Goldenpony

I also use AMSOIL & EA filter. Great choice.

Rubrignitz

If a band-wrench won't get it off then somebody installed it way too tight. I only HAND tighten my filters. I torque them up as much as possible by hand, which is more than sufficient. I use a band-wrench to get them back off. You shouldn't need more than that.

And I only drive her up on ramps to change the oil... no need to jack it up.

Apoptosis

I don't have any ramps, so, jacks it is.

How many miles do y'all put on your car before you change? Nuke mentioned something like 10k?

@Rub: I haven't tried to get it off yet, I'm going to attempt that in a few hours.
Hopefully it comes off pretty easy, the wrench was only like $5 at autozone, so shouldn't be too bad.

Goldenpony

If you use dino oil, you should probably change it every 3K miles. When I used Mobil 1, I went 5K miles. Since I have gone to AMSOIL, I am going to go 10K miles.

Nuke

I've always stuck with 3,000 miles for dino and 8,000-10,000 miles for full synthetic.I use M1 in my tow vehicle (SUV) and change it at about 8,000 miles. The Stang has Amsoil so I change it at the 8K-10K frequency, depending on time and how hard I've driven her. I'm sure that I'd go longer on full syn IF I did oil analysis.

My g/f's V6 pony has the Motorcraft blend in it and we're doing her oil changes at 5,000-7,000 mile intervals.

D'prived

I use Mobile 1 and change the oil and filter every 6,000 miles.

SixN2

If you need an oil filter wrench to get your filter off then you overtightened it. Next time around clean the seal surface on the block, put a thin layer of engine oil on the filter seal, spin the filter on by hand until you feel the seal make contact with the block then give the filter a quarter turn.

Apoptosis

@Six: First time I'm changing it myself.

Sweet, I guess double the miles on my oil was worth the small extra cost over the crappy oil I had it in the last time.

SixN2

My statement wasn't aimed at anybody in particular, it was just a general FYI.

157dB

Wrench?
Use a screwdriver and drive it into the filter from the side
with a hammer. Let the residual oit drain from the holes
and turn the offending filter off with using the screwdriver
for leverage.
Oil filter wrench, just one less tool I need to own...

Going on is easy with a film of fresh oil on the rubber
gasket and spin it on as tight as you can get it by hand.
The body of the filter should rest on the engine block
effectivly trapping the rubber gasket into the properly
sized gasket area on the filter and its sealed until removed.
Any tighter and you are not doing yourself any good...
Be sure that the old rubber gasket comes off of the engine
block and clean the sealing surface before installing the
new filter. Also a couple of Rare-Earth Neodymium-Iron-Boron
(NdFeB) Disc Magnets from Hobby Lobby JB welded to the
side of the filter effectivly traps fine metal particals the filter
might otherwise pass thru.