Jacking the front end..
12-27-2008, 11:28 AM
#11
S197 Section Modder-ator
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Orlando FL
Posts: 13,373
You could use the middle of the Xmember as you point of contact...
Problem is for most of us with lowered cars, you don't have a lot of room to go up and down with the jack handle, since the jack is so deep under the car.
The manual shows where to jack the car from anyway.
Right behind the front wheel, at the end of the Xmember.
Problem is for most of us with lowered cars, you don't have a lot of room to go up and down with the jack handle, since the jack is so deep under the car.
The manual shows where to jack the car from anyway.
Right behind the front wheel, at the end of the Xmember.
12-27-2008, 11:59 AM
#12
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
Dont be lazy, do it one side at a time.
Its not NASCAR here. Safety first.
I use the hole in the sub frame.
I removed the platten from the floor jack and
replaced it with a turned aluminum piece that fits
into the stud mount on the jack and fits into
the hole on the subframe. I have a thick
rubber pad on top of the aluminum piece.
No slipping or scratching.
Mucho better than the pinch weld method.
Its not NASCAR here. Safety first.
I use the hole in the sub frame.
I removed the platten from the floor jack and
replaced it with a turned aluminum piece that fits
into the stud mount on the jack and fits into
the hole on the subframe. I have a thick
rubber pad on top of the aluminum piece.
No slipping or scratching.
Mucho better than the pinch weld method.
Last edited by 157dB; 12-29-2008 at 09:52 AM.
12-27-2008, 12:13 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location:
Posts: 201
Dont be lazy, do it one side at a time.
Its not NASCAR here. Safety first.
I use the hole in the sub frame.
I removed the platten from the floor jack and
replaced it with a turned aluminum piece that fits
into the stud mount on the jack and fits into
the hole on the subframe. I have a thick
rubber pad on top of the aluminum piece.
No slipping or scratching.
Mucho better than the pinch weld method.
Its not NASCAR here. Safety first.
I use the hole in the sub frame.
I removed the platten from the floor jack and
replaced it with a turned aluminum piece that fits
into the stud mount on the jack and fits into
the hole on the subframe. I have a thick
rubber pad on top of the aluminum piece.
No slipping or scratching.
Mucho better than the pinch weld method.
12-27-2008, 12:18 PM
#14
S197 Section Modder-ator
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Orlando FL
Posts: 13,373
This actually is the best spot.
I wish the factory had a reinforced spot under the rockers, in the middle of the door.
Like the race cars have.
I meant to do that on mine, just didn't get around it yet...
I wish the factory had a reinforced spot under the rockers, in the middle of the door.
Like the race cars have.
I meant to do that on mine, just didn't get around it yet...
Last edited by pascal; 10-04-2009 at 06:59 PM.
12-27-2008, 12:27 PM
#15
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
Those welds look like caulking, not welds with
any type of penetration into the base metal.
Nice idea but a no go on the execution of the plan.
Last edited by 157dB; 12-27-2008 at 12:56 PM.
12-27-2008, 01:07 PM
#17
S197 Section Modder-ator
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Orlando FL
Posts: 13,373
12-27-2008, 04:11 PM
#20
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montaner
Posts: 6,193
The easiest way to get the car up would seem to be to howarmat's illustrated method. My car isn't lowered so I should easily have enough room to pump the jack up.
One concern. My jack doesn't have any rubber piece on the cup. Is metal to metal contact there a no-no?
One concern. My jack doesn't have any rubber piece on the cup. Is metal to metal contact there a no-no?