control arm relocation? drag set up?
09-30-2008, 09:28 AM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 416
control arm relocation? drag set up?
I am looking to turn my car into a bracket car and im doing sum research as far as suspension goes. Im wondering are the relocation brackets not very sturdy? they look kind of flimsy and it seems like hard launches would really affect them, and if im getting an adjustable third link do i really need those or if i got both would it really change the bite of the tires? becasue they would both change the angle of the pinion drastically upon launch...am i right?
09-30-2008, 10:22 AM
#2
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: East Moline, IL
Posts: 1,852
The relocation brackets need to be welded in a few spots, else they will buckle during hard launches. But tack them on with a few spots of weld and they'll work very well. If you're wanting the best launches, then I would get both, and everything in rod ends if you really want to get serious.
09-30-2008, 01:32 PM
#3
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: N/A
Posts: 2,690
I use the BMR relocation brackets and have no problem. I use LCA's with hyme joints on one end and bushings on the other.
BMR says you only need to weld the relocation brackets if you have better then a 1.7 sec 60'.
BMR says you only need to weld the relocation brackets if you have better then a 1.7 sec 60'.
09-30-2008, 03:44 PM
#7
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: N/A
Posts: 2,690
Well that sounds like a simple question but it really isn't. I have LCA's with a solid end link or hyme joint on one side and bushings on the other end. They are adjustable as is the Upper control arm on my car.
I have the hyme joints on one side because I was spitting out bushings after hard launches. Remember, I'm launching a 700rwhp car on the wood. I kept the bushings in one side because you need to have some where for all that energy to go. You don't want to make it so stiff you start tearing something else up!
I am running BMR relocation brackets and although they may appear to be flimsy they are quite sturdy when you look at them. I have never seen any one with a proper suspension set up bend one as was mentioned before. Not saying it isn't possible, I just haven't seen it. However, If you need to weld those you better weld the tubes on the rear end also!
I am running Tokico D-spec shocks in the rear with Eibach springs. I have Qa-1 coil overs in the front. The rear shocks are set to firm. If you don't have good shocks and springs in the rear it wont matter how good you hook the car. You'll unload all the power 15' down the track when the suspension gets done squatting. The springs and struts in the front are just as important. If you bounce the front end you'll loose energy the same way.
I also have a BMR extreme roll control bar and steeda tourque box braces. Remember if you start hooking the car hard your going to be transfering that energy somewhere. The bushings help absorb some of it. However, look for other parts that could be weak the rear end is full of connections that are.....well not as solid as they should be.
Here's what it looks like when you get it working right!
I'm not saying this is the only way to do it. There are plenty of combinations out there and you need to find out what works for you at your power level and the way you drive.
Ooh and forgive the music...they had a DJ at the track that night.
I'll be so happy when my rollcage is done and I can run at the 1/4 mile track again!!!
I have the hyme joints on one side because I was spitting out bushings after hard launches. Remember, I'm launching a 700rwhp car on the wood. I kept the bushings in one side because you need to have some where for all that energy to go. You don't want to make it so stiff you start tearing something else up!
I am running BMR relocation brackets and although they may appear to be flimsy they are quite sturdy when you look at them. I have never seen any one with a proper suspension set up bend one as was mentioned before. Not saying it isn't possible, I just haven't seen it. However, If you need to weld those you better weld the tubes on the rear end also!
I am running Tokico D-spec shocks in the rear with Eibach springs. I have Qa-1 coil overs in the front. The rear shocks are set to firm. If you don't have good shocks and springs in the rear it wont matter how good you hook the car. You'll unload all the power 15' down the track when the suspension gets done squatting. The springs and struts in the front are just as important. If you bounce the front end you'll loose energy the same way.
I also have a BMR extreme roll control bar and steeda tourque box braces. Remember if you start hooking the car hard your going to be transfering that energy somewhere. The bushings help absorb some of it. However, look for other parts that could be weak the rear end is full of connections that are.....well not as solid as they should be.
Here's what it looks like when you get it working right!
I'm not saying this is the only way to do it. There are plenty of combinations out there and you need to find out what works for you at your power level and the way you drive.
Ooh and forgive the music...they had a DJ at the track that night.
I'll be so happy when my rollcage is done and I can run at the 1/4 mile track again!!!
09-30-2008, 03:54 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 416
i love your car man...thanks for the pics...but do you have like a full view of the rear...Im a little confused on like the swaybar or whatever is there insteat of the swaybar...im new to the suspension thing..
