Oil change AFTER break-in mileage
#12
So I decided to change my oil at the halfway point for recommended service (3250 miles). I actually did it at something like 3238, but who's really counting... Anyhoo, here's what I found (4.6L V8):
First, the 12000 GVW Rhino Ramps that I have for my Explorer will NOT work with the front fascia/air dam of the Mustang GT (stock ride height). It looked like the lower fascia would scrape going up the ramps, and possibly rip off coming down the ramps. I didn't want to test my luck by placing a 2x6 in front of them, either, so I ended up jacking the car at the jack points, and using regular jack stands/wheel chocks/parking brake.
The drain plug is on the back of the oil pan and takes a 5/8" socket. The factory drain oil was still in remarkably good shape: light in color, semi-transparent, with no contaminants or shavings noted.
The factory filter, however, was a pain in the &%^$ to get off. I had to CRANK on this thing to get it to come off. You'll need to use a band-style filter wrench (mid-to-large size) to get it off, as the pliers-style wrench was ineffective, and the cap-style kind that fits over the end of the filter and attaches to a 3/8" drive ratchet isn't going to fit in the space you have to work with (actually it will, but the ratchet itself won't). In any case, by the time the original filter came off, the canister was DESTROYED.
As for the louvred under-engine cover (GTs only, from what I understand), there's 4 small bolts you'll need to remove (2 at the rear of the cover, and 2 on the front of the cover, that go through 'tabs' which slip behind the air dam plastic--which you don't need to remove). These bolts take a 7/32" socket or nut driver to remove.
To make things easy, I went out to Sears and got a nifty little slim-toolbox case thingey for $5. Since I have different collection of tools for oil changes (separate from my larger ratchet set), I just put the ones I need in that box, store it in the trunk, and they're ready-to-go, kept with the car the next time I need to change my oil (see pictures). I have a similar case for my Explorer. Some call it obsessive. I call it being an engineer.
@grettann: To make sure I didn't cause any warranty issues, I replaced the filter with a brand new OEM spec Motorcraft FL820S, and put in about 5.5 quarts (not counting the filter pre-fill) of Motorcraft 5W-20, which after an engine cycle, brought the dipstick level to the middle of the 'normal' range. I also lubed the gasket of the filter to make sure I didn't dislocate my shoulder trying to remove the damn thing again.
First, the 12000 GVW Rhino Ramps that I have for my Explorer will NOT work with the front fascia/air dam of the Mustang GT (stock ride height). It looked like the lower fascia would scrape going up the ramps, and possibly rip off coming down the ramps. I didn't want to test my luck by placing a 2x6 in front of them, either, so I ended up jacking the car at the jack points, and using regular jack stands/wheel chocks/parking brake.
The drain plug is on the back of the oil pan and takes a 5/8" socket. The factory drain oil was still in remarkably good shape: light in color, semi-transparent, with no contaminants or shavings noted.
The factory filter, however, was a pain in the &%^$ to get off. I had to CRANK on this thing to get it to come off. You'll need to use a band-style filter wrench (mid-to-large size) to get it off, as the pliers-style wrench was ineffective, and the cap-style kind that fits over the end of the filter and attaches to a 3/8" drive ratchet isn't going to fit in the space you have to work with (actually it will, but the ratchet itself won't). In any case, by the time the original filter came off, the canister was DESTROYED.
As for the louvred under-engine cover (GTs only, from what I understand), there's 4 small bolts you'll need to remove (2 at the rear of the cover, and 2 on the front of the cover, that go through 'tabs' which slip behind the air dam plastic--which you don't need to remove). These bolts take a 7/32" socket or nut driver to remove.
To make things easy, I went out to Sears and got a nifty little slim-toolbox case thingey for $5. Since I have different collection of tools for oil changes (separate from my larger ratchet set), I just put the ones I need in that box, store it in the trunk, and they're ready-to-go, kept with the car the next time I need to change my oil (see pictures). I have a similar case for my Explorer. Some call it obsessive. I call it being an engineer.
@grettann: To make sure I didn't cause any warranty issues, I replaced the filter with a brand new OEM spec Motorcraft FL820S, and put in about 5.5 quarts (not counting the filter pre-fill) of Motorcraft 5W-20, which after an engine cycle, brought the dipstick level to the middle of the 'normal' range. I also lubed the gasket of the filter to make sure I didn't dislocate my shoulder trying to remove the damn thing again.
#13
if it gives you piece of mind go ahead and get the oil changed at the most its 34.99 if you have us do it for you and as someone who has done probably well over 50 first time oil changes i can agree that the filters put on by the factory are a total bitch to remove because they do not lube the gaskets on them.
and i belive you must be one of the few people out there to put 500 miles on their car within 48hrs of owning it lol
and i belive you must be one of the few people out there to put 500 miles on their car within 48hrs of owning it lol
#14
if it gives you piece of mind go ahead and get the oil changed at the most its 34.99 if you have us do it for you and as someone who has done probably well over 50 first time oil changes i can agree that the filters put on by the factory are a total bitch to remove because they do not lube the gaskets on them.
and i belive you must be one of the few people out there to put 500 miles on their car within 48hrs of owning it lol
and i belive you must be one of the few people out there to put 500 miles on their car within 48hrs of owning it lol
#16