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Stripped Wheel Stud

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Old 09-10-2008, 04:36 PM
  #1  
BWfVA
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Default Stripped Wheel Stud

Ok so the other day I screwed up and I didnt start the Lugnuts with my had but rather the impact and now I am payin for it. I stripped the end of the wheel stud. Anyways, does anybody have a digram of how the brakes and things bolt on and all the drab. Anyone know how much work is involved. I know it will be alot to change the stud but I have explored all my options and that seems to be the only one that I have
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Old 09-10-2008, 05:08 PM
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loots06
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Front or back, its really pretty simple. align the wheel to where you an opening past the calipers and hammer it out. It should come out pretty easy. I'd run over to the stealership and pick up a wheel stud first should run you about 3 bucks. I know this happened to me.
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Old 09-10-2008, 05:20 PM
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firestang70
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OK.... First Ford will charge you over $20 for a factory wheel stud. Simple job that can take a while, is it on the front or rear? The front is easier. If doing the rear make sure the stripped stud is at the around 4 oclock position (will tell you why later).
Keep car in gear, turn on ebrake.
Break the lugs loose.
Jack the rear of the car up and use a jack stand on the axle.
Remove lug nuts.
There should be two bolts holding the caliper on, remove those.
Use a hanger or other homemade deal to hang the caliper and not pull on the brake lines.
I use a vice grip on the edge of the stud (a bigger target!) and tap with a rubber mallet (this should help loosen the rotor assembly).
When you have tapped the stud out of its mounted position, remove the rotor.
You will now see the axle ends etc. There is hole around the 4 oclock position where you can pull the stud out (you may want to mark from the beginning. If not then(like I said for the rear only) you will have to jack up the other rear side of the car, take it out gear to rotate the hub until the stripped stud is lined up.
Pull the stud out.
Place the new stud in tap until seated in.
Now many people do it differently but...
I use some washers on the stud, get the lugnut on the stud to pull it in.
Take the lugnut and washers off.
Place the rotor on.
Line the caliper up and tighten the 2 bolts back.
Place wheel back on and place lugnuts back on.
Lower the car and torque the lugnuts.( you should mark the new stud and lugnut and tq it down very well).
Drive the car a short distance and retq the lugnuts.
If its on the front much easier since you can spin the rotor wherever to get the stud out.
Good luck hope this helps. I may have forgot something but it is pretty straight forward.
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Old 09-10-2008, 05:36 PM
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thewarmachine
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It's so simple to fix that if you have a new stud.

I replaced all my studs when installing my wheel spacers.

Take off wheel.
Spray base of stud with WD-40.
Hammer out bad stud. (Just takes a few taps)
Spray WD-40 onto new stud.
Put new stud in from behind hub and hold with your hand.
You'll need to put several washers or a thick bushing onto the outside of the stud now so that you can screw on your lugnut and make the new stud seat into place.
To keep the hub from turning, stick a screwdriver into the slotted part on the round end of the rotor and let it bind against the caliper.
After the stud is seated, remove the lugnut and washers/bushing.
Install wheel.
Done!
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Old 09-11-2008, 10:53 PM
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BWfVA
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Alright well thanks, I will give it a shot, that advice helps alot because, it is a back stud and I couldnt seem to find that slot at 4oclock. Anyways I will get on that tommorrow since I have nothing else to do
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Old 09-11-2008, 11:56 PM
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Stoenr
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Or run it with a thread chaser if its only the tip...............
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:00 AM
  #7  
157dB
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[QUOTE=firestang70;5434751]

Now many people do it differently but...
I use some washers on the stud, get the lugnut on the stud to pull it in.
QUOTE]

Ford advises against this method as the stud could rotate while it is
being pulled in and make the hole for the stud bigger ruining the hub
assembly.

Friggin impact wrenches.
Were you playing NASCAR or
had somewhere to be real quick?
If you HAVE to use an impact for
whatever reason, its a good idea
to start the nut by hand to insure
proper thread engagement before
hitting it with the (yuk) impact gun.
Even then the nuts need to be torqued
to the proper specs. So W H Y ?


REAR WHEEL STUDS

FRONT WHEEL STUDS

Last edited by 157dB; 09-12-2008 at 10:22 PM.
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Old 09-12-2008, 07:30 PM
  #8  
ShawnAlexander
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Does anyone make longer and stonger studs for both front and rear for the S197? ARP? Moroso?
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:14 PM
  #9  
thewarmachine
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I bought mine from www.mustangwheelspacers.com but it was a total package including the spacers.
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