Headlight Switch Bulb
12-04-2010, 12:43 PM
#61
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 19
Ok...since Ford doesn't provide the bulb, I think I've found reasonable solutions for the headlight switch bulb.
Purchase this bulb/socket from autolumination http://autolumination.com/74.htm, half way down page titled "Neo-Wedge Tall Glass Instrument Panel Bulbs". $1.99ea for the Type B Tall sockets. Get the clear bulb. The colors us a rubber boot over the bulb which I have found is not very effective. (There are also LED's available using the same socket. They are more expensive and the amber LED I tested was not very bright. The LED's also will not disassemble easily. I broke one trying to get it apart. The standard bulbs dissasemble fine for bulb replacement.)
Although these sockets are shorter then the Ford socket, they are the same diameter and use the same twist latching hooks. They fit fine into the headlight assembly. You'll need to use a screwdriver to twist into place since these sockets do not have tabs on the bottom. One major bonus with these sockets is that they are hollow all the way through. This allows installation of an LED with a current limiting resistor. The standard socket has terminal wire guides that block the inner socket.
Once you have the bulb/socket in hand you have 3 choices:
(1) Install as-is. Although shorter the bulb will help illuminate the headlight switch. In my less than scientific testing it appeared about 25-50% dimmer than stock.
(2) Remove the bulb, straighten the leads, then reinstall higher in the socket. Instead of wrapping the wire leads all the way around the base just leave enough of the leads exposed to make contact during installation. Try to make the overall length the same as the stock bulb (about 30mm). This will extend the bulb further into the headlight switch assembly and improve brightness. The bulb will remain secure when twisted into the socket.
(3) Replace the bulb. It is noteworthy that the bulb that comes with the socket is actually LARGER than the 7219 bulb that has been recommended in this thread. The 7219 bulb is 3mm, the bulb installed in the socket is about 4mm, and the stock Ford bulb is 5mm. Therefore, if you want to use a standard bulb either use the 4mm bulb already installed--just mount it higher as described above--or purchase a 2174D bulb. The 2174D's are 5mm (T1-3/4) size with wire leads. The same as Ford stock bulbs. Although I could not test, the 2174D should provide the same or more brightness as stock. I found 2174D's here for $1.98 ea. http://www.topbulb.com/find/prod_lis...Category_E_727
Of course you can just buy the 2174D bulb and replace it into the stock, longer socket. However, most of us have noticed slight burning of the stock socket due to bulb heat. I actually prefer the idea of using a shorter socket and mouting the bulb higher away from the plastic. Your call.
Finally, you can install a 5mm LED in the new socket, in your choice of color. The hollow construction allows installation of a current limiting resistor into the socket. The LED's referenced above in the ebay link will work. I've also found prewired 12V 5mm LED's at some auto parts stores. Or build your own with a bare LED and resistor. Make the final length about 30mm. LED's are particular about polarity so you may need to turn the LED in the socket to make it work.
On a side note I haven't figured out the green light tubing in the switch. Clear bulbs illuminate green but the yellow LED I tried didn't really give off blue. (Yellow and green give blue, correct?). But the yellow LED wasn't very bright either. I'll probably try another yellow eventually but for now I'm using a blue LED that gives an aqua hue.
Best of luck!
Purchase this bulb/socket from autolumination http://autolumination.com/74.htm, half way down page titled "Neo-Wedge Tall Glass Instrument Panel Bulbs". $1.99ea for the Type B Tall sockets. Get the clear bulb. The colors us a rubber boot over the bulb which I have found is not very effective. (There are also LED's available using the same socket. They are more expensive and the amber LED I tested was not very bright. The LED's also will not disassemble easily. I broke one trying to get it apart. The standard bulbs dissasemble fine for bulb replacement.)
Although these sockets are shorter then the Ford socket, they are the same diameter and use the same twist latching hooks. They fit fine into the headlight assembly. You'll need to use a screwdriver to twist into place since these sockets do not have tabs on the bottom. One major bonus with these sockets is that they are hollow all the way through. This allows installation of an LED with a current limiting resistor. The standard socket has terminal wire guides that block the inner socket.
Once you have the bulb/socket in hand you have 3 choices:
(1) Install as-is. Although shorter the bulb will help illuminate the headlight switch. In my less than scientific testing it appeared about 25-50% dimmer than stock.
