I did the cheapest mode ever... there is a long thread in this forum..

I straighten the throttle whiskers in the pedal assembly, there is 0 lag. (it used to be abt 1/2 inch press before the engine would respond).

 

I saw it with my own two eyes.
Pics are for photoshoppers.
The 4-40 adjustable screw works like a charm
along with the simple 30 second throttle pedal
calibration procedure.
Search DIY Throttle Pedal mod.

https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...-must-see.html

 

Thank you 157DB, Lifter583, and others I am defiantly experiencing the throttle lag, imo the worst thing about it is the inconsistency between the throttle lag, Fly by Wire(er drive), and the hydraulic clutch; all combine to make a "different" or inconsistent start(in my experience).

I just read over a couple(theres like 50 lol) of the thread that 157DB posted, and I think I'm going to go with your idea instead of messing with those tiny wires, etc. In the mean time, I am going to do the calibrator reset that y'all posted and will post my results later on.

Also, I have a new 08' 5-spd GT that just ticked over 2k miles...I want to disconnect the battary for 20min so that the car will "unlearn" my driving habits. I have been babyin' it all 2012 miles of its life....break-in period, and it feels like I'm "hurting" it when I get on it...haven't even been past 5500rpms....Anyways, I want to reset the learning, can I just unhook the battery for ~20mins? Will there be any problems with doing this?

Thanks guys for all the help

 

Dude...you need to chill. If you jacked your pumpkin more often you probably wouldn't be so uptight. I was just funnin' (Arkansas speak) with Lifter583 to get him to post some pics because I too have been thinking about doing this mod.

 

Its not a dead zone, its the time it takes for the car to realize the clutch is out and the pedal is on the floor. Takes a second to react then it takes off. Im pretty sure if i reved higher before launching it wouldnt be so bad, but it seems so much easier on the car to floor right after the clutch is engaged.

 

Be sure to have the doors closed and all accessories turned off before lifting the battery cable and try not to "disturb" the car for those 20 minutes. All should be fine when you reconnect. On occasion, I've experienced a little rough or odd engine operating characteristics while it relearns but that only persists for a short # of miles. Some have had their windows go out of calibration (and other little nuisances) but that's minor and the Owners Manual can help with that and other minor low battery/battery disconnect related issues.

 

The other postive thing about spacer application, the travel (at the bottom) of the thottle pedal is cut down. Mine is 5/8" less from idle position to WOT. Faster on the gas when shifting!

Hicompression, I did see if I could get a pic...LOL
but said ..screw it LOL

 

So could you shorten the pedal travel a few inches then let the computer relearn the beginning and end and just have less travel all together?? Not sure what kinda advantage that would give, just thinking out loud i guess?

 

Perhaps within some limits you'd be able to. But I would expect the PCM to have max/min voltages for the endpoints outside of which it will assume that the pedal electronics have resistance that's either too high or too low - and throw a code.

Maybe one of these

P0220 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0221 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0222 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Low Input
P0223 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit High Input
P0224 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Intermittent
P0225 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Malfunction
P0226 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0227 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Low Input
P0228 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit High Input
P0229 Throttle/Petal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Intermittent


Norm

 

The calibration is just to compensate for manufacturing tolerances
of the resistive tracks that the wipers wipe over.
Most electrical components have a tolerance range expressed in
a % of the marked value. Most resistors are +/- 5-10% of their marked value.
The same is true for a drive by wire pedal assembly made as cheap
as Ford could have it made for them.
There is a range that it can calibrate within and anything out of that range
throws a code as does malfunctions and intermittent operation.