Welp, the tech system I normally use to get information like the plug type is down, so the best comparison I can give you is that it's like a plug inside your computer (if you have a desktop).

If you look at this picture:


The plugs you're going to find are kinda like #'s 2, 3, and 4 (but not as big). They are NOT the same plugs, so don't buy some of these cables thinking they're going to fit. They look pretty proprietary. I'll check tomorrow and see if the system is up, and try to get you something better.

As for the TP stuff, the short answer is that I don't know. But I LOVE to guess (if you've read some of my other posts, you know this), and if I had to guess, I'd think that the spoiler is removed for aerodynamic reasons (I hate to be the one to spoil it--pun fully intended--but the spoiler isn't needed to keep downforce on the rear wheels, and I'm not sure how effective it is at mitigating turbulent flow at the rear of the vehicle). It also adds weight to the car. The glass top? Also heavy, and would be reasonably subjected to stress and torsion. Shaker 1000 also adds some additional weight, and draws more from the electrical system. The track pack vehicles are designed to be minimally-appointed, big on power, light on weight. It was probably assumed among designers and engineers that these vehicles would be more for track use (hence the name) and less for cruising and daily driving (though that's not to say you can't--they're street legal). Nevertheless, they probably cut the 'nice to have' and replaced it with (as my friend Tim Allen likes to say) More Power! (well, okay, maybe not more power, but a different way of applying that power to the pavement).

 

Thanks for the answer!

Then let me guess, too.
I think the problem with the glass is the shock. Maybe because of harder suspension, the shocks are not equalized that well compared to the basic, so by having the glass roof it could lead to damages or shifts.

 

Well, tempered glass takes an awful lot of force to break (hitting it with a hammer doesn't always break it--you have to concentrate that force, say, with a center-punch to get the high PSI values needed to break it). Nevertheless, I'm not sure what the exact reasoning it. You could very well be right, or it could be weight, or some other thing. It's hard to say.

 

Hi FordEngineer,

My car has finally arrived!!!
I already put 1100 miles into it.

However I don't have problem with parking by now (at the beginning I had to learn where the right edge of the car is and how far I can go forward in a parking place without hitting shoulder of pavement ), I'm still considering to install a license plate (most probably a Boyo) that holds a rear view camera. Why not to have it, when I already have a mirror that is capable of showing rear view.

Do you happen to have the schematics of pins of rear view mirror molex since our last conversation?

BTW: THIS CAR IS A DREAM!

 

I can't provide schematics or technical documents, lest I get in a lot of trouble, but I can show you pictures of what they look like.

Attached, you can see 4 of the different connectors the system uses.

 

Hi falconium, Forgive my English.
I think you may be able to connect the camera to the rear view mirror. But you should find the correct cables which can be suitable for the interface. A full complete set parking sensor kits consist the rear view mirror(monior), control box, and the sensors (comes from 4-8), the back up camera, always the power cables.Somes come to a full set, all the kits are compatible. So we car owners always would like to buy a full set, only if some of the parts are unworkable.

It depends on what your rear view camera and the mirrors are. Usually the mirror has one power cable fitted for some dealers sold.