(2) Remove the bulb, straighten the leads, then reinstall higher in the socket. Instead of wrapping the wire leads all the way around the base just leave enough of the leads exposed to make contact during installation. Try to make the overall length the same as the stock bulb (about 30mm). This will extend the bulb further into the headlight switch assembly and improve brightness. The bulb will remain secure when twisted into the socket.
(3) Replace the bulb. It is noteworthy that the bulb that comes with the socket is actually LARGER than the 7219 bulb that has been recommended in this thread. The 7219 bulb is 3mm, the bulb installed in the socket is about 4mm, and the stock Ford bulb is 5mm. Therefore, if you want to use a standard bulb either use the 4mm bulb already installed--just mount it higher as described above--or purchase a 2174D bulb. The 2174D's are 5mm (T1-3/4) size with wire leads. The same as Ford stock bulbs. Although I could not test, the 2174D should provide the same or more brightness as stock. I found 2174D's here for $1.98 ea. http://www.topbulb.com/find/prod_lis...Category_E_727
Of course you can just buy the 2174D bulb and replace it into the stock, longer socket. However, most of us have noticed slight burning of the stock socket due to bulb heat. I actually prefer the idea of using a shorter socket and mouting the bulb higher away from the plastic. Your call.
Finally, you can install a 5mm LED in the new socket, in your choice of color. The hollow construction allows installation of a current limiting resistor into the socket. The LED's referenced above in the ebay link will work. I've also found prewired 12V 5mm LED's at some auto parts stores. Or build your own with a bare LED and resistor. Make the final length about 30mm. LED's are particular about polarity so you may need to turn the LED in the socket to make it work.
On a side note I haven't figured out the green light tubing in the switch. Clear bulbs illuminate green but the yellow LED I tried didn't really give off blue. (Yellow and green give blue, correct?). But the yellow LED wasn't very bright either. I'll probably try another yellow eventually but for now I'm using a blue LED that gives an aqua hue.
Best of luck!
Last edited by randy65; 12-04-2010 at 05:16 PM.
09-16-2011, 11:22 AM
#63
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: New York
Posts: 88
Hey all sorry for bringing an old thread back, but I feel this will help some people cause this looks like a common problem. Anyway my bulb burnt out on my headlight switch. So I went to ford and they said they do not sell the bulb by itself and that I would need to buy a new headlight switch for $90. I was like holy cow hell no. So I went online found this thread and found out that people made there own replacement bulb for $15 from radio shack or other electronic places, but it wasn't the same as OEM. Either it was too bright or to dim. So I thought about it and it hit me, I went to ebay found a V6 headlight switch with no fogs (Cause they are usually worthless and sellers prices them cheap, Got mine for $10). Got the switch took out the bulb and replaced it my current switch. Factory bulb for $10. Now what to do with this extra headlight switch. 
I got some pics for you also of the burnt bulb and where it's located.
I got some pics for you also of the burnt bulb and where it's located.
09-17-2011, 02:07 PM
#64
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
of the dash and 'push' the headlight switch out from behind.
No plastic tools involved.
Or reach up under the dash and 'push' it out.
Still no plastic tools needed...
Now if it just had a 'life left' indicator on it.
Thats a USED factory bulb for $10.....
Last edited by 157dB; 09-17-2011 at 02:10 PM.
09-27-2011, 04:13 PM
#66
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 1,249
01-19-2012, 01:44 PM
#67
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: WA
Posts: 16
I pulled my switch today and, sure enough, that little sucker is burned out. I quickly pried out the old bulb, installed an LED I had laying around, and it works...but there literally is no part number in existence for this bulb. If you don't want to deal with wiring in a new bulb, just order a new switch assembly, swap out the bulbs, and send it back stating you got the wrong part (which would be lying..so watch out for lightning bolts!).
05-23-2012, 06:57 AM
#68
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 3
I own a 2005 Ford Five Hundred with a burned out bulb on the headlight switch. I was doing some searching yesterday and stumbled across this thread. As you guys are aware, the headlight **** setup is the same on later model Mustangs. Anyways, I did some searching and found the following Neo Wedge bulb and socket...ACDelco 16206595...$6.13...http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-162065...7772624&sr=8-1
I'll let you guys know if this works or not when I finally get it...
I'll let you guys know if this works or not when I finally get it...
