I agree that slipping the clutch leads to early failure. This is true in both stock and FI applications.

As you point out hooking up with sticky tires and burnouts make a difference. But those are factors in stock cars too, not just FI. Although FI provides greater HP and more opportunity to slip the clutch.

However, my point was that they say (in the link) the stock clutch is good for 535 HP (more than the stock engine), which made me wonder why some FI people are reporting early failure with theirs. The information in the link posted made no reference to slipping the clutch, doing burnouts or using other than stock tires with their HP rating, it was simply "535 HP max rating". That's why I wondered if the failures are due more to people slipping the clutch, rather than simply saying the stock clutch is the weak link and can't handle SC type HP. I think it is important to differentiate between the two.

 

My exp....the stock internals with the rods being the weakest link is about 450 RWHP. Some run more and others less. Same for the clutch....mine is slipping a bit and should hold out as long as I need as long as I dont abuse it too much and I dont mean "abuse" by merely going fast. Dropping the clutch, side stepping, and burnouts in 2nd, can and will contribute to the stock clutch failing. Using DR's or slicks on any application can and will decrease the life of the drivetrain -it then becomes a matter of when it will happen as opposed to how much will it take to break or need to be replaced.

T/S S/C's IMO are harder on the motor and the drivetrain in general due to instant TQ and a flat TQ curve.

Centri's on the other hand have a curved TQ line and as boost builds with RPM rise the HP/TQ curves will grow and IMO is not a hard on the motor or the drivetrain.

If looking for max HP on "stock" anything please take into consideration that the motor/clutch/trans, and DS/rear diff will be taking the abuse of the HP and can shorten the life of the parts mentioned above regardless if your N/A or have FI. Any part or modification that increases HP/TQ will take its toll on the motor/drivetrain and will shorten the life of said parts........some sooner and others later....it depends on too many factors and no cars were created equally even if they are rated the same and made in the same plant. This is why some stock stangs have 260 RWHP from the factory and other times they have 275 RWHP from the factory with all parts being "equal".

again this is JMO!

 

what if you just want to put 125 shot of Nitrous in your ride? ? talkin about any upgrades what so ever?

 

125 shot can and will decrease the life of the stock motor...plain and simple...tune is everything and the fuel system needs to be working correctly with no hiccups when increasing HP/TQ

 

lets just say hypathetically i wanted to put a 100 shot in my bullitt..what would the list of things i would need for a complete system? or do they come with complete systems and how much?..i guess i can look too but input from you guys would be nice

 

For a complete system you'll need:

- Basic nitrous kit from any manufacturer. These are all wet kits with wide open throttle switches included.
- 100 hp jetting (some kits have it, others don't. Cheap parts, though)
- A tune. The higher the shot, the more timing needs to be pulled.
- One step colder spark plugs. (75 shot and less can use stock plugs)
- Bottle heater (keeps up pressure)
- Nitrous Pressure Gauge since pressure is critical.
- A fuel pressure gauge is a good idea, but not 100% necessary IMHO.
- Fuel Pressure Safety Switch (I believe Zex integrates theirs)
- RPM Window Switch for safety (NOS kits includes it in the basic kit)
- Remote bottle opener. Optional, but you can't leave the bottle open all the time, which means a lot of going back to the trunk if you want to use the system.
- Purge. For a harder hit on the bottle and for purging down if the pressure is too high.
- Blow down tube for the track and general safety.
- Basic tools, like a wire crimper, tons of wire, basic electrical components (crimps, fuses, etc.), teflon paste for sealing joints, etc.

Cost? I can't remember how much I've spent, but here's a guess...

1) Basic Kit ~ $600
2) Heater ~ $100
3) Fuel Pressure Safety Switch ~ $20
4) Remote Opener ~ $350
5) Blow Down Tube ~ $20
6) Nitrous Pressure Gauge ~ $200
7) Nitrous Tune ~ $50
8) Fuel Pressure Safety Switch ~ $20
9) Purge ~ $100
10) Window Switch ~ $100

That's right around $1,500 or so. I didn't include the cost of materials, like gauge pods, various carbide bits I needed to mount things in the engine bay.

 

450RWHP seems to be the rule of thumb.

 

Very interesting read. Love how the stock exhaust system is good up to 810 HP with no gains or losses seen. Says to me it's very efficient right from the factory.

It seems according to the KB testing, you really should save your money on LT headers, X-pipes, etc. and not replace them.

 

Keep in mind these are tests with superchargers. Its been documented you can get gains with headers in naturally aspirated S197's.

 

I spoke to JDM about this when getting my SC. He stated 450 is the max he would push out on stock internals. Now keep in mind, that people do push out more, but the question is not how much they push out, its how long the engine will last :P

After a certain amount, you should just forge the internals. As mentioned from JDM that would cost around $11,000 or so including install and make the block a 293 (I believe) instead of a 281, plus all the other things that need to be upgraded :P

Come to think of it...its also about the tune as well. Cause you could be pushing so much power and detonate till the cows come home, or never detonate at all :P

...or this can happen...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zySLiOdxZCs