Aftermarket sub wiring?
#1
Aftermarket sub wiring?
I know theres a thread on this somewhere so feel free to link me...
Does the factory head unit have a sub out line?
I want to take the sub out of my accord but it has an aftermarket headunit with a sub out and remote on/off thing. What will i need to wire it into my foctory (non shaker) headunit?
Does the factory head unit have a sub out line?
I want to take the sub out of my accord but it has an aftermarket headunit with a sub out and remote on/off thing. What will i need to wire it into my foctory (non shaker) headunit?
#3
The basic radio has no sub output.
No low level outputs whats so ever.
There is also no external amplifer turn on
lead on the basic S197 radio.
You can jet and get a speaker to line level
converter and wire it to the two rear deck
speakers and send the low level RCA signals
to the Honda subamp inputs at the local
car stereo shops and wally world in some cases.
(I am guessing the Honda Sub has a built in amlifier)??
Just not enough info on what you have and what
you want to do with it.....
Its like trying to match an audio component
thats been manufactured to Fords specs and
not EIA specs to another audio component
manufactured to Hondas specs and not EIA specs.
Why are we trying to do this? The troubles outweigh
the results. Honda subs are not worth the time IMHO.
Here is the converter you need.
JL also makes a really nice StealthBox with a 13.5" W6 woofer
that fits like a glove unlike that Honda Sub.
No low level outputs whats so ever.
There is also no external amplifer turn on
lead on the basic S197 radio.
You can jet and get a speaker to line level
converter and wire it to the two rear deck
speakers and send the low level RCA signals
to the Honda subamp inputs at the local
car stereo shops and wally world in some cases.
(I am guessing the Honda Sub has a built in amlifier)??
Just not enough info on what you have and what
you want to do with it.....
Its like trying to match an audio component
thats been manufactured to Fords specs and
not EIA specs to another audio component
manufactured to Hondas specs and not EIA specs.
Why are we trying to do this? The troubles outweigh
the results. Honda subs are not worth the time IMHO.
Here is the converter you need.
JL also makes a really nice StealthBox with a 13.5" W6 woofer
that fits like a glove unlike that Honda Sub.
Last edited by 157dB; 06-06-2009 at 09:39 AM.
#4
157 had alot of good points. Really need to know what the amp / sub is in the Honda. Is it factory of aftermarket. If its factory just save up some money and put together your own setup for the stang. If its aftermarket, what brand and model is the amp. Thats very important cause it may very well have high level inputs. But like 157 said, without just blanketing you with all the info there is to know about car stereo, we need to know what exactly it is that you have, before we can give you any specifics on what to do. Anything else and were just guessing.
#5
its a kicker 750.1 amp and a 12" DVC L7 sub.
I know how to wire it to an aftermarket headunit just fine im just not sure about the oem mustang one. I read i need a line out converter and i can splice into the rear speakers somehow. but i also need a place to run the remote on/off dont i?
also anyone found a good place to run a power wire through the firewall?
I know how to wire it to an aftermarket headunit just fine im just not sure about the oem mustang one. I read i need a line out converter and i can splice into the rear speakers somehow. but i also need a place to run the remote on/off dont i?
also anyone found a good place to run a power wire through the firewall?
#6
Ya run the power wire through the passenger side fender. I ran mine underneath the battery through a hole on the inner fender then through a big grommet into the car. For the remote turn on wire just find a ignition turn on wire in the fuse box.
#7
What brand would you guys recommend? Ill order one tonight if i know what to get. Also will using a loc sound the same as if it were a sub output?
Is there anything cheaper then the jl cleansweep i can use that will still be good? I plan on getting a headunit but not for a while and i have some speakers in my room i just need an amp for.
Last edited by Shadow7874; 06-06-2009 at 02:03 PM.
#8
Rubber gromet in the firewall on the passengers side under the battery.
Is there anything cheaper then the jl cleansweep i can use that will still be good? I plan on getting a headunit but not for a while and i have some speakers in my room i just need an amp for.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136CLRL...ll=N&search=jl
Last edited by 157dB; 06-06-2009 at 03:05 PM.
#9
Rubber gromet in the firewall on the passengers side under the battery.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136CLR2...?o=p&search=jl
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136CLRL...ll=N&search=jl
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136CLR2...?o=p&search=jl
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136CLRL...ll=N&search=jl
#10
just looking around at that amp you got. The 750.1 has a few features you should pay attention to:
Speaker-level inputs compatible (switchable) through RCA connection
Automatic turn on modes: remote, DC offset, or signal sense
So acctualy you dont need a converter and you dont need to run a remote turn on. Go to radio shack, spend about $2 on some rca connectors, (the heads you can build yourself,) splice off your rear speakers into the head of your new connectors, flip the switch on the amp to high level, switch the remote turn on to signal sense, and call it a day.
Gonna cost you less then $5 to do the whole thing, assuming you have the wire laying around, or are taking from old car.
Speaker-level inputs compatible (switchable) through RCA connection
Automatic turn on modes: remote, DC offset, or signal sense
So acctualy you dont need a converter and you dont need to run a remote turn on. Go to radio shack, spend about $2 on some rca connectors, (the heads you can build yourself,) splice off your rear speakers into the head of your new connectors, flip the switch on the amp to high level, switch the remote turn on to signal sense, and call it a day.
Gonna cost you less then $5 to do the whole thing, assuming you have the wire laying around, or are taking from old car.
Last edited by JDWalton; 06-07-2009 at 03:55 PM.