8.8 rear axle
# Triangulates the rear axle, preventing bending and twisting during high power launches
# The brace is integrated into the differential cover for added strength with a removable plate for easy access to differential and ring & pinion without removal of brace
# Integrated tie-down points provide a convenient location for trailer tie-down
# Bolt in design requires only two 3/8" holes to be drilled, no welding or fabricating required (Certain vehicles may require 2 additional holes to be drilled)
# Clears stock and aftermarket exhaust systems without modification
Installation Note: Convertible models require removal of stock subframe connectors
Help!
If you are looking for handling, the K-member and LCA's are not where you want to go. Those are not really handling items, but more drag race items. You want to look toward dampers, bars and springs. No, you won't hae trouble with these things, they are simply softer on a convertible because they are worried about ride and structure. But these are quite stiff cars, so far beyond the older cars that flex is really not a concern if you stay reasonable on spring rates and shock damping. Of course you can go overboard.
I have no idea if you are looking to lower the car or not. By far the two most important are the dampers and the swaybars. You can use any number of aftermarket bars (adding a little to a lot)or even coupe bars to add a little more roll stiffness. But the dampers are the key. Most folks looking for "handling" want the car be more composed, track better, generate roll and pitch slower, and feel less floaty. These things are controlled by dampers, and have the side benefit of making the car change direction better and track better as well.
I have no idea if you are looking to lower the car or not. By far the two most important are the dampers and the swaybars. You can use any number of aftermarket bars (adding a little to a lot)or even coupe bars to add a little more roll stiffness. But the dampers are the key. Most folks looking for "handling" want the car be more composed, track better, generate roll and pitch slower, and feel less floaty. These things are controlled by dampers, and have the side benefit of making the car change direction better and track better as well.
Very few people race Verts (is it allowed in the US?) therefore they're not gonna make a part that won't sell.
That's why it says "will not fit convertibles", because they're different from the coupe. Not 100% sure, but I think your car has thicker innerrocker panels as well as torq boxes, again for stiffeness.
You would have less leg room in most cases.
As far as subframe connectors, it appears you have them from the factory. Didn't know that.
That would explain why the Mustang Vert is the strongest/safest in its class.
I wish I could help you more...[8D]
That's why it says "will not fit convertibles", because they're different from the coupe. Not 100% sure, but I think your car has thicker innerrocker panels as well as torq boxes, again for stiffeness.
You would have less leg room in most cases.
As far as subframe connectors, it appears you have them from the factory. Didn't know that.
That would explain why the Mustang Vert is the strongest/safest in its class.
I wish I could help you more...[8D]
I put roush rear springs & a spohn rear sway bar & it corners much better. I see new dampers in my future to go with them. One side note is it may be the cold but I think it hooked up beter before I made these changes. I ran a 13.4 with no track experience my first time there, now on the street I keep breaking the back end loose. I ordered some LCA relocation brackets which may cure the problem, I think its the angle of the LCA's since lowering.


