For those with the Hurst rattle...
#1
For those with the Hurst rattle...
OK, so a few weeks after I installed my Hurst, it started rattling above 3k RPM. It was quite obnoxious, to say the least. I drove it like that for a while to see if I could just live with it. Turns out, I couldn't. So, I re-installed my stock shifter after much heartache.
I was going to get it replaced, but after reading MANY other complaints about having them rattle, I thought how upset I would be if the second one rattled too - not to mention all the time I would spend under the car, instead of in the driver's seat. So finally I decided I would tear into the shifter and see if I could fix it, and man am I glad I did.
So, for those of you with the dreaded Hurst rattle...here is how to fix it. (I think you can do this with it in the car, but I had mine on the table in front of me. If you do it in the car, you will have to remove the nut that holds the shifter linkage to the Hurst shifter lever (13mm). That should give you enough play. You will also have to remove the dust boot to get access to the meat of the shifter.)
Now, before you go through all this trouble and then blame me when this doesn't work for you, verify that you have the same problem that I had. If you remove the shifter boot and the dust boot, you can see the shifter assembly. Pull up/down on the shifter arm - if there is play vertically (and you should be able to hear it), then you need to inspect further. There will be a very slight amount of play in the spherical bushing, but what you need to check for is play between the bushing's collar and the snap ring. If you have a little bit of play there, that is most likely what is causing your rattle.
Once you've got access to the shifter, you'll notice the spherical bearing/bushing assembly is held in with a snap ring - go ahead and remove that. If you've removed the shifter linkage, you should be able to pull up on the shifter handle andthe bushing and collar will slide out of the shifter assembly. (Don't worry, they are connected and WILL NOT fall under the car. ) Now it's time to make a custom "bushing" to sit under the collar. Any thin plastic will work (as long as it's not too thick, obviously - a couple thousandths will do) - for example, the plastic packaging my snap ring pliers came in was a perfect fit. Cut out a circle 1 1/4". Now cut out the middle of the circle, leaving about 1/8" of plastic. Now simply cut the ring so you can get it around the shifter arm and your "bushing" is done.
Carefully slide the new bushing around the shifter arm UNDER the collar and push it down into the shifter assembly, insuring that it sits on the little ledge that the collar rests up against. (There will be some overlap in your new bushing - that's OK) Now slide the shifter back down into the assembly and re-install the snap ring. If the snap ring is a tight fit (I.e. you have to push down on it to get it to snap into place) you did it right. Re-install the dust boot, shifter boot, and the shifter linkage and nut (with loctite). Now your ready to test it out!
Because nothing rubs the new bushing, and no dirt or moisture can get to it, it should last the life of the car.
If anyone gives this a try, please post how it worked for you - I would love to know that I helped someone else like their Hurst again. If you think this is the stupidest thing you've ever heard, I can understand that, too. But my Hurst doesn't rattle any more.
I was going to get it replaced, but after reading MANY other complaints about having them rattle, I thought how upset I would be if the second one rattled too - not to mention all the time I would spend under the car, instead of in the driver's seat. So finally I decided I would tear into the shifter and see if I could fix it, and man am I glad I did.
So, for those of you with the dreaded Hurst rattle...here is how to fix it. (I think you can do this with it in the car, but I had mine on the table in front of me. If you do it in the car, you will have to remove the nut that holds the shifter linkage to the Hurst shifter lever (13mm). That should give you enough play. You will also have to remove the dust boot to get access to the meat of the shifter.)
Now, before you go through all this trouble and then blame me when this doesn't work for you, verify that you have the same problem that I had. If you remove the shifter boot and the dust boot, you can see the shifter assembly. Pull up/down on the shifter arm - if there is play vertically (and you should be able to hear it), then you need to inspect further. There will be a very slight amount of play in the spherical bushing, but what you need to check for is play between the bushing's collar and the snap ring. If you have a little bit of play there, that is most likely what is causing your rattle.
Once you've got access to the shifter, you'll notice the spherical bearing/bushing assembly is held in with a snap ring - go ahead and remove that. If you've removed the shifter linkage, you should be able to pull up on the shifter handle andthe bushing and collar will slide out of the shifter assembly. (Don't worry, they are connected and WILL NOT fall under the car. ) Now it's time to make a custom "bushing" to sit under the collar. Any thin plastic will work (as long as it's not too thick, obviously - a couple thousandths will do) - for example, the plastic packaging my snap ring pliers came in was a perfect fit. Cut out a circle 1 1/4". Now cut out the middle of the circle, leaving about 1/8" of plastic. Now simply cut the ring so you can get it around the shifter arm and your "bushing" is done.
Carefully slide the new bushing around the shifter arm UNDER the collar and push it down into the shifter assembly, insuring that it sits on the little ledge that the collar rests up against. (There will be some overlap in your new bushing - that's OK) Now slide the shifter back down into the assembly and re-install the snap ring. If the snap ring is a tight fit (I.e. you have to push down on it to get it to snap into place) you did it right. Re-install the dust boot, shifter boot, and the shifter linkage and nut (with loctite). Now your ready to test it out!
Because nothing rubs the new bushing, and no dirt or moisture can get to it, it should last the life of the car.
If anyone gives this a try, please post how it worked for you - I would love to know that I helped someone else like their Hurst again. If you think this is the stupidest thing you've ever heard, I can understand that, too. But my Hurst doesn't rattle any more.
#2
RE: For those with the Hurst rattle...
Sounds like a great fix if it lasts.
The vertical play is exactly what I kept telling people was wrong with the Hurst. I couldn't convince Brenspeed that they were selling defective shifters, so I gave up on Hurst and got my Tri-ax....quality out of the box!!!
Great post, man!
The vertical play is exactly what I kept telling people was wrong with the Hurst. I couldn't convince Brenspeed that they were selling defective shifters, so I gave up on Hurst and got my Tri-ax....quality out of the box!!!
Great post, man!
#3
RE: For those with the Hurst rattle...
Mine rattles bad and it is sooo friggen annoying. I was about to get the dealership to fix it as they put it in. Looks like my car is going to be in pieces again this weekend...
WHY NO PICS THOUGH??
WHY NO PICS THOUGH??
#4
RE: For those with the Hurst rattle...
I regret that I didn't take some good pics. However, I did all this at my parent's house - and my camera was at home. If you have any questions, ask away. I'll try to help if I can.
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TCStangerv6
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08-30-2015 09:01 PM