Jacking the front end..
S197 Section Modder-ator
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 13,373
From: Orlando FL
You could use the middle of the Xmember as you point of contact...
Problem is for most of us with lowered cars, you don't have a lot of room to go up and down with the jack handle, since the jack is so deep under the car.
The manual shows where to jack the car from anyway.
Right behind the front wheel, at the end of the Xmember.
Problem is for most of us with lowered cars, you don't have a lot of room to go up and down with the jack handle, since the jack is so deep under the car.
The manual shows where to jack the car from anyway.
Right behind the front wheel, at the end of the Xmember.
Cut & Paste Expert
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 13,322
From: NW Arkansas
Dont be lazy, do it one side at a time.
Its not NASCAR here. Safety first.
I use the hole in the sub frame.
I removed the platten from the floor jack and
replaced it with a turned aluminum piece that fits
into the stud mount on the jack and fits into
the hole on the subframe. I have a thick
rubber pad on top of the aluminum piece.
No slipping or scratching.
Mucho better than the pinch weld method.
Its not NASCAR here. Safety first.
I use the hole in the sub frame.
I removed the platten from the floor jack and
replaced it with a turned aluminum piece that fits
into the stud mount on the jack and fits into
the hole on the subframe. I have a thick
rubber pad on top of the aluminum piece.
No slipping or scratching.
Mucho better than the pinch weld method.
Last edited by 157dB; Dec 29, 2008 at 09:52 AM.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 201
From:
Dont be lazy, do it one side at a time.
Its not NASCAR here. Safety first.
I use the hole in the sub frame.
I removed the platten from the floor jack and
replaced it with a turned aluminum piece that fits
into the stud mount on the jack and fits into
the hole on the subframe. I have a thick
rubber pad on top of the aluminum piece.
No slipping or scratching.
Mucho better than the pinch weld method.
Its not NASCAR here. Safety first.
I use the hole in the sub frame.
I removed the platten from the floor jack and
replaced it with a turned aluminum piece that fits
into the stud mount on the jack and fits into
the hole on the subframe. I have a thick
rubber pad on top of the aluminum piece.
No slipping or scratching.
Mucho better than the pinch weld method.
S197 Section Modder-ator
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 13,373
From: Orlando FL
This actually is the best spot.
I wish the factory had a reinforced spot under the rockers, in the middle of the door.
Like the race cars have.
I meant to do that on mine, just didn't get around it yet...
I wish the factory had a reinforced spot under the rockers, in the middle of the door.
Like the race cars have.
I meant to do that on mine, just didn't get around it yet...
Last edited by pascal; Oct 4, 2009 at 06:59 PM.
Cut & Paste Expert
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 13,322
From: NW Arkansas
Those welds look like caulking, not welds with
any type of penetration into the base metal.
Nice idea but a no go on the execution of the plan.
Last edited by 157dB; Dec 27, 2008 at 12:56 PM.
S197 Section Modder-ator
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 13,373
From: Orlando FL
Thread Starter
6th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 6,193
From: Montaner
The easiest way to get the car up would seem to be to howarmat's illustrated method. My car isn't lowered so I should easily have enough room to pump the jack up.
One concern. My jack doesn't have any rubber piece on the cup. Is metal to metal contact there a no-no?
One concern. My jack doesn't have any rubber piece on the cup. Is metal to metal contact there a no-no?