"Break-in" Period
#11
I like Mobil 1 full syth, but any name brand full syth in the right oil weight should be fine, the only problem with motocraft branded oil is that its a blend, or it used to be, and atleast here in Germany its more expensive for me to get the motorcraft at the dealer (~85 euros just for the oil) when i can get a case of Mobil 1 for ~$25
just my 2 cents.
just my 2 cents.
#12
I like Mobil 1 full syth, but any name brand full syth in the right oil weight should be fine, the only problem with motocraft branded oil is that its a blend, or it used to be, and atleast here in Germany its more expensive for me to get the motorcraft at the dealer (~85 euros just for the oil) when i can get a case of Mobil 1 for ~$25
just my 2 cents.
just my 2 cents.
Hey dagamore how is your Stang holding up on the Autobahn over there? I remember those days fondly 73-76.
#13
I love the autobahn and the mustang will more then hold its own, its funny some of my german friends like to tease me because their M3/5's and AMG MB are faster then my mustang, but its all good if they have to spend 3x more to be a little bit faster, and i keep up with them on the Autobahn(they dont like to drive over 240kmph) i dont care.
#14
I've always used Mobil 1 full synthetic, but it is important to remember that a quality oil filter is just as important as the oil. I personally have stuck with Mobil 1 filters as they are easy to find for a reasonable price. I cringe every time I see someone slap a Fram pos on their engine.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/gene...at-to-buy.html
https://mustangforums.com/forum/gene...at-to-buy.html
#15
I like Mobil 1 full syth, but any name brand full syth in the right oil weight should be fine, the only problem with motocraft branded oil is that its a blend, or it used to be, and atleast here in Germany its more expensive for me to get the motorcraft at the dealer (~85 euros just for the oil) when i can get a case of Mobil 1 for ~$25
just my 2 cents.
just my 2 cents.
#16
I like Mobil 1 full syth, but any name brand full syth in the right oil weight should be fine, the only problem with motocraft branded oil is that its a blend, or it used to be, and atleast here in Germany its more expensive for me to get the motorcraft at the dealer (~85 euros just for the oil) when i can get a case of Mobil 1 for ~$25
just my 2 cents.
just my 2 cents.
Thanks for your input on what a "good oil" is deemed to be. I've used Mobil 1 Synthetic for years, but with a new ride, I want to make sure I'm up to date as to what's good and what isn't.
Also another good point was made that the oil filter is just as important. I owned a Mitsubishi 3000GT (a sweet ride in its own right) for years, and putting anything other than a factory OEM filter on it would cause noisy lifters. Ugh.
Cheers all.
#17
i would call a ford tech(not the mechanics at the stealerships) and find out if there is a "break in" i don't think there is. they run the engines before they even get in the cars. and i can guarantee that they guys that move them around in the parking lot while waiting for transport didn't baby them they probably beat on them. i think it should be called Driver break in when the driver feels comfortable with beating on it then its broken in.
#19
On the upside, that oil does come in 5-qt jugs for $16.99 at the AutoZone in my area, and the FL820S filter is $3.50. Neither were on sale at the time.
And for those who are interested, the Motorcraft FL820S filters appear to be from the Purolator family, which also includes Bosch, ProLine, and a few others. See http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html for more info.
#20
What I have always done is baby everything for the first 250 miles (brakes, engine, clutch etc) then after 250, run the engine hard, then after 500 change the oil to mobile one. Which then I feel everything is broken in, all the seals, the exhaust, the brakes, the clutch, and I drive normal. Which is semi sane, but a few runs here and there.