Allstar

^^ i'd liek to ask why they should be a last resort.. i see plenty of people use them, even at the drag strip with ZERO problems even when there pushing crazy HP

jerseyblood

I only need them because the big break kit on the fronts may hit my new wheels that are coming in. The measurements are exactly on so if they hit I only need like an eith inch. Problem is I need them by Tues and cant find anyone locally. I tried Baer because they are in Phx but they are out....

jerseyblood

Just ordered 5mm H/R from Mossmustangs. Thanks...

thewarmachine

I have my spacers for looks. IMO the 50mm offset of the 18x8.5 bullitts is too much.

My spacer kit came with the longer studs. It was very very easy to install. Didn't even need to take brakes off.

157dB

What brand didyou go with?
Purchased from where for how much?
Thickness of said spacer you used?
Method of pressing out the old studs and
installing the new studs without removing brakes?
Tire size yous gots on them there 18x8.5 50mm rim?
Pics from the rear and front showing how it looks?
Thanks....

[IMG]local://upfiles/69445/A871C58C6BE64C78A07E20959AC6604E.jpg[/IMG]

thewarmachine

Hahaha! Ok...ok....

www.mustangwheelspacers.com I got the 5/8 inch kit for about $270

I sprayed plenty of WD-40 on the base of the old studs and just used a hammer and a punch to knock them out throught the hole in the back of the brake bracket....just takes 3 or 4 good taps to get one out, then you rotate the hub to align the hole with the next stud and tap that one out...and so on. You do not need the stud removal tool they provide. If you do use it, you will have to remove the rotor.

To install the new studs, spray a good amount of WD-40 onto the new stud, place in the hole and feel the grooves lock, then screw on the big nut they give you to seat the new studs. As you tighten the big nut, the new stud slides into the grooves and is seated. You then remove the big nut and move on to the next one. You may want to use a big washer between the nut and your rotor so the nut doesn't dig into the rotor while you're turning it. To keep the hub from turning while you're seating the new studs, just slide a screwdriver into the rotor so that it is kept from moving by the the calipers.

Be very careful not to break or bend the little ABS sensor. Some people put all their studs in before seating them and then when they start to seat them, the loose hanging studs catch the sensor and break it or bend it. Just do one stud at a time, and it's fine.

Also, be careful not to drop a stud behind the caliper because it's a little painful to get out. You have to slide a screwdriver in there and maneuver it out.

I have 255/45/18 tires on my 18x8.5 rims.

157dB

OK, thats mean enough to warrant spacers.

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=61&viewfile...el%20Studs.pdf

Thanks for the info and pics.

FyouGitive

Looks good.

I guess 5/8" spacers are about 15 mm? Have you any idea how much more spacer you could use without interfering with the fenders, or looking goofy? How much depth is left in the standard lugnuts? Can you get "open" lughnuts in case you have to mount some wheels without the spacers?

What do you reckon are the advantages of replacing the studs over the bolt-on pre-studded spacers? Do you think I ask too many questions?

thewarmachine

I don't know how much of a spacer the stock studs could handle.....probably not much.
I'm sure you can get open lug nuts...if you wanted some for some reason.
I think 5/8 is too thin to have a pre-studded spacer.
TacoBill has a buddy (Leo, I think) who has one-inch spacers on his car...pre-studded.