Lower and upper control arms?
If you get adjustable LCAs you wouldn't need an adjustable UCA, one or the other. All of my parts are by BMR and the LCA is the tubular adjustable one (poly/rod). I am very happy with them and recommend them to anyone looking for a set. As far as the relocation bracket, you can just use the bolts but if you are into hardcore drag racing you should get them welded.
I got the Billet lowers and adj. upper... and my relo brackets are made of 1/4'' steel and are super sturdy so i did not weld them in... i have seen they get it done due 2 bending the pieces but w/ the metco design i dont see any way they would flex...
im not putting anywhere near the amount of hp to the ground that would require the relo brackets to be welded. However the steeda reloc brackets that i bought said to they must be welded, so i got it done.
Well, you dont have to get them welded, but its suggested. Especially if your launching the car.
OT, but, what happens if you get non adj lca's and reloc brackets and no adj uca? car is lowered..
OT, but, what happens if you get non adj lca's and reloc brackets and no adj uca? car is lowered..
The relocation brackets would help to parallel the LCAs but you wouldn't have a way to correct the pinion angle. My guess would be premature wear on the differential (gears and such), suspension joints and a noisy rear end.
Last edited by degeze; Apr 17, 2009 at 08:39 AM.
I can't understand why someone would go with two adjustable lower control arms, when you can go with one adjustable upper one. Why would you want to have to worry about setting them the same. Plus once the upper one is adjusted, even if it is a pain, it's not something I'll be doing regularly.
I got the boxed steel solid lower control arms from BMR with poly bushings, they look great and took care of all my wheel hop.
I got the boxed steel solid lower control arms from BMR with poly bushings, they look great and took care of all my wheel hop.


